PINNED ZXD2400 Old + New 0-60V 0-50A Power Supply & Charger

[Burgerman]

Its good. Go for it...

[Gnomatic]

So a Dremel with a cutting disk is sufficient to cut through this aluminum?

I am thinking of ditching the C14 AC power input that came in the kit and modding the existing hole to accept something like this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/252505315800?ul_noapp=true

Power input, fused, with on/off switch.

[Burgerman]

I decided after discovering that there is already an on off on that button (press and hold) to leave as it is. And also to skip the input fuse as theres one in the wall plug. If you fit that i will likely impinge on the space for anderson too.

So... choices!

Yes the correct disks that are used with my cheap dremmel cut aluminium easily. Needed a flat file to tidy up.

[LROBBINS]

U.S. wall plugs do not have fuses, nor (as far as I know) do wall plugs anywhere except in GB.

[Burgerman]

In which case adding one is wise.

[steves1977uk]

U.S. wall plugs do not have fuses, nor (as far as I know) do wall plugs anywhere except in GB.

http://www.iec.ch/worldplugs/typeG.htm

Quite a few countries uses the UK style 3-pin plug.

Steve

[Burgerman]

True.

What happens in the US and all the countries that dont have a fuse if an appliance starts sucking out too much current, maybe a melted wire of failed component. What stops the supply cable to the appliance from then catching fire and burning the house down while you sleep? I may be worried if I lived in the US!

[LROBBINS]

In the U.S. (and Italy at least) each branch circuit is protected by a fuse or breaker rated at the carrying capacity of the branch wiring. So, a 12 gauge branch will be protected by a 20 Amp breaker at the entry panel (and, these days, there'll also be one or more GFIs at the panel as well). Italy allows use of sub-panels, so the main panel may have higher rated breakers, but the sub-panels will have branch-level breakers and GFIs. Device fuses are mostly there to avoid the cord set catching fire and (a little bit) to protect the device itself from damage extending beyond the primary failure. You are dependent on the honesty of the electrician and inspector who do and certify the house wiring - I had one home in which there was 12 ga wire to the first box in many branches, but 15 ga downstream - a fire waiting to happen with the 20A breakers in the panel.

[Burgerman]

You are always relying on the electrical contractors skill and honesty everywhere really. Since you cant see under floors, into walls etc.
And to complicate things, the UK has ring main circuits. It allows a diversity factor.

You have say 2x 15A fuses or 2x 15A breakers or maybe one ELCBs at the panel. These have a ring, or loop of 2.5mm sq cable, 5mm total, that goes around a room, or 2 small rooms. This may have 6 or 8 double sockets on it. So possible 16 appliances connected at once. Each appliance has a fuse matching the power requirements/cable in the plug. So a bunch of phone/laptop bricks, will be 3A fused. PC? 5A. Big power supplies, a pressure washer, or a room heater will be 13A fuse max allowed. It is permissible to run a few sockets on a single 2.5 cable from this ring too. Called a spur.

The idea being that its unlikely anyone will connect 8 heaters to a single ring... So on average no ring is overloaded. And no appliance has an unacceptable fuse in its plug. The ring itself, can give 2x 15A or 30A at any point. Safely. If enough people connect 3kw devices it would trip the panel.

[Gnomatic]

Well I ordered that switched and fused AC input. Its only $10. Once I get my hands on it I'll measure and give it a good look over. And I won't start cutting unless I'm pretty sure there is room for it.

[Burgerman]

Maybe move it sideways off centre a touch, to the right leaving room for anderson?

download/file.php?id=8333&mode=view

[Gnomatic]

I think so. Pretty sure there is room for it. But we shall see.

Did you install the LED that came in the kit?

[Burgerman]

Not yet. Just unplugged all leds.

[martin007]

Summarizing

Input Volts -> 230V
Output Volts -> 0.1V - 60V
Outpout Amperies -> 0.1A - 50A
Outpout Watts -> 0.1W - 3000W

Efficiency -> ?


3-stage charger; with adjustable residual current that trickles to float , and float voltage as well.

Is it possible to customize this charging mode by increasing or decreasing the volts and amps?

Can the end user do it?

