PINNED ZXD2400 Old + New 0-60V 0-50A Power Supply & Charger

[Burgerman]

Mines 2nd one is still lost at sea.

[steves1977uk]

Still waiting for my 2nd one too BM, maybe they got tired rowing!

Steve

[Burgerman]

Maybe it sunk.

[ex-Gooserider]

Totally agree on Andersons being safer, and about the colors - I normally use black SB-50's when I use that size. (But banana jacks do have their uses...)

However SB-50's seem big and clunky when doing things that have smaller wire sizes and currents, so I also use a lot of the small 15/30/45 size Power-Poles... I will also use the larger 75A PowerPoles when doing more than two wires in one connection... I.e. instead of doing 2 SB-50s like you do on your lead brick chairs, I use 4 PP-75's in a square block... Neater and more compact...

I agree that the way you mounted the SB-50 doesn't get in the way much when you have the power cord plugged into the back, but I usually transport and store stuff with the cord out, in which case the SB-50 is sticking out much farther than the socket

The problem with 4mm connectors and batteries is that you can short them out as well as connect in reverse, pull out by mistake, ad they dont like big currents.

So an anderson is safer all round!

The only place there was room... Dur to internal restrictions and space on the rear. Just needs a small hacksaw. dremmel, file. And 2x countersunk, allen screws, M4 x 12 or 16mm. And 4 washers. And a 4mm drill, + countersink bit.

Its not like its in the way as the AC power cable sticks out the rear further regardless... But you could fit that further inside the case flush if you wish.

Note that black and grey are identical, and will mate with each other. All the other colours do not. And theres some shown here. Theres green, white, red, pink, brown, etc too not shown.

I use grey or black for everything and I have many "thngs"/cables/adapters as you never know what you need to connect to what!

[Burgerman]

I agree that the way you mounted the SB-50 doesn't get in the way much when you have the power cord plugged into the back, but I usually transport and store stuff with the cord out, in which case the SB-50 is sticking out much farther than the socket

12mm or under half an inch? But you CAN mount it 12mm further back into the case, so flush... If you wish. Just drill the holes in a different place.

I almost did that, but the bit sticking out is easier to find and get the right way around when feeling behind to plug a new cable/ thing in on the bench.

[ex-Gooserider]

Another thing I've noticed, is that the original unit had several areas inside the case that were insulated with what looks like a fiberglass sheet.

The fancy case doesn't have any of this sheet insulation, and I'm wondering if I should try to move it over or come up with some substitute.

The fancy case is taller than the original, and gives more room between the electronics and the sheet metal along the top and bottom (edges of the circuit boards) However the width is the same and several of the big inductors on the side opposite the board we modify are all but touching (in some cases I'm not sure they aren't) the case.... The insulation on those coils looks like just magnet wire enamel with a layer of thin tape over it, which isn't very tough. I don't think the results of those coils shorting to the case would be happy making, though it might be 'entertaining'.....

ex-Gooserider

[Burgerman]

They dont touch... Should be fine.

Also, download/file.php?id=9085&mode=view

It may stick out 12mm, but the power connector with its screws, and fan cover screws stick out 5 already. So its only 7 more! A little over a 1/4 inch extra!

[ex-Gooserider]

Possibly manufacturing variations, but on MY unit if they aren't touching, they certainly are to close for comfort... With the two side panels on the unit, and the bottom loosely installed, I have trouble sliding a sheet of printer paper between the coils and the panel. I have to push the panel out from the inside to get it in between, and then when I let go it is a tighter sliding fit than would be 'right' for measuring with a micrometer....

The 'problem coil' is the one that is mounted vertically between the yellow wrapped transformer and the 3 large caps at the front...

ex-Gooserider

They dont touch... Should be fine.

Also, download/file.php?id=9085&mode=view

It may stick out 12mm, but the power connector with its screws, and fan cover screws stick out 5 already. So its only 7 more! A little over a 1/4 inch extra!

[Gnomatic]

I used an Anderson on the right rear of the fancy case. Opposite side of BM's.

My cutout was clean but then realized just a tad too small for an SB50. So then I had to use a file to make room, which gummed it up a bit. Still, not the end of the world.

[ex-Gooserider]

I decided that I was not comfortable with the coils being next to the bare metal of the fancy case, so I peeled the yellow fiberglass insulation sheets off the original case and put them in approximately the corresponding locations on the fancy case... While it only seemed really necessary for the large piece next to the coils, once I started, I just went ahead and moved all the pieces over...

It was pretty easy, once the peel was started with a razor scraper, the insulation just pulled off. Most of the double-stick tape that held it on peeled off with it, so I just stuck it on the new case without needing any added tape.


