New hubs for F55 using off-the-shelf parts.

[Mark]

Thanks for the offer Dan, but I'm too far away; in Derby. I've more or less decided to do the job myself now. Just got back from Machine Mart with a new vice for my pillar drill. New drill bits also ordered, so I'm sort of committed to doing it myself. I've also just collected the Aluminium plates for mounting Anderson Connectors on either side of the frame. I ordered 4-off 90mm in length and they vary by nearly a millimetre. If you want the job doing right, doing it yourself seems to be the way to go.

[Martin O Refurbisher]

I expect to have turned ali ones in stock within 3 weeks.

Best,

Martin

[Martin O Refurbisher]

Does anyone have a strong preference for the colour I should have these anodised in, and why?

Best,

Martin

[Burgerman]

Are they to fit the all terrain wheels, or the trailer tubeless wheels? And to F55 or groove motors? If they are to fit F55 and ally then the keyway will be a problem and wear out fast. Causing too much backlash. Thats why they changed the f55 wheels centres to steel.

And recommend new wheels when you buy new motors. And they will seize on the shaft like f55 wheels do. All of the above is the reason I used the taperlocks in the first place, to remove the backlash, wear, and corrosion problems caused by the dissimilar metals and stupid keyway...

[Martin O Refurbisher]

Burgerman,
Q - Are they to fit the all terrain wheels, or the trailer tubeless wheels?

A I was planning on two types:
1 - Upgrade F55S like BM2 with 6.2 mph motors to take the cheap tubeless trailer wheels and tyres;

2 - Upgrade like BM3 with Groove Motors and better all-terrain wheels and tyres (I am not at present planning to cut the tubular frame on any upgraded refurbs that I do though - a question of liability).

And to F55 or groove motors?
If they are to fit F55 and ally then the keyway will be a problem and wear out fast. Causing too much backlash. Thats why they changed the f55 wheels centres to steel.

A. I will not be providing for the early F55 alloy wheels - only the later steel ones with separate hubs.

Q. And recommend new wheels when you buy new motors.
And they will seize on the shaft like f55 wheels do.
All of the above is the reason I used the taperlocks in the first place, to remove the backlash, wear, and corrosion problems caused by the dissimilar metals and stupid keyway...

A. I agree absolutely.
At present, I plan to use taperlocks wherever possible.
That would mean that if I retain the later Sunrise hubs, as in 1 above, the keys are retained.
However, for the Groove motors, the whole hub will be new, so I can use taperlocks.

You have prompted me to review whether or not I should do away with the factory hubs, the factory wheels and just go direct to taperlocks and decent wheels.
Do you have a recommendation for both sets of wheels?

What are your views, please John?

Best,

Martin

[redandwhite]

Does anyone have a strong preference for the colour I should have these anodised in, and why?

Best,

Martin

Hi Martin,
I think with the all terrain wheels the hubs wont show so cheapest is best.

I would also think that natural alluminium would be best for stock as it will look right on any colour chair whereas other colours may look good on colour A but not on colour B.

Colin

[dannos85]

Does anyone have a strong preference for the colour I should have these anodised in, and why?

Best,

Martin

Hi Martin,
I think with the all terrain wheels the hubs wont show so cheapest is best.

I would also think that natural alluminium would be best for stock as it will look right on any colour chair whereas other colours may look good on colour A but not on colour B.

Colin

I 2nd what colin said, Natural Aluminium As Stock.
If your going to mod a chair in the first place, the mods should be seen

[Burgerman]

Taperlocks are not needed on a groove motor since the stock hubs fit onto a taper. No movement. Just my adapters of which theres already an autocad drawing, to fit the cheap chinese quad bile 145/70 6 wheels and tyres. These are a better size for ride, and for any off road /grass sand etc,

The early and late f55 motors all use a keyway to drive. It screws up on alloy. It seems ok on steel and never gets worse. But still moves slightly. So if the adapters above fit the f55 steel hubs then one size fits all, so thats easy. Dont know if it does though yet.

Steel trailer wheels will fit on stock f55s the fat off road ones need the mk2 or 3 centre section. of which the mk3 one is better.

[Martin O Refurbisher]

Colin, Dan, Burgerman,
Many thanks for your input.

Best,

Martin

[Burgerman]

You CAN of course fit a foot of rubber to the stock F55 -- but it increases the width from 25 inches to 31 Which doesent sound much, but looks stupid, and makes it even wider than an x5 at 31 inches. Which means you will spend a lot of time outside as its wider than most doorways...

[Stewpot]

Martin,

Have you sorted adaptors between Groove motors to 3 stud 'quad bike hubs' yet

If not I'll give the go ahead for my local machinist to fab them up. £50 a pair though

Cheers

Stew

[Martin O Refurbisher]

Dear Stew,
I should have them sorted on Monday

Best,

Martin

[Stewpot]

Good news Martin. Have you a cost in mind?

Cheers

Stew

[Martin O Refurbisher]

I have told them to target £20 each or less, again, should know on Monday.

