Jive/Salsa R2 mixture

[Scooterman]

R-net LED and VR2 90A is not possible. Either both R-Net or both VR2. Check again!

The seller emailed me the order form but I know nothing about powerchairs.

[Burgerman]

Well thats a contradiction.

An R-NET control pod requires an R-NET power module. And that can use this too, so start saving! http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Produ ... CJSM2.aspx

R-Net http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Produ ... R-net.aspx

A VR2 Controller needs a VR2 power module...

[Scooterman]

Here's a photo of the controller.
So do you think there's a mistake on the order form?

[Scooterman]

Perhaps I should a horse instead, probably be cheaper?

[Burgerman]

On the order form both VR2 and r-net are ticked... Which cant work.

Thats an Rnet LED joystick pod. http://www.cw-industrialgroup.com/Produ ... R-net.aspx

[Scooterman]

I'm confused?

These are the only options on the order form. All the other guff is about legrests, armrests, seat width, wheels, etc
If as BM says the item we can see is a R-net led joystick. Then that must mean the VR2 90Ah controller is wrong?

Does it matter? The chair obviously works, but I assume if it's got a lower power controller then the spec isn't as good?

[Burgerman]

Then that must mean the VR2 90Ah controller is wrong?

Yes, its got an r-net 90A one instead, since thats the only one that can be fitted. Or if really lucky a 120A one, but thats not a stock option.

[Scooterman]

Thanks

Re the centre footplate. I notice from looking at the parts manual the footplate is attached to a 90 degree hanger arm. This knee angle would be too tight for me, I need 75-80 degrees. Two options I could think of would be: a) Cut and re-weld hanger arm at 75- 80 degrees. a) cut and weld some form of lockable hinge or mechanism in place of elbow that can be tightened at desire angle by an allen bolt? I haven't a clue if something like that is available so probably the simple option would be a) cut weld re-weld in desired position.

What do you think?

[Burgerman]

As far as I know there are lots or types and all are about 75 degrees. And would need to be to clear wheels.

[Scooterman]

As far as I know there are lots or types and all are about 75 degrees. And would need to be to clear wheels.

Oh I didn’t know that. The only one I’ve seen was on a salsa m2 (and your chair). I might ask rover220, he might know more having a few?

[Burgerman]

Well I have two here. One on my chair, powered. It goes from 80 degrees to straight out. And one from Rover to fit to my BM2 and its fixed and 80 degrees at a guess.

[Scooterman]

Well I have two here. One on my chair, powered. It goes from 80 degrees to straight out. And one from Rover to fit to my BM2 and its fixed and 80 degrees at a guess.

Oh, is it? Thanks I'll have to PM him.

I've taken the plunge this evening and bought the chair, I've just got to get it collected now. Because I want to achieve a similar look to your Salsa I will re-read through this whole thread again. The chair is shod with grey solid tyres and also has blue bodywork. I'm not keen on the 'light blue' look and plan to respray the bodywork either black (similar to your chair), or a dark red. When I've got the chair I'm hoping you might be able to suggest some aftermarket wheels, tyres, and spacers that would fit, the wheels being smaller at 12.5" and 9".

I'm looking forward to getting the chair, hopefully it'll be okay. Not having a car, at least I should be able to access buses and trains now. And I won't be limited to where I can go (or for how long I can stay) due to poor arm strength and bad elbows.

[Burgerman]

It will look like a big sloppy undrivable thing that you cant control properly whe it arrives. But will get kicked into shape bit by bit, wheels last! As long as you can waste hours with a spanner! And a saw... And maybe a drill.

[Scooterman]

It will look like a big sloppy undrivable thing that you cant control properly whe it arrives. But will get kicked into shape bit by bit, wheels last! As long as you can waste hours with a spanner! And a saw... And maybe a drill.

I don't mind at all spending time learning about it and tinkering with it, it make it feel more like mine. But I wouldn't if it wasn't for yourself and this forum, and also the fact that you've already done similar. And I totally agree about wheels and tyres coming last. First priority is moving the seat back and swapping the swing away footrests so I can get myself sitting comfortably in the chair. When it arrives I'll upload a few photos of the relevant bits that will hopefully help you guide me .

[Burgerman]

When I ordered, I already knew that all this would need to be done to make a workable rear drive chair. And was confident it could be done. So wasnt surprised at how dismal it was.

What beats me is how all the many hundreds of these chairs users, and every other make too, actually manage to get through a day with them as stock? To me they are quite simply unusable. I cant reach the joystic, move left or right in a sensible fashion, or even get around my room.