Quick question - the original harness with the rear plug had a couple of capacitors across the DC output terminals. I didn't see them in the pictures of installing the terminals on the mod kit, but just wanted to make sure they aren't used....

ex-Gooserider

[shirley_hkg]

Quick question - the original harness with the rear plug had a couple of capacitors across the DC output terminals. I didn't see them in the pictures of installing the terminals on the mod kit, but just wanted to make sure they aren't used....

ex-Gooserider

Can you post photo of them ? I want to know that too .

They are small and kit developer said NOT NEEDED .

[Burgerman]

Small and ceramic? Are there just in case to remove high frequency noise. Large and electrolytic? Like LARGE are for low frequency noise removal. The small ceramic filter ones are really not going to do anything much.

[stevelawiw]

Thanks to Shirley for sending me a psu, I've fitted the new case with the anderson on the back, but I can't get any power out of it.
When it powers up it displays the volts and amps I've set it to flashing for 5 seconds and then I get this display

Any Ideas anybody? Initially I didn't fit the front fan as I've put a 25mm unit at the back but Williams post said leaving a fan out causes an error so I put the front one back in, it didn't make any difference

[martin007]

Today the battery charger has arrived.

Thank you very much shirley_hkg!

Tomorrow I will upload some photographs.
I have paid € 28.07 of customs tax.

[Burgerman]

Any Ideas anybody? Initially I didn't fit the front fan as I've put a 25mm unit at the back but Williams post said leaving a fan out causes an error so I put the front one back in, it didn't make any difference

Shirley will be along. What did you do?

If you turn and press till it flashes can you set a more sensible voltage?

Did you read to online translations?

[martin007]

What connectors do I have to buy?

conector.jpg (19.78 KiB) Viewed 7230 times

[steves1977uk]

What connectors do I have to buy?

Those unscrew for M8 terminal rings to go on, then put the plastic cover caps back on.

Steve

[martin007]

Can you upload an image of the M8 terminals?

[steves1977uk]

eBay! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-YELLOW-IN ... XQXQxRauNQ

Steve

[martin007]

OK.

[shirley_hkg]

Thanks to Shirley for sending me a psu, I've fitted the new case with the anderson on the back, but I can't get any power out of it.
When it powers up it displays the volts and amps I've set it to flashing for 5 seconds and then I get this display

psu_front.jpg

Any Ideas anybody?

I deliberately disabled the OUTPUT ON POWER UP , so you could check amp / volt first .

Press knot to start .

Can also change it back in menu 9

[shirley_hkg]

What connectors do I have to buy?

Those unscrew for M8 terminal rings to go on, then put the plastic cover caps back on.

Steve

He charges at low amp . Need no terminals . Loosen plastic knob , and insert bare wires through hole of power pole . Then re-tighten plastic knot .

It also accepts 4mm banana terminal too .

[Burgerman]

24V battery on one end. And loose 4mm terminals on the other. Recipe for sparks, smoke and fire!

[stevelawiw]

I deliberately disabled the OUTPUT ON POWER UP , so you could check amp / volt first .

Press knot to start .

Can also change it back in menu 9

Hi Shirley, I tried pressing the button while it was flashing the volst/amps I'd set it too, and it reverts to the screen in my picture above, I turned on auto power up in menu 9 but it made no difference, after 5 secs I get the screen in the picture above. I was wondering if the -3.66 was significant, does it show a particular error maybe?

[stevelawiw]

Shirley will be along. What did you do?

If you turn and press till it flashes can you set a more sensible voltage?

Did you read to online translations?

I can set any voltage/amps I want, but it makes no difference. I have read the translated instructions several times! Maybe I'll read them again, I might have missed something important

[shirley_hkg]

Complicated .

Check all connections of modification first .

[shirley_hkg]

Reset to factory setting @#7 .

[steves1977uk]

Got my 2nd PSU today! Many thanks Shirley

Steve

[stevelawiw]

Ok I've done the factory reset. Now when I turn it on it's back to 5v 3a flashing for 5 secs, then it reverts to all zeros.
Do I need to do an Automatic Calibration?

Power on the power supply, and enter the power-off state, do not short-circuit the output end, hold the knob for 15 seconds , turn on the power, wait for the white 0 word to appear and then let go , it has entered the automatic calibration mode.

I can't get this to work for me, if I hold the button in for 15 secs, it turns off after 3, so I keep holding it in, then let it go, then hold it in again, if I keep holding it in, I get the 00000 where I could enter 00088, but if I keep holding the button in it turns off again, I never see a white 0 word

[stevelawiw]

Hi Steve that's just greedy