polishing the turd!

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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 29 Jan 2020, 20:21

hi bm i been having an issue getting the wizard prog up and running, well that bit the first download went ok,
the 2nd bit the add on or whatever you call it did not run like the first but goes to a screen that says something about drive c and converting?


READ the instructions carefully. You do not "run" it. You overwrite the original non hacked install directory with the new contents. Then you start the program via a shortcut configured to start it. Preferably as ADMINISTRATOR and if it doesent run correctly, also as WinXP service pack 3.

idk what it meant but tried connecting and it does get comms active and i can read the settings currently on there but i cannot alter anything so guess the 2nd download bit has to work at same time but idk how to do that?

Read instructions in the README file...

on another problem i have looked through my collection of wiring harness bit and found the right cables and ends for the 2 motors and brakes to connect to the brain

Do we mean POWER MODULE?

my only problem is finding the correct connector for the main power lead to brain?

Do me mean the battery to power module connector? Get one from any invacare chair, or make up one with a new connector via dynamic.

is there a common cable type as it dont look like a standard enclosed lucar type and i would like to get it right first time,also should the brain be bolted to a heatsink?

It is a power module, and it may help, not essential for normal use. In sport use a fan is usually added.

the original vr2 bolts to a ali heatsink but the new brain is to big for that can i do away with heatsink if its in good vented space?cheers for any helps,peace

Do we mean power module? Yes it will be OK. But heat sink will help if you run into power rollback situations in heavy use.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby LROBBINS » 29 Jan 2020, 21:17

Unlike P&G stuff, the main computer in the DX is in the Master Remote - i.e. Joystick or specialty controls remote. The PM contains only enough smarts to do motor control tasks & communication with other modules. I've never looked inside a DX2-PM, but the older DX-PM had a ribbed die-cast case that served as heat sink. The MOSFETS, well coated by heat conductive grease, were pressed against the case by spring steel fingers. Extra cooling is never amiss, but as long as there's decent air circulation the Dynamic DX series PMs are pretty good all on their own.

The DX connectors, both the DX bus connectors and the main power connectors are proprietary, not made by Dynamic but made for Dynamic (for the power connectors, by Positronic). The manuals give all the specs and part numbers, and Rosstron http://www.rosstron.com/ carries connectors and contact kits. The are not really set up for web-based shopping, so figure out from the Dynamic manuals what PNs you need and send them a list to get a quote. Shipping from the U.S. isn't cheap, but in the rest of the world Dynamic distributors sell only to manufacturers and DME suppliers, so Rosstron ends up being a pretty good deal.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 30 Jan 2020, 14:02

Burgerman wrote:
hi bm i been having an issue getting the wizard prog up and running, well that bit the first download went ok,
the 2nd bit the add on or whatever you call it did not run like the first but goes to a screen that says something about drive c and converting?


READ the instructions carefully. You do not "run" it. You overwrite the original non hacked install directory with the new contents. Then you start the program via a shortcut configured to start it. Preferably as ADMINISTRATOR and if it doesent run correctly, also as WinXP service pack 3.

idk what it meant but tried connecting and it does get comms active and i can read the settings currently on there but i cannot alter anything so guess the 2nd download bit has to work at same time but idk how to do that?

Read instructions in the README file...

on another problem i have looked through my collection of wiring harness bit and found the right cables and ends for the 2 motors and brakes to connect to the brain

Do we mean POWER MODULE?
hi bm yes i mean the power module i call ecu a brain re cars and sort of similar things no? anyhow i have offered an ebay seller £60 for a joystick and bus lead for pm and power supply and see what they say as i cant keep firing money at it as soon be needing to mot car or find a new one .
re the wizard prog i am still stuck on how to overwrite the program as its something ive zero experience of so maybe simple if you understand computers but i do not my mate who normally helps re comp stuff is busy so i have to wait till saturday and hope my bro can show me shortcut i do not know either,see i do try but worry i will delete or damage something if i say yes to the wrong thing! banghead i prefer engines i understand them better,anyhow thanks for reply cheers

my only problem is finding the correct connector for the main power lead to brain?

