PINNED ZXD2400 Old + New 0-60V 0-50A Power Supply & Charger

[woodygb]

I think that it should be like this... assuming that you wish to charge both batteries at 24v ( 28.8v or whatever ) ..

[Burgerman]

If they are really ruined, they can go into thermal runaway while charging even if connected correctly. You would see that as the current dropping low to say unded 2 amps as they become charged, and at some point the current begins to rise again.

This can even happen to healthy batteries if they are warm... And that 14.1V per battery is for 20C. And its the MAX allowed at 20C. If the temperature is above that the voltage should be lowered.

Remember this is battery temperature not room temperature. And a battery will be say 3 to 5 centigrade above room temp if charging at a high rate or after serious use.

[Burgerman]

As I said. You are carging a single 12V battery at 28.2V And it will be destroyed if not melted. And is a fire and explosion hazard. You really cant do that.

[woodygb]

This diagram might make the connections clearer....I have removed the confusing + and - signs from the SB50 plugs at the connection point.

The yellow is the middle connection between the 2 off 12v batteries...wired like this in SERIES you get 24v.

[optical10]

[quote="Burgerman"]As I said. You are carging a single 12V battery at 28.2V And it will be destroyed if not melted. And is a fire and explosion hazard. You really cant do that. [/quote

Ok thanks, looks like I'm in the market for some Lithium lifeo4's?

[optical10]

This diagram might make the connections clearer....I have removed the confusing + and - signs from the SB50 plugs at the connection point.

The yellow is the middle connection between the 2 off 12v batteries...wired like this in SERIES you get 24v.

wiring bats3.jpg

Great thx, that's alot clear for when I choose the next set. Guess lithiums the way to go?

[Burgerman]

Easy check. Stick a voltmeter on the two wires you are about to charge. If its around 12 to 13 then thats one batter. If its 24 to 26 the thats both in series.

I expect that battery to be deformed. Bulged. Distorted.

[steves1977uk]

Guys i'm getting a bad rotten egg / sulfur odor from the Salsa r2 two original 60 Ah BATTERY ETERNITY G 04 12 055 whilst charging! Also they loss charge immediately after a charge.
Have I damaged a cell beyond a recovery even with a deep long charge with this charger at
"12A
,28.20V
.3A
27.0V" over a week or am I wasting my time [the smell indoors is killing me] so should think about Lithium replacement mod?

Did you set the ZXD2400 PSU into 3-stage charge mode? If so, then the current should drop to the termination point unless the batteries are completely knackered.

Steve

[optical10]

Easy check. Stick a voltmeter on the two wires you are about to charge. If its around 12 to 13 then thats one batter. If its 24 to 26 the thats both in series.

I expect that battery to be deformed. Bulged. Distorted.

The one I was overcharging reads 13.04v, the other 11.54v. They are both out now of the chair and look intact but why would I risk issues down the line, they where loosing charge on the original charger before I wired up the ZXD so good riddens...time for new ones!

[optical10]

Guys i'm getting a bad rotten egg / sulfur odor from the Salsa r2 two original 60 Ah BATTERY ETERNITY G 04 12 055 whilst charging! Also they loss charge immediately after a charge.
Have I damaged a cell beyond a recovery even with a deep long charge with this charger at
"12A
,28.20V
.3A
27.0V" over a week or am I wasting my time [the smell indoors is killing me] so should think about Lithium replacement mod?

Did you set the ZXD2400 PSU into 3-stage charge mode? If so, then the current should drop to the termination point unless the batteries are completely knackered.

Steve

Yes I made sure the white square was in the upper left position but its a mute point these batts where loosing power right after charge on the original charger. I just wired them to try the ZXD to see if I could recover them but added to their demiss by overcharging already dieing batts

[Burgerman]

They were not losing a charge. They had diminished capacity.

As a battery ages, starting from the month you fit it, its capacity decreases day on day. The deeper you discharge it, and the worse you charge it, and the warmer the weather, the faster it deteriorates. One day, you begin to notice and like everyone you decide the battery has failed. In fact they seldom fail. They just become smaller batteries day after day until YOU NOTICE!

If you are the type that never pushes the range or never goes long distances, only 30% of the original capacity may remain before you notice. If someone that covers distance, regularly, were to use the same battery, then they would notice when the range fell to 80% and that may be 8 to 10 months with GOOD batteries charged correctly. And much less if not. But they could give the 80% good batteries to someone that doesent need that range, and they may see no problem for another 5 years or more.

It all depends...