[Burgerman]

Efficiency varies depending on the volts in, and the volts out, and the current out.

User adjustable? Yes thats the point.

[martin007]

Efficiency varies depending on the volts in, and the volts out, and the current out.

80%?

90%?

User adjustable? Yes thats the point.

For example with 27.2V (absorption) and 26.4V (flotation) = when it is very hot.

Does it also have a bulk charge?

Can the amps of this three-stage charge also be customized?


Everything indicates that it is an ideal charger for "MK" gel batteries.

[Burgerman]

ALL adjustable power supplies are by definition bulk chargers. That just means CC stage. YOU choose max Amps. And it wont go above.

ALL adjustable power supplies also have the 2nd stage nailed! Thats called absorption by dummies. Its the CV stage. YOU just set whatever CV stage you wish. Say 28.2V.

Now, every adjustable charger is already a CC/CV 2 stage charger. If you set these 2 things. As long as you leave the battery on, it will charge at the CC stage till it reached the CV stage. And will sit there at CV until YOU stop it after say 8 hours. At that point no float CV stage is required. Its done.

This power supply also allows you to set a CV termination current, at say .2A, (YOU decide) and then has a 3rd CV stage (float) that YOU also choose. Thats a slower way to achieve a full charge, but its OK for even slightly Discharged batteries. But will take 4 or 5 hours more.

[martin007]

Do you recommend me to buy the charger?

I think it's a good option.
And it's cheaper than buying PowerLab 8.

[Burgerman]

I have been trying to tell you this for weeks... ALL adjustable power supplies can charge batteries. As well as the users knowledge allows.

What you are lacking is an understanding of basic electricity, ohms law, charging.

A PL8 does the same thing, but is better, more accurate, easier to drive via PC, gives more info, and charges/balances lithium, and graphs everything. But you only want to charge lead. And it needs the same power supply as above!

[martin007]

To charge lead batteries this charger serves the same as the PL8 and cheaper.
In winter I raise the voltage and in summer I lower it.

Wheelchair manufacturers should sell these chargers.

I will have to talk to shirley_hkg

[Burgerman]

The problem is that most users wouldnt know how to configure it, as it takes knowledge.

[martin007]

The problem is that most users wouldnt know how to configure it, as it takes knowledge.

I understand.

Do I have to buy something else along with the charger?

[Burgerman]

You will need some ring terminals, to connect more securely at the rear, some cable, and anderson connectors etc to charge above 12A. And you need care. Set it wrong, too high Amps, or too high voltage and damage batteries or if charging at 12A via XLR you may cook the controller by sending more Amps! You need to know what you are doing. Theres no "are you sure" checkbox! It depends on you. And it will do as you say. Even if its wrong. This is why you cant sell to the public.

EG I charge at full power if in a hurry. And 25A if not on gel, and full power on odyssey.

[martin007]

You will need some ring terminals, to connect more securely at the rear, some cable, and anderson connectors etc to charge above 12A.

OK.

And you need care.

The Fluke multimeter will help me.

The volts in red and the amps in green?

[martin007]

With a little help I can do it.

For greater safety I think about placing an input fuse and an output fuse.
Old chargers have safety fuses.

What do you think Burgerman?

[Burgerman]

Input yes.
Output?
You cant. You may want to charge at 12A via XLR one day. And 50A via anderson the next... Instead of fuse you set CURRENT to correct level. Dont use 4mm bannana connectors, as unlike the PL8 which is protected against reverse connection, the power supply will likely go bang!

[shirley_hkg]

Paypal eats away 4.6% from every transfer .

[shirley_hkg]

The Fluke multimeter will help me.

psu.jpg

It's calibrated and is pretty accurate for our jobs.

What BM means is to avoid messing the preset up inadvertently . So better take a glimpse of volt and amp before connecting to chair .

Doesn't need a Fluke .It's not rocket science .

[martin007]

Could you send me a charger shirley_hkg?


You send me (PM) the amount and the Paypal address.
I can send you the money as a Friend and thus Paypal does not charge commissions.

[Burgerman]

You will need to be very patient. Takes a long time and comes by slo boat from china, literally. Look on map, notice where china, and esp HK is...