PINNED ZXD2400 Old + New 0-60V 0-50A Power Supply & Charger

[Burgerman]

What is: display roCP

[Furio]

The following are the screen shots.

[Furio]

More.

[Furio]

Last.Not in order.

[Furio]

In OFF position the display shows: -8.1 oFF

In ON position it is: -4.7 -8.0

Now roCP does not appear on display.

furio

[Burgerman]

Interesting! You may have messed with its calibration? And have complicated it all by turning on/off lots of features and have many a numbered settings memory!

[steves1977uk]

https://translate.googleusercontent.com ... jkG7Q3wMcA Mentions about "roCP"

Steve

[Burgerman]

In a week, when I get off this damned bed again, I will photograph my correct settings so you can just copy.And as long as you didnt choose to recalibrate, then all will work normally.

[martin007]

when I get off this damned bed again

Are you sick?

[Burgerman]

Pressure sore ischeal tuberosity...

[shirley_hkg]

Steve is right . You might set the over-volt protection too low and trigger the output stopped .

Go to menu 8 and see what value is it.

I advise 1.5V---2.5V.

Change it and return to menu 5 to save the change .

[Furio]

Hi,

Menu 8 V and A was at 1.0 . I moved it up to 1.5 saved,and tested.No change in out put voltage and display. So then increased to 2.0, and then to 3.0 but to no avail. The output voltage remains the same; also the display.

Another thing I left mentioning yesterday, while tinkering with the settings(only from the panel), the fans revved up suddenly and the left side (side with the sticker) was quite hot without any load connected. Immediately I switched off the charger. And now after the menu 8 increased to 2.0 - 2.5, the left side was slightly warm.

Furio.

[shirley_hkg]

Go to menu 7 to restore to factory preset

[Furio]

Hi,

Some other observations:

Menu #2 setting: 19V Menu#8 setting: 0.1V Output Voltage: roVP
Menu #2 setting: 30v Menu#8 setting: 0.1V Output Voltage: 2.4V
Menu #2 setting: 30V Menu#8 setting: 1.5V Output Voltage: 5.0V
Menu #2 setting: 30V Menu#8 setting: 3.0V Output Voltage: 5.0V
Menu #2 setting: 60V Menu#8 setting: 3.0V Output Voltage: 10.5V

I will do the factory reset and see.

Furio.

[shirley_hkg]

Then redo chapter 7 auto calibration .

[Burgerman]

I see a mushroom cloud over india

When he was a child I suspect he took everything apart and broke it...

[Furio]

Hi,

BM. Now the mushroom cloud is blown away .Actually it was monsoon cloud.

Only the auto calibration is remaining

shirley_hkg .Thanks.

Furio.

[Burgerman]

Dont burn your chickens until your bridges have hatched. Or something...

Or was it, dont count your bridges until your chickens are burned?

[Gnomatic]

Finally got around to cutting a notch out of the back plate of the fancy case to allow room for the anderson to be fitted on the back of the charger. Used a small rotary tool and a hacksaw.. Cleaned it up a bit with an old file I had laying around. It looked great, a very clean cut notch.

One problem - the notch was a tad shallow for the anderson to fit. So I had to take the old file and file away to deepen the notch until the anderson fit, which it now does. Unfortunately now looks pretty jenky, not all nice clean and even like when I finished the initial cut. Oh well, thats just cosmetic. And I won't be looking at the rear of it often. Bit it bothers me at the moment when I see it.

On another note, I'm 99% sure a 25mm thick will not fit in the front of the fancy case. There is plenty of room for a 25mm thick fan in the rear of the case however. I'll be adding that. Also replaced that thick mesh on the front of the case with a chunk of speaker grill. The holes are too big for it act much as a dust filter, but it will keep bigger particles out and allows air to actually flow.

