WheelchairDriver

No...

I want a copy of your SETTINGS FILE. From the chair. Not a picture of it!

Like THIS

Good morning I send it for the third time.

NO....A PICTURE OR DOCUMENT IS NOT WHAT B.M. WANTS.


He wants the actual R-net programming file and he has already posted some EXAMPLES of the file type

So ... open the R-net software .... connect the chair ...download the settings / parameters ... SAVE them as REPARACIÓN SILLAS and post the file to the board.

We want to see a file like this REPARACIÓN SILLAS.R-net

One for the programming wizards. My Torque 3g with Tilt/Recline is showing this error on turn on. I have to click twice on the mode button to get the drive, which is fine. The seat is stuck at a slight tilt. Is there any way to get the seat back to level? Thanks for help.

Seat actuator or actuator module failed or unplugged or somehing. We never had those antiques over here!

Seat actuator or actuator module failed or unplugged or somehing. We never had those antiques over here!

Yes it's an older chair, it’s my backup chair I got it in 2012. I'm using it because my regular chair has a problem with the right motor failure.

I'll have someone check the connections.

Thanks

would it be possible to control indicators, lights, and profile, perhaps even the speed up and down, through my mobile phone using the Google assistant and some software?
so I can operate them by voice while I am driving. Particularly indicators and lights would be very useful

With r-net? Not sure. If so its not simple.

chazzyr wrote:One for the programming wizards. My Torque 3g with Tilt/Recline is showing this error on turn on. I have to click twice on the mode button to get the drive, which is fine. The seat is stuck at a slight tilt. Is there any way to get the seat back to level? Thanks for help.

I have a few of these, they are called a MK6i if you are doing google searches.

1. The cable running from the Joystick is a common wear / possible failure point, unlikely in this case but if your cable is worn or pinched this can cause an error.

2. There is a 'Stacked' bunch of connectors with covers that slide off and allow you to disconnect one connection at a time, very much looking and behaving like lego !
its possible its a dirty connection, unlikely but easy to check. The locking covers on the lego like stack of connectors at the end of the joystick cable are very fragile and difficult to find replacements for, if you do break one... zip ties work well as mechanical holding and a bag to stop water ingress.

3. The wires to your actuator may be pinched, check all the wires for pinching or damage.

4. Yes you can manually move the chair, connect a 12v battery to it and you will be able to move it up or down.
In the past I have attached an external bidirectional dc motor driver to these for a guy that wanted direct access to the tilt while driving.

5. Your actuator may be worn out, unlikely but possible. Replacements can be found on ebay or other such places.
You will need to find out the stroke length and torque/speed by searching the information that should be on a sticker on your current actuator.

6. I realize all of this is near impossible if you are in the chair at the time and unable to transfer. I hope a friend can help you out.

7. Your ISM module (if you have one on the back of your chair in a silver bracket, its kind of hidden) may have dirty connections.

As with all repairs, it will be a step by step process of checking each possible fault and moving on to the next one.
.... check the most obvious and easy to get ones first, its not the programming.

I have an idea for a special profile and I want to run it past you. I plan to create a profile that would serve only two purposes: 1). Getting the chair loose if it gets stuck off road, like in sand or in a hole; and 2). Curb climbing. My idea for this is to set the maximum forward speed low like 20% and the maximum forward acceleration very high, like 100. The point of this would be to cause the front caster arms to raise up as high as possible without causing the chair to run away once it gets un-stuck / over an obstacle. Does this make sense or is this going too far?

My chairs have been set to 100% forwards acel since 1990... And I only have one profile. Rear drive.

http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/gopro/control.mp4 Why set it to go slow? It is proportional. It goes as fast or as slow as you instruct it. It accelerates as hard as you tell it too. Full control. You dont have to do as in the vid. Its mm perfect.

Burgerman wrote:My chairs have been set to 100% forwards acel since 1990... And I only have one profile. Rear drive.

http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/gopro/control.mp4 Why set it to go slow? It is proportional. It goes as fast or as slow as you instruct it. It accelerates as hard as you tell it too. Full control. You dont have to do as in the vid. Its mm perfect.

