Programming cable specifically for S-Drive controllers

[woodygb]

What makes you think that you can increase the speed and why do you need the industrial programming version....is the controller a SOLO ?

[Stan dup]

The controller i an S-Drive. I just presumed as it is limited to 6mph I could remove the limiter?
Its a 2012 TGA BREEZE S4 mobility scooter.

[woodygb]

The program speed limit is 100% .
So ... IF the speed is programmed @ less than 100% then YES just increase it...if it is already @ 100% then NO speed increase is available via the software.

Whilst the Industrial software version will program the S-Drive you should use the Mobility Software.

[Stan dup]

Thankyou for your time and the quick reply, I will check if it is at 100% speed limit on the Mobility software.
So how can u remove the speed limit? Will it have a potentiometer somewhere?

[woodygb]

I very much doubt ( I have never come across one ) that there is a physical immutable speed limit resistance in the circuit.

Have a look at the Tech Manual.

B.T.W ....The SPEED is a function of the voltage being applied to the motor/gearbox / wheels & this is ultimately limited by the voltage of the batteries .

NOTE:- The controller also has a built in voltage limit... So adding an extra 12v battery and increasing the available voltage to 36v ( actually it is more like 40v from 3 charged batteries ) may cause the controller to either complain OR it may let out all the " magic smoke ".

[woodygb]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magic_smoke

[Stan dup]

I understand.
I may have a go at unpacking the Software, to see if I can change the maximum parameters in the software, to 100%+.
Will let you know how I get on.

[Burgerman]

I understand

Obviously you didnt.

[Stan dup]

We ended up removing the speed limit, was just a case of removing the speed sensor near the rear right wheel. She moves now, not sure how fast as speedo doesn't work now.
Just have to worry about the heat now, gets warm.

Didn't want to mess around with more batteries unless we really have to. Otherwise we would have to redesign the kart to accommodate them.

Thanks for the help buddy.

[LeeRC]

Hello All
I am hoping I can get some help with my TGA Vita-X (Heartway S12X Monster) controller The S-Drive S200A . I bought the scooter in nearly new condition a couple years ago after the owner barely used it, but the thing was he had it programmed and dumbed down pretty bad. I have looked into creating the leads needed (thanks to this forum) but the software is impossible to get and a so called engineer said the charge just to come out would be £95 and the programming a further £500 but he seemed very shady.

I really want its response increased and perhaps get it back to factory settings and then set it up the way I want it. I am savvy with electronics so the lead shouldn't be a problem if pointed in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for any help if possible.

Cheers

Lee

[Burgerman]

Woody will be along in a minute...

[woodygb]

Woody will be along in a minute...

I am a few minutes late ...sorry!

[woodygb]

Hello All
I am hoping I can get some help with my TGA Vita-X (Heartway S12X Monster) controller The S-Drive S200A . I bought the scooter in nearly new condition a couple years ago after the owner barely used it, but the thing was he had it programmed and dumbed down pretty bad. I have looked into creating the leads needed (thanks to this forum) but the software is impossible to get and a so called engineer said the charge just to come out would be £95 and the programming a further £500 but he seemed very shady.

I really want its response increased and perhaps get it back to factory settings and then set it up the way I want it. I am savvy with electronics so the lead shouldn't be a problem if pointed in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for any help if possible.

Cheers

Lee

Here is a pic ...there are more scattered through out this thread...use the later ones... 2018 onwards.

Check your messages

[woodygb]

You can also use a cheap TTL-USB fake FTDI clone as the basis for the programming lead.

Using the same 47k resistor and Schottky diode as is shown in the previous pic .

[woodygb]

We ended up removing the speed limit, was just a case of removing the speed sensor near the rear right wheel. She moves now, not sure how fast as speedo doesn't work now.
Just have to worry about the heat now, gets warm.

Didn't want to mess around with more batteries unless we really have to. Otherwise we would have to redesign the kart to accommodate them.

Thanks for the help buddy.

Ah! ...So you retain the original tiller head ?

The speed sensor is not part of or connected to the S-Drive ... it is an addition made by the manufacturer .

I suspect that it is possible to either reprogram the board inside the tiller head or perhaps substitute a 8 mph sensor for the 6 mph.

[LeeRC]

Hello All
I am hoping I can get some help with my TGA Vita-X (Heartway S12X Monster) controller The S-Drive S200A . I bought the scooter in nearly new condition a couple years ago after the owner barely used it, but the thing was he had it programmed and dumbed down pretty bad. I have looked into creating the leads needed (thanks to this forum) but the software is impossible to get and a so called engineer said the charge just to come out would be £95 and the programming a further £500 but he seemed very shady.

I really want its response increased and perhaps get it back to factory settings and then set it up the way I want it. I am savvy with electronics so the lead shouldn't be a problem if pointed in the right direction.

Thanks in advance for any help if possible.

Cheers

Lee

Here is a pic ...there are more scattered through out this thread...use the later ones... 2018 onwards.

more plugs pgdt 2.jpg

Check your messages

That's the image I was planning of referencing and using to make up the cable.

Can't Thank You enough Woody, been looking how to do this for a very long time. Better get the cap and diode ordered now.

[woodygb]

Better get the cap and diode ordered now.