Do me mean the battery to power module connector? Get one from any invacare chair, or make up one with a new connector via dynamic.

is there a common cable type as it dont look like a standard enclosed lucar type and i would like to get it right first time,also should the brain be bolted to a heatsink?

It is a power module, and it may help, not essential for normal use. In sport use a fan is usually added.

the original vr2 bolts to a ali heatsink but the new brain is to big for that can i do away with heatsink if its in good vented space?cheers for any helps,peace

Do we mean power module? Yes it will be OK. But heat sink will help if you run into power rollback situations in heavy use.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 30 Jan 2020, 16:31

As lenny explained, the confusion is because the brain as you call it lives in the power module on PG stuff. So you can always swap a joystick etc. Without reprogramming it.

The brain on a Dynamic system is in the Joystick. So not the power module. You cannot swap a joystick on a dynamic setup without redoing the programming because the power module is not the brain...
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 30 Jan 2020, 16:59

Burgerman wrote:As lenny explained, the confusion is because the brain as you call it lives in the power module on PG stuff. So you can always swap a joystick etc. Without reprogramming it.

The brain on a Dynamic system is in the Joystick. So not the power module. You cannot swap a joystick on a dynamic setup without redoing the programming because the power module is not the brain...

hi bm yes i get lennys post i just hope bro can sort the computer bit but in the meantime i think i have found the joystick if someone could confirm before i say yes just to be on the safe side id be grateful linky
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202830783059?ul_noapp=true
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby steves1977uk » 30 Jan 2020, 17:05

I'm guessing Dynamic LiNX is the same setup since I remember the WCS OT mentioning that the powerchair they supply would need to have two joysticks connected because without the Master Remote the chair won't work. Dynamic stuff seems more complex unlike P&G stuff where you'd only need one joystick connected which I prefer.

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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 30 Jan 2020, 18:03

I dont do much with Dynamic, but as far as I know that should work.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby rover220 » 30 Jan 2020, 18:21

steves1977uk wrote:I'm guessing Dynamic LiNX is the same setup since I remember the WCS OT mentioning that the powerchair they supply would need to have two joysticks connected because without the Master Remote the chair won't work. Dynamic stuff seems more complex unlike P&G stuff where you'd only need one joystick connected which I prefer.

Steve


if you are using a third party controller/joystick then you could just use a rem500 display and avoid having a 2nd joystick on the chair
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 30 Jan 2020, 18:37

Burgerman wrote:I dont do much with Dynamic, but as far as I know that should work.

thats cool i just got the deal £60 for joystick and the bus cables so worth messaging some of the sellers if you patient enough and skint enough to bother,of which im both most of the time!
but its worth it as she has fun and feels safer in the mudmonster than any of the other chairs this time of year and wants to use it more rather than less which is nice means we go out more and further and not sat at home bored and hurting :thumbdown: i shall post progress pics later if i make it work,peace
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby LROBBINS » 30 Jan 2020, 18:42

Rover is quite right, the REM500 essentially replaces the older Specialty Controls Remote.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 30 Jan 2020, 18:55

LiNX run away!
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby steves1977uk » 31 Jan 2020, 01:17

rover220 wrote:
steves1977uk wrote:I'm guessing Dynamic LiNX is the same setup since I remember the WCS OT mentioning that the powerchair they supply would need to have two joysticks connected because without the Master Remote the chair won't work. Dynamic stuff seems more complex unlike P&G stuff where you'd only need one joystick connected which I prefer.

Steve


if you are using a third party controller/joystick then you could just use a rem500 display and avoid having a 2nd joystick on the chair


Thanks for clarifying that rover. :thumbup: But I'm avoiding any chair with the LiNX setup.

