Jive/Salsa R2 mixture

[Burgerman]

Same as headways.

[expresso]

Same as headways.

very good - i may be looking at these once i get my new chair - i can then think about it on my Lead - ADD On chair and go full lithium there also - i want to have at least 2 good outdoor chairs first before i tackle this - maybe i can convince someone else also to do it -

the whole procedure would be the same - charge - let sit for a month - recharge - etc, or just charge them all up and connect since its only 8 Cells -

[Burgerman]

The one disadvantage is that you cant build strings of discharge rate equal cells. Since you only have 8. So it may be good. Or it may go out of balance over time faster. A matter of luck. Just build and use.

[Scooterman]

When tilt is down should seat plate rest on bump stops? It doesn't, sits a few mm above.

Is it adjusted with these recessed allen bolts?

Or is safer alternative to fit thicker bump stops? (don't want to screw up mechanism not knowing what adjustment screw does what)

[Scooterman]

Hi BM, please can you tell me what these adjustable length rods are called? I've searched tie rods but only get hits for motor vehicle parts. I was hoping I might be able to find some of a similar type on eBay.

[foghornleghorn]

The adjustable end is a rose joint.

[Scooterman]

The adjustable end is a rose joint.

Many thanks. I now just need to find out what the internally threaded rod is called.

[Burgerman]

And the bars are 14 or 15 mm alloy bar...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-Bar-Ro ... oY5XgtvA0A

[Scooterman]

And the bars are 14 or 15 mm alloy bar...

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Round-Bar-Ro ... oY5XgtvA0A

I see, many thanks for the link

EDIT: That's especially handy because rod can be cut to make adjustable bars of any length (within reason).

[Burgerman]

I buy 3 meter lengths. Usually 15mm or 16mm. If you want fancy, use carbon fibre bar...

To drill, I have a lathe in my bedroom. So drill, tap, easy. 6.7mm hole.

[Scooterman]

I buy 3 meter lengths. Usually 15mm or 16mm. If you want fancy, use carbon fibre bar...

To drill, I have a lathe in my bedroom. So drill, tap, easy. 6.7mm hole.

Hmm I did wonder that. I might abandon that idea I’m not confident that I could drill a deep hole and keep the bit centralised

[Burgerman]

You cant even do that with a pillar drill. You will need to find some tube with a 6mm bore, and 13 to 15 outer diameter. Then drill by hand/vice to 6.75 and then hand tap to M8.

Bit small, but https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192482417231 ... 2482417231

[Scooterman]

Thank you for the link, that looks alright plus it’s 6000 series which I know from experience they use in better quality manual wheelchair frames

[Scooterman]

PS. What’s you opinion of threads in aluminium? On my manual chair with the cast aluminium parts I do tend to find that the steel bolts lock themselves in overtime and can be difficult to free. I don’t know if that is because steel and aluminium react with each other?

[Burgerman]

Not with grease. Or copper grease.

Put any dry metals together and then allow water, or worse salt water and you have a battery. That means lots of chemical reactions happening. Grease stops that. And lubricates the threads on tightening or removal. Threads need to be greased. On any new chair they are dry...

[LROBBINS]

Even without dissimilar metals threads jam from a kind of friction welding (brinelling). Its worse for some materials than for others - stainless on stainless and aluminum on aluminum are horrid, hence grease or a good layer of loktite which reduces direct metral to metal contact are really needed in those cases even without water exposure.

[Burgerman]

This is why I spent 2 days dismantling my new chair, only to check it out and grease all the threads/bolts/parts meant to move etc. Because everything is squeeky dry. And already showing signs of corrosion/dust... Same on new bikes, cars, and everything else. Mass production doesent lend itself to fingers and grease! Everything seems to get assembled bone dry. Even a tiny bit of oil helps.

[Scooterman]

Not with grease. Or copper grease.

Put any dry metals together and then allow water, or worse salt water and you have a battery. That means lots of chemical reactions happening. Grease stops that. And lubricates the threads on tightening or removal. Threads need to be greased. On any new chair they are dry...