[Burgerman]

And allow sound out. That horidly restrictive stuff it came with was likely used to quieten it. But better to use a quiet fan. Or even a stopped fan since the air flows well with just the rear one especially if you fit a thicker one without that grill. Remember that the two heat sinks are now firmly bolted to the 3mm allow case sides. So the case becomes a heat sink too. If you add two bits of that grey packing polyurethane foam 25mm x 25mm x 90mm to the case top and bottom, you also force the all the air to flow through the heat sink fins.

P.S. I measured two andersons plugged together, and added .5mm to it both ways. And scribed it onto the metal before cutting. I have done this before... And have done as you did in the past.

download/file.php?id=8333&mode=view
download/file.php?id=8334&mode=view

[Furio]

Hi,

Well, it is not as expected. The charger refuses to enter auto calibration mode.

The output voltage can be adjusted as desired but The moment an ammeter is connected,with menu#4 set at 9A, the voltage sags to zero and current at 2.5A. So
Am I looking at a hardware...........?

After charger reset, the default display is 2.62V, 0.06A
Menu#1 01V 715, Menu#2 80.0V, Menu#3 01 424, Menu#4 9.0A, Menu#5,6,7 default, Menu#8 -- --,Menu#9 00^^000,
Menu#A ^^00000, #B , #C ver.3.17

Is menu#2 80.0V OK? . ^ means ON.

Furio.

[Burgerman]

wait for shirley. One of the settings is 60 or 120V and 25 or 50A.

He seems to understand all this as he mods them.

[shirley_hkg]

The mod guy has locked the menu , that also prevents user to use auto-cal again. Because it will automatically clear everything and back to factory preset.

Click Steve's page and see what menu E is about.

Change the value @ADDRESS 99 back to ZERO , and save it . (look if it is 88 currently).

Turn off PSU . Press and hold 15 sec till you see a white 0 , and you are into aoto-cal again.

[shirley_hkg]

[shirley_hkg]

John, find you 2 long lost friends.

Address 73 , 74 , would make it a competent auto 3-stages charger now.

[Burgerman]

Its god day today. I am not religous. I find it rediculous. If I were you I would pray anyway! It might help!

[Burgerman]

Address 73 , 74 , would make it a competent auto 3-stages charger now.

Do not understand.
Its already a 3 stage charger, user sets the voltages. And termination current. Works very well. If you set transition from CV to float to 0.1A or 0.2A.

You cant do that automatically, as you need 29.4V CV and 27.2V float on Odyssey, but 28.2V CV and 27.0V for gel. It cant do both automatically? One or the other.

[Burgerman]

The output voltage can be adjusted as desired but The moment an ammeter is connected,with menu#4 set at 9A, the voltage sags to zero and current at 2.5A. So

If it sees a direct short, such as an ammeter, it may turn off power to protect itself. Many supplies do that.

[shirley_hkg]

P.S. Whenever the bulk current setting is altered , this trickle-to-float current will be reset to 30% of bulk

Thats rediculous! It should be set to 100thC for a top up, (say .7A) on a 70Ah battery then float, and to 1/500th to 1/1000th for deep cycle use or 8 hours max.

So setting to say 500thC or (140mA), and then float at 13.5 is about right for an average wheelchair use.

https://translate.googleusercontent.com ... YSUxnym3fw



The residual current for switching to float , and the float voltage , are changed back to preset values , WHENEVER THE BULK VALUES ARE ALTERED .

By entering user's values here, we can lock the float A&V to a sensible rate that we think appropriate .

No bother to re-write them every time ,
assuming bulk charge rate is in proportion to the C of the battery .

[Furio]

The mod guy has locked the menu , that also prevents user to use auto-cal again. Because it will automatically clear everything and back to factory preset.

Click Steve's page and see what menu E is about.

Change the value @ADDRESS 99 back to ZERO , and save it . (look if it is 88 currently).

Turn off PSU . Press and hold 15 sec till you see a white 0 , and you are into aoto-cal again.

A doubt. Both menu E and F have identical parameters. Do we have to change ADDESS 99 in both menus?

Furio.