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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 31 Jan 2020, 21:06

hi all well i have the bits coming to upgrade the mudmonster power module and joystick to which ends today i fabricated a new joystick holder/arm and took it round the corner to a local garage and got it welded nice and tidy and strong and also got them to weld the broken mount on the puma 40 and have refitted it and boy it makes a big difference now its not wobbling all over the shop! still not worked out the program bit but bro is here tomorrow and im hoping he will assist me.
a question if anyone can answer, aluminium in this case the centre footplate on the puma 40 is bent it has multiple parts some mild steel zinc coated and easy enough to straighten but the ali seems to have a memory as it where you can bend it back to where it should be but it shifts back the other way after a little time,would using heat help or melt it? i would like to mend it rather than buy another if possible,cheers czy
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby ex-Gooserider » 04 Feb 2020, 04:48

Aluminum is tricky - there are many different alloys with different sorts of properties but in general you have to be careful bending it when cold as often it will crack... Heating it can help, but that removes the heat treating w/o a lot of effort to re-treat it....

Also it doesn't do the nice color changing that steel does when you heat it, so it is very easy to go from part to puddle w/ no obvious change... One trick that can be used to help with this is to use an oxy-acetelene rig, and start with a very sooty flame to coat the part w/ soot - then add some oxy to a neutral flame and heat - when the carbon coating disappears STOP!!! it is at about the right temperature, and any hotter will start melting...

Another thing to be wary of is to be CERTAIN that the parts are aluminum.... Some times things are made from magnesium which looks a lot like aluminum but gets MUCH more exciting when you heat it :o :shock: - there were some old VW tranny cases that were made from magnesium, and they caused a lot of excitement for the guys that tried to melt them down....

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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 04 Feb 2020, 15:07

ex-Gooserider wrote:Aluminum is tricky - there are many different alloys with different sorts of properties but in general you have to be careful bending it when cold as often it will crack... Heating it can help, but that removes the heat treating w/o a lot of effort to re-treat it....

Also it doesn't do the nice color changing that steel does when you heat it, so it is very easy to go from part to puddle w/ no obvious change... One trick that can be used to help with this is to use an oxy-acetelene rig, and start with a very sooty flame to coat the part w/ soot - then add some oxy to a neutral flame and heat - when the carbon coating disappears STOP!!! it is at about the right temperature, and any hotter will start melting...

Another thing to be wary of is to be CERTAIN that the parts are aluminum.... Some times things are made from magnesium which looks a lot like aluminum but gets MUCH more exciting when you heat it :o :shock: - there were some old VW tranny cases that were made from magnesium, and they caused a lot of excitement for the guys that tried to melt them down....

ex-Gooserider

hi ex goose after many hours of struggle mostly just to get it apart where the threaded bar that lock footplate in position was bent in the middle of the tube it runs through then i photo the mechanism in situ and at every stage of disassembly and then have piece by fiddly piece straightened and re aligned the steel parts and they look ok,the ali parts i used some stiff wood and formers and reshaped the whole bent end back to near as dam it straight i did try heat but my small blow torch is not enough to make any difference but just awaiting new threaded bar in post and i can fit it back on and see if it works now not got to be perfectly in line just as long as it stays locked in place and not interfere with casters! ive never seen a chair with so many little components all with tiny slide in fixings and one screw for most bits but a bugger when they all get bent!
then i need to work out the setting to make park brakes come on quicker as it rolls back on slopes before brake comes on but is very different to the pg drives prog my only experience of such and quite daunting volume of settings czy
still not got past loading the wizard bit and bro could nt figure it either! banghead
got the mudmonster all fitted up with its new system and now its locked and i cant program it!!!!!!!!! banghead banghead
and all cos im not good at computers :thumbdown:
i need :joint
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 04 Feb 2020, 16:50

No what you need is an occasional full stop. So we can read it! :chillpill
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby steves1977uk » 04 Feb 2020, 17:37

Duke it's easy to get the programming software to work, unless you have Windows in dummy mode which would explain why you're having issues! czy

You installed the Dynamic Wizard software first, yes? Then extract the contents of the zip file into C:\Wizard5 overwriting all files. Once you've done that run the Wizard software and you'll be able to program the chair. :thumbup:

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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 04 Feb 2020, 17:49

You need to overwite it in admin mode, and may need to mod a shortcut to run it in compatibility mode for xp service pack 3 or whatever. And dont install the dongle driver.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Viz » 04 Feb 2020, 19:55

Evening all. @Duke mate hope you don't mind but I joined so that I could read all the stuff and if needed ask questions. I will be round tomorrow morning/mid day to sort it for you mate.

