Wheel bearing presser

[steves1977uk]

Me, My Brother and Melissa are trying to replace the caster tyres on my lithium chair. I had to buy a bearing puller to pull the bearing of the axle, but now need a hydraulic press to push the bearing back on. Any suggestions please?

Thanks,

Steve

[steves1977uk]

Sorted! My Brother managed to assemble the bearing puller the opposite way and it actually pulls the bearing back onto the axle without too much trouble. So I'm pleased!

Steve

[martin007]

Can you upload a photo of the extractor?

[steves1977uk]

It's this one... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/223662811980 Works a treat, but you need to tap the bearings back onto the axle with a but not too hard.

Steve

[martin007]

Looks good!

[shirley_hkg]

Sorted! My Brother managed to assemble the bearing puller the opposite way and it actually pulls the bearing back onto the axle without too much trouble. So I'm pleased!

Steve

but you need to tap the bearings back onto the axle with a but not too hard.

Steve

On putting a bearing back , did you apply thrust on its inner ring or the outer ring of it ?

[martin007]

The correct thing would be to apply thrust on both rings at the same time.
Otherwise the bearing may be damaged.

[steves1977uk]

On putting a bearing back , did you apply thrust on its inner ring or the outer ring of it ?

You push both rings down equally to avoid damaging the bearings.

Steve

[Burgerman]

The outer ring only is best. You can use an old bearing and cover the new one and gently tap with hammer and be sure its seated and going in square.

[Dan]

Also some wheel bearings are directional. If you fit them the wrong way they may come apart when you hit a bump.

[Burgerman]

Do you have a link?

Unless you mean taper roller or 45 egree 2 part bearings meant for axial loads? Thise are not usually found in wheel bearings. Gas turbines/turbojets sometimes have them as a means of dissasembly and because the bearings are preloaded axially to prevent skidding at silly rpms.

[Dan]

7202B Single Row Angular Contact Ball Bearing for the Storm 4 xplore.

I found out the hard way.

https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=8944&p=139860&hilit=bearings#p139838

[steves1977uk]

The outer ring only is best. You can use an old bearing and cover the new one and gently tap with hammer and be sure its seated and going in square.

Good to know this BM as I thought both rings had to be pressed down equally. Had to order some new ones as the current ones are going rusty and are very stiff. Would it be a good idea to apply a cover of anti-corrosion grease before fitting?

Steve

[Dan]

Sealed stainless steel bearings but they cost more.

[LROBBINS]

Actually, if the outer ring is a loose fit in the hub, and the inner race is a tight fit on the shaft it's best to press the inner ring. The more usual situation is what Burgerman described - a slip fit on the shaft and press fit in the hub, so you pressure should be applied, evenly, to the outer ring.

[shirley_hkg]

Ordinary deep grove bearing is not design to withstand axle force, so Lobbins is right. I think BM mixed up with caster barrel.

[martin007]

Would it be a good idea to apply a cover of anti-corrosion grease before fitting?

I think it's a good idea.

[Burgerman]

When our bearings die its usually because they are corroded. External corrosion looks bad doesent cause a problem. But the ones we SHOULD be using are rubber sealed and greased for life. Although many manufacturers fit zz bearings which are metal shielded. Those dont lat long on a wheelchair as they let water in... And are steel. So they turn red inside and die.

The ones we should be using if we care at all are STAINLESS and RS which stands for rubber sealed. Since these a seal each side to contain the grease they are designated 2RS a the end after the size.

So a quick search shows that STAINLESS 2RS BEARING will find you the best bearings for the job. And cheap. They are used mostly in the food ond in the shipping industry. Steel bearings dont like salted winter roads or seawater... https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from ... 0&_ipg=240 On the contrary, stainless bearings are not more expensive and can in fact be very cheap. Take a look at the ones in the link.

So fit stainless sealed ones no matter what the manufacturer fitted new. Because carpet fibres and hair het wrapped around the axle and into the rubber seals, allowing water and dirt in. This allows the corrosion to start. And the grease dries out. But stainless steel bearing dont rust or corrode. So keep on working regardless.

[steves1977uk]

My casters take the 6000-2RS bearings, so I ordered these... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264536229477

These won't rust and not get clogged.

Steve

[Burgerman]

For what its worth those may be a little too "cheap"... At £1.90 each! Lets hope you dont get what you pay for! At least you got 10!


The blue seal ones are that colour as they are also commonly used in the food industry and a fancy camera picks out blue fragments in food on say a conveyer belt very easily as blue isnt a common food colour. I always tend to buy ones supplued by a bearing specialist as you really want decent quality rather than made above a shop in china...

But heres a list of most of the common sizes you will find on any powerchair. As long as its not USA made where they all use god knows what imperial fractional inch sizes. But even in the US they are probably still using standardised metric parts on mass market modern stuff. So:

In bore x diameter x thickness...
S638 2RS 8mm X 28mm X 9mm
S6000 2RS 10mm x 26mm x 8mm
S6001 2RS 12mm x 28mm x 8mm
S6002 2RS 15mm x 32mm x 9mm
S6003 2RS 17mm x 35mm x 10mm
S6004 2RS 20mm x 42mm x 12mm
S6005 2RS 25mm x 47mm x 12mm

I never saw anything other than these on powrchairs personally. So you can measure the MM with a ruler or even a tape measure. If its not one of these than you are probably in the USA...

[steves1977uk]

Mine are these BM...

S6000 2RS (I.D.) 10mm x (O.D.) 26mm x (Width) 8mm

I'm wanting to replace the axle with a welded double nut head (which acts as a spacer one side) with something easier to assemble. What would you recommend BM?

Thanks,

Steve

[Burgerman]

Dont know as I cannot see the parts...

[steves1977uk]

Here's the actual wheel hub...

This wasn't originally assembled by me, but an ex-RAF guy who used to help me. My Brother couldn't get the furthest bearing off the axle as it seems to be seized on. This is the right caster wheel, as the left one both bearings came off easier with applying a little grease on the axle.

I'll have to get Melissa to measure the forks inner width and buy two anchor bolts or something similar so Melissa or Mark can screw the two together to make one axle bar with two spacers each side to keep the wheel central. I'd do this for both casters. I know I'm not explaining it correctly, but I hope you get the gist of what I'm trying to say BM.

Steve

[Burgerman]

I would use a solid axle, 2 spacers, 2 shaped alloy washers and 2 countersunk allen keys.

Heres an ebay rim, powdercoated, and a home made stainless shaft. Theres a spacer that goes between the two bearings not seen here. And 2 that are. From alloy. The large flat washer fitted keeps the water, hair, dust, pressure washer out! it sits on a .25mm shim so that it doesent touch the outer.



Details https://www.wheelchairdriver.com/BM-MK3 ... uction.htm

Of course its easy to make an axle and spacers if you have a lathe in your bedroom...

[steves1977uk]

BM, just gotta find someone that has a lathe...

Steve

[steves1977uk]

Here's the new bearings I ordered vs an old one off my chair...

The blue one is the new stainless steel ones I ordered above, the black one is what came with the rims 8 years ago.

Steve