Is torque also proportional? I guess I assumed that it was. So if your chair is stuck and you're pushing your stick all the way forward to get the casters to lift up, then once you are unstuck the chair might briefly fly forward at max speed. Or at least that's my experience. It's true that if you let go of a joystick it will stop, but you don't always know instantly that the chair has gotten free. Anyway I can try setting max forward acceleration to 100 in this profile and if I like it I can put it in other profiles. My other chair is set to 70.

Doesn't rNet have a parameter that lets you get boosted torque at low speeds only? i.e. increased motor compensation when output speed is low.

Yes thats what the torque setting does. It either boosts compensation at super low speeds (or small joystick movements) or it adds a bit of extra pulsewidth under the same conditions, hard to tell which. Its designed to make the chair "start" against resistance such as threshold or zero turn. But what it really does is the same as adding more compensation, without it being jerky at speeds above about 2%.

Okay. I was not being clear. I have torque set to a hundred in all profiles, anyway. I was really thinking about maximum forward acceleration. The higher you set this the higher the front casters lift up when you push the joystick at full throttle. But if you want the casters to lift up very high at slow speeds you have to set the max. speed low, otherwise it will never reach maximum forward acceleration when climbing a curb -- unless for some crazy reason you want to climb a curb at 10 km / hr. Thanks, you completely answered my question.

Okay. I was not being clear. I have torque set to a hundred in all profiles, anyway.

Then set to zero, and instead increase motor load compensation by 5. Now it should feel the same at really low just starting speeds as before. But now this level of motor compensation which is a positive feedback loop occurs at faster speeds than 0.1mph, such as while actually going up the curb. And then you could - if the chair doesent feel too jumpy when just starting moving just add more "torque" again.

I was really thinking about maximum forward acceleration.

The higher you set this the higher the front casters lift up when you push the joystick at full throttle. But if you want the casters to lift up very high at slow speeds you have to set the max. speed low, otherwise it will never reach maximum forward acceleration when climbing a curb -- unless for some crazy reason you want to climb a curb at 10 km / hr. Thanks, you completely answered my question.

Thats wrong.
ACCELERATION is unaffected by SPEED settings. And the speed if set to say 50% has EXACTLY the same affect as moving the joystick to half full throttle. If you set acceleration to 100, then it always accelerates at the same rate from 0 to say 6mph. Reducing top speed setting to say 20 percent just means it will accelerate to the new lower top speed at the same acceleration rate.That has exactly the same affect as just pushing the stick 20% of the way. The TORQUE increase needed at low pulsewidth comes from the load compensation.

You MUST have both ACCELERATION and MINIMUM ACCELERATION set to the same 100 (SAME with reverse acc and min acceleration, and deceleration/min dec) or yes obvously its acceleration rate will be less at small stick movements (and exactly the same - lower - if set to lower max speed). I set both to 100 obviously. And I do exactly the same with TURN ACCELERATION, TURN DECELERATION, MINIMUM TURN ACCELERATION, MINIMUM TURN DECELERATION. Or the chair will never steer properly.

When turning corners at various speeds.

Does r-net increase the speed of the outside motor, or decrease the speed of the inside motor?

That depends how fast you are going and on the max voltage setting. It does both at low speeds. It cannot increase the speed of the outer wheel if voltage is set high and you are already usig its max speed. So it only slows the inside wheel at that point. And also also the chair. Up a hill where thers voltage sag, it may not even be able to do that very well if voltage is set high like above 21.5V.

Ah I understand thanks for that BM

I don't think this guy's presenting style is very good, but that's by the by. I'd be worse than him, but then I wouldn't make a YouTube video.

I was hoping he'd tell you how to switch between drive profiles on this joystick, but he doesn't

I can set up additional profiles in r-net software and load them to controller. But I can't work out how to switch between the two drive profiles. I only want a main drive profile, and a second profile for manuevering empty chair into position indoors or on public transport.

I've read the r-net manual and that's also a bit vague, or above my limited comprehension.

I have an LCD joystick, but prefer the smaller LED joysticks as I don't need the Mode functions.


youtu.be/ejkZga6Hc6w

I dont know how on the LED joysticks you differentiate between modes, which seating funtions, or how to tell if you are changing drive profiles or speeds. Esp if outdoors where the sunlight means you cant tell what the hell is going on. With many modes, seating options, speeds, and profiles you really need a screen. Or its just a mass of frustration.

The LCD ones are better here. But again too small screen, and not bright enough outdoors.

