Burgerman wrote:No.
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=3790
But you dont need this. You specifically said you dont want RC. It turns the RC servo output from the reciever which is a pulse width signal at a specific frequency, to an analog voltage swing.
You just need to build some simple electronics to MIMIC the 2 channels analog voltage swing where the actual joystick currently connects to the PCB. As already explained in posts 2, 3 and several other places by three people.
TAKE a look at how a typical joystick actually works so you understand what we are all telling you.
https://docs.rs-online.com/2cdc/0900766b81400feb.pdf
You can simulate that with simple voltage divider resistors, and a voltage reference or the 5v supplied to the existing joystick unit. Because you dont want it to be proportional.
LROBBINS wrote:No, that's for a Dynamic Shark and its joystick device internally converts voltage to digital output, but Woody certainly has shown how to use a digipot + Arduino (and you don't need the RC input to do that) and I did it years ago with just 4066 digital switches and some voltage dividers (for both an old, single-board analog controller and for a Dynamic DX). If push came to shove I could probably find the ancient schematics somewhere in my archives.
LROBBINS wrote:I've tried to find a schematic of the voltage divider joystick emulator, but so far haven't found one. The oldest I've found in my files is one from 1999 but it is a 4066-based adapter for a Dynamic 4SW digital, rather than analog, interface (and it is more complex as it has switch control of Rachi's voice-output computer as well as for driving). In the meantime, I'm attaching the spec sheet for a fairly common type of joystick as it might be useful. These use Hall effect sensors, while yours may well use inductive sensors, but the wiring layout and various sensitivity and voltage options are similar for both.
Ooops, that file is too large to upload here, so here's a Google Drive link that you can use to download it:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VwBL2nrOFba-bxkxgoOjpIQelE2W92Ra/view?usp=sharing
woodygb wrote:The Vsi will contain a JC2000 or MAID joystick.
https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/30691.pdf
The easiest way in my opinion to control the motors is to emulate the joysticks output.
NOTE:- That each Axis ... X & Y ...has dual ( two ) voltage swings that must match each other within a set % .
The voltage swing is 1.2v - 1.3v each side of a 2.5v center.
Here is a vid of project that I did.... the PP3 battery holder contains everything required ...this being a 5V regulator , Arduino Pro Mini , HC06 Bluetooth module and a MCP4261.
youtu.be/KQy1xbo9tNE
woodygb wrote:It will look something like this inside.
Note this is the inside of an older 6 button Vsi.
Burgerman wrote:The arm tops are on the wrong sides!
nani13 wrote:May I ask did you use the TORX10x70 driver to dismantle the controller? It is a hard driver to find in Singapore, might need to purchase online.
woodygb wrote:
nani13 wrote:woodygb wrote:
Am I correctly interpreting this, by sending 5V to the joystick, pin 1 and 3, we shall in turn receive the respective output voltage at pin 2,4,5,7 depending on joystick direction?
woodygb wrote:nani13 wrote:woodygb wrote:
Am I correctly interpreting this, by sending 5V to the joystick, pin 1 and 3, we shall in turn receive the respective output voltage at pin 2,4,5,7 depending on joystick direction?
Yes.
Connectors.
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/deta ... LF/1537945
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/deta ... lf/4417982
Burgerman wrote:Now you understand what I meant by "doing all your homework for you".
We have eventually ended up with you doing exactly what we suggested in the 2nd post. And explained step by step how to do it. This much was obvious to those of us that have done this all before the hard way by figuring it all out ourselves. By post 2...
And in the end after messing about for weeks you will come to realise why I said wrong chair, wrong controller etc to be wasting your time on.
Because its a long slow learning curve so you dont understand this yet. Whilst the R-Net system, and a decent 4 pole powerchair for e.g. initially costs more it is going to be vastly more capable for the end users with much greater flexibility for individual needs. Vastly more options and modules available, and more power that the users will require. And 20 years of firmware, sofware and programming options and flexibility that you do not yet really understand that you need. Now as I said if this is just some learning exersize for your education, college then non of that matters.
If however the end result is primarily to help the users then you are basically wasting your time as you will never have a suitable system with that controller.
So the reason you are doing this is important.
Burgerman wrote:I am not triggered. Theres two options here.
Trying to explain to someone with no clue what disabled users actually need, with ignorance about about powerchairs and users is frustrating you think you know what you are doing precisely because you know very little. If the object is to actually help people, then you need to advise the "centre" that they are using the wrong base chair and wrong control system. The chair you are trying to modify is only suitable for those that can walk and have normal hands etc. And just need a litte help in shopping centres etc. And to be portable and light and cheap. It is not a proper fully configurable rehab stye chair. So for the type of users you are trying to help is really not suitable. Especially when you begin to try and add digital control etc. That system isnt setup in any way to do this safely or wth adequate power or control in its firmware/software of configurability. It doesent matter if this is the chair "they use" or not. Its wrong period! And wholy unsuitable for complex controls etc for several good reasons. And asking here in this case was a good idea.
Yes you dont understand. Thats why its frustrating.
Now if its just a teaching excersize then it doesent matter. If the end user isnt important. Only your education. As long as you understand that its not going to be much real world use when you have finished. And that far better systems and chairs that are much safer and more configurable DESIGNED from the outset to do this already exist. But in that case YOU should have done the work, measured and figured everything out, and made an interface etc on your own in order to learn. In this case the end user is irrelivant, the whole point was to learn and figure it out. To exersize you brain and do the work. Not gone to a forum like this and got us here to give you all the information. Because that then defeats the purpose of your lessons. Which is why I say you came here to let us do your homework.
Again. Yes you dont understand. Thats why its frustrating. Its all the stuff that you have no clue about that means you think you do understand!
A great man once said that the least intelligent are sure they know. The most intelligent (and the most experienced) understand a lot more and realise how little they know.
You say its a learning experience. So what are you going to learn by asking us on here how to do it? Take it apart, investigate and figre it out! THATS how I learned how to do this 20 years ago. With a multimeter. Some simple electronics. And testing and measurement. I didnt go ask someone!
woodygb wrote:Ribbon
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/deta ... -R/2391672
Does your ribbon cable unplug from the pods board?.... if so , check VERY CAREFULLY how the 8 pin sockets are crimped to the ribbon cable.
Why? .... Because the numbering system from one end to the other of the ribbon will have changed IF the connectors have been crimped facing opposite sides of the ribbon.
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