[shirley_hkg]

How about changing the 12.5" solid drive wheels and solid 9" castors tyres and perhaps wheels to give a more cushioning ride and nicer look?
I don't know this Shirley HK gentleman so will have to buy in UK. Also if I changed the drive wheels I'm guessing I'd need to get some of them spacer plates made like BM..

I'm at your service . It is around £23.00 a wheel with 3.50-8 tyre .

With BM's measurement , I can make & ship with those spacers too .

[Scooterman]

What beats me is how all the many hundreds of these chairs users, and every other make too, actually manage to get through a day with them as stock? To me they are quite simply unusable. I cant reach the joystic, move left or right in a sensible fashion, or even get around my room.

I so agree. It's the same with some manual wheelchair users. The shop or WCS set the COG so far rearward that the wheeler can barely reach the rims and the front castors are trying to plough two furrows as they go along. After struggling for a while they then buy a pair of powered rear wheels. Having a forward set COG and learning the chair's balance point transforms it, and negates the need for powered wheels unless you have (or want to avoid) shagged elbows or shoulders like mine. This is me last year, (I know I'm a scruff bag) https://youtu.be/mPUrAxUkHEM. But I rarely use the chair nowadays because 8 years rolling round in a NHS granny chair screwed my elbows. Then I bought a cheap secondhand rigid chair and experimented but it was too late, and I'm too old and haven't got the physical strength anymore anyway.

Re powerchairs. Without wanting to blow smoke up your ****. If it wasn't for yourself, this website, these forums, and other WD users, I certainly wouldn't have the confidence to even know what powerchair to buy let alone how to fit it out and set it up properly. Also with your pioneering work on wheelchair and personal care budgets you've done more to help disabled/powerchair/scooter/wav/ users than any placard waving whistle blowing demonstrator on a days jolly to london. You should be given a honours gong, you're far more deserving than the usual crowd of charitable trust (aka tax-dodging scheme) lurvies who always get them.

[Scooterman]

I'm at your service . It is around £23.00 a wheel with 3.50-8 tyre .

With BM's measurement , I can make & ship with those spacers too .

Wow can you, that's great! I didn't like to PM you out the blue as I felt it would be rude. You obviously know BM far better than me so felt rude asking can I have similar.
As soon as the chair arrives I'll be in touch. Is it about 2 week del time from HK?

[shirley_hkg]

. Is it about 2 week del time from HK?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7365&start=120

[Burgerman]

My rims are 3.5 inch wide x 8.
Tyres are 120/70-8

Not 2.5 x 8 and 3.50 x 8.... Just in case you care!

[Burgerman]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7455&start=140

Making spacers. 2 hours.

[Burgerman]

Spacers/adapters...

To fit those rims to a salsa, you need:

Spacer/Adapter ring:
Inside diameter (hole) 41.5
Outside diameter 110.0
Thickness 14 to 16mm (I used 2x 8mm instead per side - 15mm in one bit is easier)
Bolts inner ring 60 pcd x4 drilled 9mm and countersunk for taper countersunk flush fitting cap head bolts.
Bolts outer ring 90.5 x 4 tapped for M8 to fit rim. Thats all you need to fit wheel.


Cover plate to fill centre hole = 2 parts.
1x ring, 74.5mm diam, x 41.5 hole, x 8mm thick. Drilled for 2x M5 countersunk bolts, that screw into the main wheel adapter.
1x cover, 74.5mm diameter x 1.5mm thick polished stainless steel disk held on with the load spreading washers that also hold the wheel on. See later pics.

All in easy to drill aluminium from here, laser cut to size https://www.lasermaster.co.uk/easy-order

[shirley_hkg]

It depends .

8'' rim has 3 widths ; 2.5 , 2.75 , 3.5 . Offset will determine thickness of spacer .

Plate size & mounting holes are indifferent .

[Burgerman]

If you try to fit a rim smaller than 3.5 the spacer/adapter will need to be either too thin for strength needed at about 0mm to keep the tyre 5mm close to motor, or negatively thick for the 2.5 one! And the centre nut will be proud of the wheel centre hole so look bad. I did all the maths.

[shirley_hkg]

Is your chair for sale ?

[Burgerman]

No! Its took weeks of being off my bed an hour a day to get it sorted out! And I am going to get another...

[Scooterman]

Will you be removing the push handles and blanking stub ends? Just curious...

[Burgerman]

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7455&start=280#p116081

Log gone. Look carefully here...

[Scooterman]

http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/board/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7455&start=280#p116081

Log gone. Look carefully here...

Ah missed that. I will do the same.

[Scooterman]

. Is it about 2 week del time from HK?

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=7365&start=120

Thanks. So reading the table a 5kg parcel is about £50 airmail and typically 2 wks?