Ummm ...I think that you mean resistor not cap.

[Stan dup]

Ah! ...So you retain the original tiller head ?

Yes we have retained the tiller head and front board.

I suspect that it is possible to either reprogram the board inside the tiller head or perhaps substitute a 8 mph sensor for the 6 mph.

Looking at the wiring diagram there are two ports, Com 2 TTL, and Com 1 RS4B5.
I will try to reprogram through this socket.
Would i need a specific program?

[woodygb]

Ah! ...So you retain the original tiller head ?

Yes we have retained the tiller head and front board.

I suspect that it is possible to either reprogram the board inside the tiller head or perhaps substitute a 8 mph sensor for the 6 mph.

Looking at the wiring diagram there are two ports, Com 2 TTL, and Com 1 RS4B5.
I will try to reprogram through this socket.
Would i need a specific program?

I also suspect that the board can be re-programmed ... but I haven't a clue how you would go about it.

P.S. The RS4B5 is more than likely RS485 , a standard communication protocol.

TTL is Transistor ,Transistor , Logic.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RS-485

[Burgerman]

Yes we have retained the tiller head and front board.

Why?

[LeeRC]

Better get the cap and diode ordered now.

Ummm ...I think that you mean resistor not cap.

Oops.... had a few pages open and Caps were on it. I have the correct component Resistors now and waiting on the diodes. Can't make a choice on where to get the cable, prices are so erratic for it starting from £16 to £39 even though all of them are exact TTL-232R-3V3-WE. Unexpectedly the cheapest is on Amazon (UK)at only £16 and seems to be legit.

This is it --->>> TTL-232R-3V3-WE USB Cable

Would you see that as a decent price?

[woodygb]

Would you see that as a decent price?

Yes

[Galaxy2020]

We ended up removing the speed limit, was just a case of removing the speed sensor near the rear right wheel. She moves now, not sure how fast as speedo doesn't work now.
Just have to worry about the heat now, gets warm.

Didn't want to mess around with more batteries unless we really have to. Otherwise we would have to redesign the kart to accommodate them.

How munch faster u think it goes can you still slow it down ?
Thanks for the help buddy.

[agent86]

I have a Afikim S4 Mobility Scooter with S-Drive 140A controller.

Cable resistor and diode and cable
https://www.amazon.com.au/Converter-Str ... 523&sr=8-1

What is the difference between the mobility and industrial software, I understand the industrial does all parameters I couldn't easily find info on the mobility software but see it recommended? If someone could supply the software that would be great.

If I read correctly I can use the charge port and XLR plug for programming as long as I bridge pin 3 + 4 on the molex connector on the s-drive? Is that correct or do I need to connect direct to the molex connector to program? Just trying to make it easier to tweak the controller without having to remove the seat and covers each time.

Thank you very much for your time and knowledge.

[woodygb]

Hi,

Programming via the 3 pin charging port is normally possible.

The 140 Amp ( and other larger Amp ) S-Drives have been reported as impossible to communicate with the simple resistor / diode modification.

Kirk from this forum has provided me with a solution ...schematic below.

My layout below.....
This has been made from his schematic and tested.

NOTE:- The same USB Cable can be used for Comms ...but it needs the circuit above instead of just the Resistor and Diode.

[agent86]

Thanks for the fast response and help Woody particularly the extra circuit to program the 140A S-Drive. I assume the cheap serial FTDI chips just don't have enough current to power the programming interface. I assume given hand made circuit that no one was able to find a board or dongle commercially that had a higher output or if so too expensive?

Also I read a lot about cheap fake FTDI devices here and it seems Windows won't communicate with them with the driver as per https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FTDI

If I understand correctly FTDI released drivers that bricked the fake chips now they just make them not function.

I am assuming you need a genuine FTDI chip in cable or board or a non standard driver if not genuine. As this has been a moving target since 2014 and with the current chip shortage you have to assume you have a non genuine chip. Its not clear to me what driver is safe and reliable to use or where to get it from.

[woodygb]

It appears to be caused by a signal incompatibility problem ( non standard TX voltage being output) and nothing to do with the type of chip or cable used.

The OP Amp brings the transmitted TX signal to a compatible level for the RX of the USB - TTL UART to transfer over to the MOBILITY programming software.

Strangely this only seems to affect the larger Amperage S-Drives.

Note:- The circuit also works just fine with the other models in the P.G.D.T Range. ... VR2 , Vsi , Pilot+ ,Egis and Solo ...and as a bonus works with ALL the different makes models of USB-TTL adapter that I have....these include FTDI ( Fake and Genuine ) ,Prolific PL2303 , Chiphead CH340 & Silicon Labs CP2102.

[Pierro]

Hi,
i wanted to ask, can the cable in the photo also be used for the S-Drive Controller mentioned here? It came with my Wizard Kid.
Is that what is being talked about here?

[woodygb]

NO .... That is an RS232 DB9 SERIAL Cable ... You need an TTL SERIAL Cable.

https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/215

[agent86]

Thanks for the explanation Woody, it is hard to know if the non standard was deliberate to stop/slow down people making their own cables or they just didn't care as they made their own cables and ignored standards without the expectation anything else would be used. Either way it was great that Kirk designed the board for compatibility.