Finally got a Entervan Grand Voyager

[dannos85]

Hey Guys, I finally got a used Entervan.
Never imagined getting one until this poped up.
There was a few scratches here and there but they soon polished out with 3M cutting paste. (thanks father inlaw)
Now I just need some nice wheels like BM for example, Im not usually a copy cat but if i can get some of those rims i will. What PCD size does my entervan require? More to the point, who still sells Katana Outlaws?

I have been looking around web sites at different wheels but hard to find deep dish rims to fit...

[ex-Gooserider]

Congratulations - looks nice... I'm anxiously awaiting my own Entervan, as it is off being converted right now, hopefully it will be back by the end of the month, then I get to go back to the joys of teenage years and do some "driver ed" and get my license re-instated...

I'm getting a bit of a deal, where I'm working with Mass. Rehab, and they are paying for the conversion, we just had to pay for the unconverted van - it is a 2010 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 17K miles on it, and getting it slightly used saved a lot of money on the price...

I'm also getting the parts to do the BM style Anderson outlets so I'll be able to charge my chair while driving...

ex-Gooserider

[Burgerman]

Those wheels are no longer made.

They are 18 inch, 8.5 wide, 114.3 pcd, and ET42 from memory. With 245/50 18 tyres. Wider rims, will hit door or rear suspensiob etc. The tyre diameter is slightly larger but doesent actually hit anything. It gets close at the front.

Whels that fit honda lexus mazda mitsubishi 5x114 pcd will fit...

I am looking at 20 inch mitsubishi wheels...

[Burgerman]

5 X 114.3 hERES A SHORT LIST OF POSSIBILITIES...

CHRYSLER JEEP CHEROKEE <99 5X114.3 35 71.5
CHRYSLER JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE <99 5X114.3 35 71.5
CHRYSLER VOYAGER 5X114.3 35 71.5
DAEWOO LEGENZA 5X114.3 35-42 56.5
DAIHATSU TERIOS 5X114.3
FORD FALCON AU> 5X114.3
FORD FALCON PRE AU 5X114.3
FORD LASER SR2 5X114.3
FORD PROBE 88-92 5X114.3 59.6
FORD PROBE 93-96 5X114.3 67.1
FORD TELSTAR 88> 5X114.3
HONDA ACCORD 01> 5X114.3
HONDA CIVIC TYPE R 5X114.3
HONDA CRV 97> 5X114.3 64.1
HONDA INTEGRA TYPE R 5X114.3
HONDA LEGEND 91> 5X114.3
HONDA NSX 5X114.3
HONDA ODYSSEY 95> 5X114.3 70.3
HONDA PRELUDE 97-01 5X114.3 70.3
HONDA S2000 99> 5X114.3 70.3
HYUNDAI GRANDUER 5X114.3
HYUNDAI SANTA FE 00> 5X114.3 35-45 67.1
HYUNDAI TIBURON 01> 5X114.3
HYUNDAI TRAJET 00> 5X114.3 35-45 67.1
HYUNDAI XG 00> 5X114.3 35-45 67.1
INFINITI I30 95-97 5X114.3 66.1
INFINITI J30 92-97 5X114.3 66.1
INFINITI Q45 90> 5X114.3 66.1
KIA SEDONA 99> 5X114.3 35-42 67.1
KIA CARNIVAL 99> 5X114.3 35-42 67.1
LANDROVER FREELANDER 5X114.3 35
LEXUS ES 300 92> 5X114.3 38-45 60.1
LEXUS GS 300 93> 5X114.3 38-45 60.1
LEXUS GS 400 93> 5X114.3 38-45 60.1
LEXUS GS 430 01> 5X114.3 60.1
LEXUS IS 200 99> 5X114.3 38-45 60.1
LEXUS IS 300 99> 5X114.3 38-45 60.1
LEXUS LS 400 91-94 5X114.3 38-45 60.1
LEXUS LS 430 5X114.3
LEXUS RX 300 00> 5X114.3 38-45 60.1
LEXUS RX 470 92> 5X114.3 38-45 60.1
LEXUS SC 300 92-96 5X114.3 60.1
LEXUS SC 400 91> 5X114.3 35-42 60.1
LEXUS SC 430 5X114.3
MAZDA 3 5X114.3
MAZDA 6 5X114.3
MAZDA 626 88> 5X114.3
MAZDA 929 87> 5X114.3
MAZDA ASTINA V6 5X114.3
MAZDA CX7 5X114.3
MAZDA MPV 5X114.3
MAZDA MX5 05> 5X114.3
MAZDA MX6 5X114.3
MAZDA RX7 87> 5X114.3
MAZDA RX8 5X114.3
MAZDA TRIBUTE 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI 3000GT 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI FTO 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI GRANDIS 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI GTO 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI LANCER CG-CH VRX 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI LANCER EVO 4> 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI MAGNA 90> 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI OUTLANDER 5X114.3
MITSUBISHI STARION TURBO 86-89 5X114.3 67.1
MITSUBISHI VERADA 5X114.3
NISSAN 200SX S14 5X114.3
NISSAN 200SX S15 5X114.3
NISSAN 300ZX 5X114.3
NISSAN 350Z 5X114.3
NISSAN MAXIMA 90> 5X114.3
NISSAN MURANO 5X114.3
NISSAN SKYLINE R32 TURBO 5X114.3
NISSAN SKYLINE R33 TURBO 5X114.3
NISSAN SKYLINE R34 5X114.3
SUBARU SUBARU SVX 5X114.3
SUZUKI GRAND VITARA 05> 5X114.3
SUZUKI SWIFT SPORTS 5X114.3
SUZUKI SX4 5X114.3
TOYOTA AVALON 95-97 5X114.3 60.1
TOYOTA CAMRY 92> 5X114.3
TOYOTA CRESSIDA 89-92 5X114.3 60.1
TOYOTA MR-2 90-92 5X114.3 60.1
TOYOTA MR-2 92-95 5X114.3 60.1
TOYOTA RAV4 5X114.3
TOYOTA SOARER 5X114.3
TOYOTA SUPRA 93-96 5X114.3 60.1
TOYOTA TARAGO 5X114.3