Thank you. I've got some graphite grease in the cupboard, is that okay?

Re: the salsa and dump. I managed to drill the lugs today. But I found it too difficult to drill through the frame while sat on the floor. So I removed the T/E unit and drilled the lugs on the work bench. Also with the T/E unit removed I took a couple of new photos and more accurate w x h x d measurements of the battery compartment. I'll post them tomorrow.

One other reason I removed the T/E unit was that I wanted to see how easy it would be to fit a static seat pan at a later date. The T/E unit weighs a ton, I don't know how much but I plan to weigh it on the bathroom scales before re-installing it.

One thing I notice though was that once the T/E unit was disconnected (unplugging three connectors) then the chair wouldn't drive. The joystick battery indicator lights just kept on blinking on and off. This might cause me a problem at a later date if I decide to go down the weight saving route and ditch the T/E unit? But I'm sure BM, or another WD member will have a solution for me.

[Burgerman]

The solution is programming.

Graphite grease will be OK. If a little messy. Dont use it on bearings.

If you weigh all the power footrest and backrest actuators and linkages, the seat mountings, lift and tilt module, extra electronics etc you will see it adds 50 to 70kg...

[Scooterman]

The solution is programming.

Graphite grease will be OK. If a little messy. Dont use it on bearings.

If you weigh all the power footrest and backrest actuators and linkages, the seat mountings, lift and tilt module, extra electronics etc you will see it adds 50 to 70kg...

Got it thanks!

Funny you say about weight. When the chair is stripped down this far it doesn't look too heavy. While sat on the floor I even tried lifting one side although I couldn't manage it. Although I would imagine you could tilt it up once it is stripped down this far. NB: I will be removing the suicide bar, I'm just leaving it for the moment because it's a handy jacking point for front castors.

I going reinstall everything on the chair apart from the reclining backrest and suicide bar. Then using the chair I will get a good idea of what I need from a powerchair. I'm mindful of what you wrote here:

[Scooterman]

Length 350mm
Width 265mm
Height 238mm

Height is tricky to measure. The more dump the more the rear end of rail encroaches into battery compartment. If rail and rear cross tube are avoided, then bags of room.

[Burgerman]

The limiting part is that horizontal bar across the rear, at te top, where the battery slides in and out. What is the measurement from the floor where the battery sits, to the underside of that bar?

I intend adding a 6mm or 8mm steel plate to the bottom of this too. For stability/cg purposes. And to add my tie down bolt.

[ICEUK]

Your going to remove the cross member on the front of the.chair which you call sucide bar? I dont understand why or i may have missed something

[Burgerman]

Its just a mounting for the curb climber thing that hits stuff and throws you out at 6mph if you are not careful about what it hits. So mines is long gone on all my chairs, the one in the pic above is just a remnant!

Although I may make a rose joint/alloy bar version if it adds frame strength. Not sure it does tough.

[ICEUK]

I see now, thx

[hank]

Groove doesn’t have one
So don’t worry
Throw away more weight not needed lol

[Burgerman]

For those unaware, Groove, Salsa, Jive, are all basically the same thing, with minor differences.

[Scooterman]

The limiting part is that horizontal bar across the rear, at te top, where the battery slides in and out. What is the measurement from the floor where the battery sits, to the underside of that bar?
.

The height measurement is the to underside of the cross tube give or take a millimetre or two. Sorry it’s not more precise, it’s a bit tricky measuring with the batteries in situ and the chair on the floor. While sat in my manual chair I can’t get my head down low enough to see the underside of the tube. L and W are easy and spot on.

[Burgerman]

So 135?

If so will order a set of 100Ah Sinopoly, plus 7 bus bars. And a 8mm thick steel plate that measures 340 x 260mm for mass correction.

[Scooterman]

Someone explain this?

No matter which way the LH tyre goes on the tread still points in the wrong direction