[optical10]

I see. The reason I said losing charge, incorrectly not explaining myself, is that the capacity meter on the controller was dropping without even moving from a full overnight charge after not going long distances and not very often each day/ month. I notice first this week after weeks not using it when the R-net display reported low warning going only down my street, so I had to turn back! The previous trip was a good run for a hours with no issues so you can imagine my surprise it dying like that on the next run!

[Burgerman]

That battery fuel guage tells you practically nothing useful. It certainly doesent tell you the battery state of charge. Its there mostly to make users feel better. Its nothing more than a volt meter that averages over time. It has no idea of the actual state of charge. Other than straight after charge. Or much too late when it drops off a cliff. Certainly its not consistent or very useful. But it sounds like your batteries are knackered regardless. And one of them certainly is!

[terry2]

English link... https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000385493813.html

Steve

Which one do I chose dude? And has this one got all the modes done?

0V to 120V 0A to 25A
0V to 60V 0A to 50A

Thanks.

I hope this is the last time I buy a power supply

[LROBBINS]

You will want the 0-60V, 0-50A. You can use either the "electronically-modified in original case", or at the cost of some more work re-mount that in the "fancy" aluminum case (the latter may require extending the wires to the display board). If the noise of the fans bothers you, it is possible to substitute them with quiet, thermostatically controlled fans, but that's also DIY.

[terry2]

You will want the 0-60V, 0-50A. You can use either the "electronically-modified in original case", or at the cost of some more work re-mount that in the "fancy" aluminum case (the latter may require extending the wires to the display board). If the noise of the fans bothers you, it is possible to substitute them with quiet, thermostatically controlled fans, but that's also DIY.

Thank you.

Wonder if this one has the mod already done like Shirley one?
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000385493813.html

I don't mind the fan as I'm hard of hearing

Found this on https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3284925 ... 15607%2353

Any good?

[Burgerman]

Like the shirley one? Yes. Price is a little extreme.

The other one? Who knows...

[LROBBINS]

What Burgerman said. Price does include DHL shipping. That one already has the fancy case, so the only thing you might want to add is an Anderson socket - not very difficult. Also has the one in original steel case for a little less - $248.

[terry2]

Like the shirley one? Yes. Price is a little extreme.

The other one? Who knows...

Thank you.

What Burgerman said. Price does include DHL shipping. That one already has the fancy case, so the only thing you might want to add is an Anderson socket - not very difficult. Also has the one in original steel case for a little less - $248.

Will look at that one as well.

£220 +VAT and tax if they get me

[Burgerman]

When they were cheap, I bought 2 just in case... Obviously!
Half of that price but needed assembling into the fancy case (DIY way).

Both were easy and have been well behaved so far. Programming takes a little learning and isnt very intuitive. Till you finally get it. Then it just clicks and is all obvious! Also hard to explain.

[terry2]

When they were cheap, I bought 2 just in case... Obviously!
Half of that price but needed assembling into the fancy case (DIY way).

Both were easy and have been well behaved so far. Programming takes a little learning and isnt very intuitive. Till you finally get it. Then it just clicks and is all obvious! Also hard to explain.

I am buying a Chargery S1200 Power Supply. RC forums says it's good. Just got to find a place cheap delivery.
And it's been tested by this guy.


youtu.be/kiAbAHXWpuY

[expresso]

[terry2]

:thumbup:

They want £60 shipping

Time to google my ass off

[expresso]

shipping is always a problem -

[Burgerman]

Personally I wouldnt. Its just a couple of repurposed server supplies I think.
The ZXD charger is built like a tank and designed for telecoms use in racks 24/7 with reliability and we KNOW that it is good. And has a 3 stage charger built in too for free!!
But nobody listens so carry on!

Also? When does he test it?

[expresso]

Why wouldn't you ?

[Burgerman]

Above I hadnt finished...

[expresso]

Not everyone needs all the features but if u do need the features then by all means.

[expresso]

Nothing. Wrong with server psu. They r build to run. 24/7. Also I been using them for 5 years now. Simple plug and play. But I get it something to ticker with

[Burgerman]

Some server supplies are quality. Some not so much. I would want to test it. I mean measure its ouput, turn on measure any spikes, measure noise or ripple or AC on the output. Remember you had a PL8 die years ago? I never have so far. And would want the flexibility of the ZXD one too for benc testing, and running stuff other than chargers. I know the ZXD ones are good as I measured and tested.

I am not saying yours are not good. Just that its an unknown.

I do know that coolice ones seem pretty good. At leaat thats what I was told by a very knowledgable electronics guy here. http://www.coolice.co.uk/cccases/coolice-psu-s.html

UNTESTED by me...