Newuser: CPETKU
Posted: 20 Mar 2026, 21:51About me:
64 semi retired HW/SW engineer in the automotive industry
Caregiver for my mother (95)
I'm getting involved in this site and others to try to reprogram a Quantum J6 drive profile. I purchased a chair with a height actuator for $150 that needed batteries and verified operation using batteries from my UPS before taking ownership. Cosmetically it looks new but I can tell someone has been inside and there is significant wear on the friction clutch for the seat but all in all it's in decent shape. New batteries on order along with what I believe is an LDMZ USB-CAN adapter via AliExpress. No timing advantage to ordering off e-bay and I haven't been getting hit with customs charges lately.
While I don't like the idea of a powerchair, my mom has been in the hospital/rehab going on seven weeks and I don't think she is capable of walking from the bedroom to bathroom without risk. She lives with me, but I'm not always home. I chose the J6 due to footprint and turn radius, but I may still have to remove the door jamb and change out the sink to make room for her. While I can navigate with the chair, I expect she will hit a lot of stuff. My bigger concern is pinch points and so I want to slow down the slowest profile. The previous program is about where I want it if I raise the cair to enable low speed, but it still turns too fast, so I need to change that. Have considered a used programmer on e-bay, but I wanted to try the PC version first.
So Far I've
1) installed a PC programming app for the curtis controllers
2) Created a 1309 FTDI adapter only to find out it doesn't work
3) Hooked up a scope to the two extra pins on the charge port and confirmed it's a CAN based programmin interface
4) Found this and another site discussing this dilema back in 2016 and suggesting A1+ can adapters
5) Replaced the charger (the original was a horid design and broken
6) Created a STL file to repurpose the original XLR housing and add the extra two pins ( Just using as a guide right now to avoid shoring the can lines to VBAT while inserting wires)
So I'm waiting on the can adapter (probably 2 weeks) to try to see if I can make this work. I'm hoping this is the same USB-CAN design in 2026 that people have documentas as useable ten years ago...
64 semi retired HW/SW engineer in the automotive industry
Caregiver for my mother (95)
I'm getting involved in this site and others to try to reprogram a Quantum J6 drive profile. I purchased a chair with a height actuator for $150 that needed batteries and verified operation using batteries from my UPS before taking ownership. Cosmetically it looks new but I can tell someone has been inside and there is significant wear on the friction clutch for the seat but all in all it's in decent shape. New batteries on order along with what I believe is an LDMZ USB-CAN adapter via AliExpress. No timing advantage to ordering off e-bay and I haven't been getting hit with customs charges lately.
While I don't like the idea of a powerchair, my mom has been in the hospital/rehab going on seven weeks and I don't think she is capable of walking from the bedroom to bathroom without risk. She lives with me, but I'm not always home. I chose the J6 due to footprint and turn radius, but I may still have to remove the door jamb and change out the sink to make room for her. While I can navigate with the chair, I expect she will hit a lot of stuff. My bigger concern is pinch points and so I want to slow down the slowest profile. The previous program is about where I want it if I raise the cair to enable low speed, but it still turns too fast, so I need to change that. Have considered a used programmer on e-bay, but I wanted to try the PC version first.
So Far I've
1) installed a PC programming app for the curtis controllers
2) Created a 1309 FTDI adapter only to find out it doesn't work
3) Hooked up a scope to the two extra pins on the charge port and confirmed it's a CAN based programmin interface
4) Found this and another site discussing this dilema back in 2016 and suggesting A1+ can adapters
5) Replaced the charger (the original was a horid design and broken
6) Created a STL file to repurpose the original XLR housing and add the extra two pins ( Just using as a guide right now to avoid shoring the can lines to VBAT while inserting wires)
So I'm waiting on the can adapter (probably 2 weeks) to try to see if I can make this work. I'm hoping this is the same USB-CAN design in 2026 that people have documentas as useable ten years ago...