Best,

Martin

[Burgerman]

While you are doing them get them drilled for these wheels (6 holes) ... I just ordered 2 sets.

http://hegar4.com/zc/index.php?main_pag ... 0d9a5adad1

Can be assembled with a smear of RTV silicon and used tubeless. You want the 2.5 wide halves.

[gac3rd]

Can you be more specific about the aircraft nose wheel parts. I assume you will order one model 7900 rim half with a valve stem hole ($25), one rim half without a value stem hole ($25), one tubeless kit for 5" x 6" spun aluminum wheel ($19.95), and then duplicate this for the other side. So total of $70 per wheel rim.

I assume the point is to get the lightest rim possible? If this is the case, do you know what you are saving over a steel rim?

What tire are you planning to use? Will these work Kenda 15 x 6.00 - 6 turf tires which call for a 4.5" wide rim? Tires and rims are still a very confusing subject for me.

[Burgerman]

You dont need the tubeless kit. You need 2 2.5 rim halves. One with valve hole, one without. For each side obviously.

That leaves you with a 5 inch wide wheel. It doesent say how wide the spacer/o ring tubeless bit is, so its hard to figure out how to make use of that. So I will just use a smear of silicon RTV and bolt both halves to the new wheel adapter. Then after a couple of hours, inflate. I will use either of these tyres, here http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/ultimat ... rchair.htm scroll...

These are currently used on 4.5 inch rims. 5 inch is just 1/4 wider each side. Shouldnt be a problem. These are the same size tyres as you are talking about, 15 - 6.00 x 6 or the 14 inch all terrain ones. (145/70 - 6)...

The All terrain, are 4 ply, tubeless (used with a tube since 4 psi is very low and you can kick a tyre off a rim!) and kevlar reinforced puncture proof grass/lawn/mowing machine/golf cart tyres, or "turf" tyres.

Both will be OK on a 5J rim. Just 2 halves. Advantage? Lighter, easier to change a tyre, shiny (!), and reasonably cheap. Mostly because they just look prettier.

[LROBBINS]

John,

Silicone will work to seal split rims, but it does have to cure at least a couple hours and it doesn't survive demounting, at least not with steel split rims. Thus, if you get a flat you are out of action for a while - you have to have the silicone along and then wait for cure. Actually, if not exposed to air the silicone probably is only cured on the edges after 2 hours.

You might write to the supplier about those aluminum disc + O-ring thingies to ask how thick they are - probably no more than 3 mm or so compressed. Or you could do something similar to what I've done on my steel rims. I lightly glued small O-rings around each hole, then a larger O-ring (same size cord stock) around the whole set, then poured in a layer of polyurethane potting compound to about 1/2 the height of the O-rings. Quite permanent and adds ca. 2mm when mounted.

Ciao,
Lenny

P.S. I'd love to use Al rims like those on the new build, but I have to clear a 100mm diameter hub center boss and mount with 6 holes on a 115 mm circle. The centers on these wheels look much too small. Too bad, they really would look good.

[Burgerman]

They look the same as the 3 bolt rims I use now. Should be able to drill 3 more easily enough.

I used split rims on drag bikes. Silicon smeared on one surface, and a waxed bit of cling film on the other bolted finger tight till it sets works great. Once set, take apart, remove cling film, and the silicon is very firmly atached to just one side, and not the other. Take apart as often as you want. But why bother? Keep a tube in the car dashboard.

[Martin O Refurbisher]

I'll ask for drilling on both 4 and 3/6 hole pitch.

Best,

Martin

[Stewpot]

Hi Martin,

Hopefully you received my email yesterday? Any news on the Groove motor to Quad Wheel adaptors?

Cheers

Stew

[Martin O Refurbisher]

I have a further meeting with my lead fabricators Wednesday, and I am at the Sunrise plant all day on Thursday, so should be able to answer all queries on Friday,

Best

Martin

[Stewpot]

Any news on the adaptors?

Cheers

Stew

[Mark]

Picture of new wheels as per original Burgerman Mk 1 using taperlock bushes and hubs as shown in pictures some way back in this thread.

Tyres are treated with OKO off-road sealant and give most comfort at 10 psi each (I weigh less than 11 stone / 70kg). Haven't bothered to fit woodruff keys to shafts; shouldn't be needed with taperlock bushes. Will probably make some neat hub caps to keep muck out of centres.

So far so good, everything seems to be staying tight.

[Burgerman]

Use a hole saw, mount the bit you cut out in a drill with a nut/bolt, and tidy up with file/emery cloth. Send to powder coaters. Thats what I do for these:

http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/images- ... e-1024.jpg

And the tyres are scooter ones, and tubeless. But strong!

You need to get rid of that curb climber as it will sooner or later hit something unexpected and scare the crap out of you at speed... Ask me how I know.

[Mark]

And the tyres are scooter ones, and tubeless. But strong!

You need to get rid of that curb climber as it will sooner or later hit something unexpected and scare the crap out of you at speed... Ask me how I know.

Thanks for the correction; yes they are very tough. Will probably dispense with the kerb climber when I fit four-pole motors and can wheelie better. Wife keeps calling it my kerb-crawler!