The metal based CJSM2 has a bigger clearer screen that allows you to actually see what does what, with dedicated buttons, and it is bright enough to see what speed/mode/profile you are adusting and how to switch into and out of each one.

With the basic LED ones like the vid, its best to have only one profile, and just set speeds from the slowest 1mph to the fastest at max speed. And really thats all you need anyway. And a basic non rehab style chair.

With the ones with a screen, I set TWO drive profiles, and one is for an empty chair, where there is just one speed, (same as SLOW speed on the main profile) and reduced load compensation.

And if you intend going out n the sunshine dont bother with the basic colour plastic joystick. Its not bright enough and screen a bit too small.

Scooterman wrote:I can set up additional profiles in r-net software and load them to controller. But I can't work out how to switch between the two drive profiles. I only want a main drive profile, and a second profile for manuevering empty chair into position indoors or on public transport.

To alter your profiles you simply press the 'speed' buttons between the indicator buttons if you have profiles enabled in the software. If not those buttons will act as speed up and down buttons.

Burgerman wrote:I dont know how on the LED joysticks you differentiate between modes, which seating funtions, or how to tell if you are changing drive profiles or speeds. Esp if outdoors where the sunlight means you cant tell what the hell is going on. With many modes, seating options, speeds, and profiles you really need a screen. Or its just a mass of frustration.

Take it from me, the functions are simple and light up the corresponding part of the chair pictured on the controller. As said before, come rain or shine, the LED controllers are better than the rest and I use them all. The CJSM2 is too big, uncomfortable to hold and displays things for the world to see. The LCD is good, better in size than the CJSM2 but as like any controller with a screen is open to damage more easily. The good old, tough, comfortable, less in your face LED wins my vote every time.

I have both too. And I am not using the LED one for all the reasons mentioned but will on my non rehab seating BM2 chair in a few weeks. Both are great in he right situation.

Burgerman wrote:I have both too. And I am not using the LED one for all the reasons mentioned but will on my non rehab seating BM2 chair in a few weeks. Both are great in he right situation.

The reasons you mentioned though I don't see. I'm probably used to my LED with rehab and don't even need to look to know what rehab section to use, it's a counting exercise memorised and a quick flick of the joystick left or right to change from back to seat to feet.

Burgerman wrote:I dont know how on the LED joysticks you differentiate between modes, which seating funtions, or how to tell if you are changing drive profiles or speeds. Esp if outdoors where the sunlight means you cant tell what the hell is going on. With many modes, seating options, speeds, and profiles you really need a screen. Or its just a mass of frustration.

The LCD ones are better here. But again too small screen, and not bright enough outdoors.

The metal based CJSM2 has a bigger clearer screen that allows you to actually see what does what, with dedicated buttons, and it is bright enough to see what speed/mode/profile you are adusting and how to switch into and out of each one.

With the basic LED ones like the vid, its best to have only one profile, and just set speeds from the slowest 1mph to the fastest at max speed. And really thats all you need anyway. And a basic non rehab style chair.

With the ones with a screen, I set TWO drive profiles, and one is for an empty chair, where there is just one speed, (same as SLOW speed on the main profile) and reduced load compensation.

And if you intend going out n the sunshine dont bother with the basic colour plastic joystick. It's not bright enough and screen a bit too small.

That's what I was thinking of doing, it's simple.

Btw I had a red LED VDM on the scooter but in the dark it used to blind me and in the sunlight it would totally wash out. So I changed it for a large LCD VDM with the black segments. You know like on the second gen digital watches back in the 1980s.

700R wrote:To alter your profiles you simply press the 'speed' buttons between the indicator buttons if you have profiles enabled in the software. If not those buttons will act as speed up and down buttons.

Oh okay thanks . But if I have the profiles enabled and switch between them using the speed buttons. How do I change the speed for a particular profile?

PS: was the 700R a smaller capacity version of the 900R ninja?

So... How do you change the speed in each profile?

Burgerman wrote:So... How do you change the speed in each profile?

you don't

Burgerman wrote:So... How do you change the speed in each profile?

As Rover says, you don't but what you do is add an extra slow profile to compensate. I tear off down the road to the pub flat out then select the slower profile when entering the pub. I have 3 profiles on my LED, fast, slow and empty. On my CJSM2 I only have 2 profiles, fast and empty and slow the fast profile down from 5 to 3 with the paddle to go indoors.