Burgerman wrote:You can re use the centre fuse, or breaker if it has one. But it will now not go in the centre, it will go in the + 24V end of the battery. Its likely easier to just throw all the olf stuff away, and fit a new fuse in your new wiring.
A 100A or 125A midi fuse (ebay) and 2 ring terminals and a bit of heatshrink is all you will need. About 2 uk pounds...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MIDI-STRIP-L ... zCXWSQFKKw
You can add the fuse holder too if you want instead of heatshrink. But its a bit bigger and not so neat.
The ring terminals you need are ones with a 6 ot 6.6mm bolt hole and a 10sqmm cable size. And you will solder them on. You will crimp them, first to hold in position to make it easy. One of those turbo cigarette lighters with a small pencil flame. Takes 5 seconds per joint.
Burgerman wrote:Thats all just confusing. Chick all that away in a corner for now, and ignore it. The only bit you want to use is the 24V input connector, with its wires later on.
YOU connect your lithium 24V to the power module. You dont need to figure out how they managed to over complicate it all with 30 wires!
Scooterman wrote:I’ll reply just in case BM is at church.
Yes
between the two extremes






So every thing in the picture that is yellow. I don't need.
Then from the modal plug I put 1 earth and 1 live both with 100amp fuses
expresso wrote:thats for sure very good thickness between the cells - you seem to have alot of spare room then - my problem is very little room to spare if i try to fit the most in there - how thick is that rubber 2mm ?
looks nice
I did think of that BM, or even individually wrapping each cell in one piece rubber. I think either of the methods would work with thinner rubber, but this stuff wouldn't go round corners very neatly. I thought I could score the back to make it bend sharper but in the end did what I did. Your suggestion may be better, I usually discover the best method after I've finished a job and think, "Why didn't I do it like that?Burgerman wrote:You should have made one seperatot longer. To go around the complete pack. But you can do that like a big ring, with some overlap to glue.
And you must have a sheet under the battery too.
".
: Plus I did think they could get all soggy in the english weather.Burgerman wrote:
So every thing in the picture that is yellow. I don't need.
Then from the modal plug I put 1 earth and 1 live both with 100amp fuses
Correct. Just feed the power module 24V with a fuse in the positive wire. Better to use 10 sqmm cable ideally. How thick is the wire coming out of your plug? You may be able to reuse that.
terry2 wrote:@Scooterman
That looks awesome dude

Scooterman wrote:I have a bit more room to play with. I have two battery trays measuring 276mm x 177mm.
terry2 wrote:Scooterman wrote:Look at page 62 in the PL8 manual, there's a diagram.
Sorry. I don't mean the balance wires on page 62. But where to put the connectors to hook up the batteries.
Hi,
Today when I started charging the lifepo battery, the PL8 tripped on SAFETY CODE 17 : Cells No Add Up. The charger starts and when the current reaches 300 mAH this happens; and repeatedly. I am lost. Could someone give any idea.
Thanks.
Furio.
expresso wrote:terry if you post some pics of the Cells and how your doing it etc, - would be easier to see and notice if anything may be out of place etc,
might be easier for others to help you also. if you can -
Hi BM,
I am using the preset you provided, without alteration. One thing I noticed, all the cell voltages are in 3.3v range except cell #5 which is just shy of 3.6v.
But now the charger is working on CV and current @ 1.1 Amp.
Other points you mentioned, I will have to wait.
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