Now I am going to be doing a lot of reading I think :dance :dance :lol:
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 05 Feb 2020, 17:30

hi again all well im back with yet more puzzles, the new joystick is invacare rem 24 sd controller and looking at the online manual it seems the xlr socket is not used for the programming but a smaller socket and tiny plug thing are needed i think anyone have access to such a lead?.
i did get just the basic wizard prog to read the dx2 on the puma so am sure it communicates fine,
but nothing when plugged into the mudmonster so im only guessing i need another type of cable? heres link showing the socket its page 7 if it dont go there from link,cheers for any helps
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/10501 ... e=7#manual
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 05 Feb 2020, 17:36

You need a thing called a DWIZ that connects to the programming plug. They are orange. And your cable connects to that. Or theres a diy version on the site somewhere. Or maybe woodygb can make you one.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby LROBBINS » 05 Feb 2020, 19:03

If I remember correctly the DWIZ is just an RS232 to Hirose socket (the little one on the REM) adapter. If your PC doesn't have an old-fashioned serial port, you will also need a USB to serial adapter (and some of them work well and some don't). Woody surely can advise.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby rover220 » 05 Feb 2020, 20:49

dwiz is required for rem550 and all rem4xx remotes
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 05 Feb 2020, 22:30

LROBBINS wrote:If I remember correctly the DWIZ is just an RS232 to Hirose socket (the little one on the REM) adapter. If your PC doesn't have an old-fashioned serial port, you will also need a USB to serial adapter (and some of them work well and some don't). Woody surely can advise.


hi i have this cable and it has a strange adaptor type thing which i think maybe a usb adaptor? i cant believe ive to find yet another cable before the beast will work again! heres pics of the ends of cable i have if you could advise on needs to adapt it would be great,nothing is ever as simple as it seems! banghead
mudmonster control system 001.JPG
mudmonster control system 002.JPG
mudmonster control system 003.JPG
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 05 Feb 2020, 22:32

the rest
mudmonster control system 004.JPG
mudmonster control system 007.JPG
mudmonster control system 008.JPG
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 05 Feb 2020, 23:16

you have everything you need.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby woodygb » 05 Feb 2020, 23:48

Image

You do not need the 3 PIN DWIZ-ADAPT ...You just want the homemade plug that is glued into it ... under it is the 5 pin Hirose socket .


See pic of adapter on the bottom right of pic below.

Image


So ...remove this homemade plug and connect it directly into the Hirose socket of your joystick.
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 06 Feb 2020, 00:01

Woody is explaining that your particular joystick already has that Orange DWIZ converter thingy "built in" so to speak. Thats the strange socket.

So you need that same cable, but not the orange thing. Dont throw it away, because many of those joysticks from dynamic, such as the more advanced ones like the REM550 etc do need that. And they are not easy to get! ££
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby duke1 » 06 Feb 2020, 00:06

woodygb wrote:Image

You do not need the 3 PIN DWIZ-ADAPT ...You just want the homemade plug that is glued into it ... under it is the 5 pin Hirose socket .


See pic of adapter on the bottom right of pic below.

Image


So ...remove this homemade plug and connect it directly into the Hirose socket of your joystick.


cheers woody i shall have another look tomorrow it be great to have helpful folk to ask so thanks and i shall report any progress if i get anywhere,i just hope it all works good now and stays that way,peace cheers
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Re: polishing the turd!

Postby Burgerman » 06 Feb 2020, 13:26

Trust me it all works! :thumbup:
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