[dannos85]

Good luck with your new car ex-Gooserider, sounds like you know the right people. Nice low mileage aswell, sounds great!

Thanks for the SHORT list BM, Now I have the idea of what fits.
Let me know if you change your wheels to 20's , Id buy those katanas off you if the price is right I found some Dynamics alloys but i dont know whats good as far a build quality if im honest & those are only 8j on the width.

Chrysler 300c rims are nice but not sure about the width or even if they look right.

I had to buy a new battery for my car, its one of those 6-pack style marine batteries made by exide. So far so good!

[Burgerman]

For 245/50 18 tyres you really need 8.5j width.
For 245/40 20 tyres on 20 inch wheels you need 9 inch width.

This size. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-DODGE-AVEN ... 1e63de6cb8

They are available this size and with runflats too.

[dannos85]

Just Last week i got my entervan fitted with SMARTSTEER infrared system. (in cheltenham. enough said)
Car came back, press the lock button 4 times and you get the BEEP so you think your car is safe.
so I think great, Paid for the work.
9 days later I realised the car was not locking, come to think about it I did not hear the locks go down the day the car came home.
Anyway, usuall story, they deny the problem is anything to do with them... "Of course not" they only fitted an infrared system to the electrics in my car, I guess They got a wrong wire?
They had a look at the fuse box, 20a fuel heater fuse blown. changed that and the rest seemed ok. Still No central locking.
So im going to have to book the car into Kings Chrysler where the price starts at £115.00. Not Happy.

Any ideas or experience on this?

[Burgerman]

Non. But the locking system, and the vehicles computer are all linked. You can program it to do all kinds of things. And a cheap £10 reader will allow you to see any errors and what they are.

[dannos85]

Any idea where to purchase a reader for £10.00?
Is there a website or source of information anywhere that explains how to use such equipment?

Just to add another subject what exhaust systems are used on the 2.8 diesel entervan, I had my entervan around my local garage today to have my wheels swapped fronts to opposite rears just to achive even wear all round as the fronts were getting low. While it was up on the ramps i noticed the center exhaust box was bashed and has a hole in it, MOT due febuary so not too concerned right now but if i can get the same to replace it i will be able to have the local garage slide a new one together.

[Burgerman]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=o ... m270.l1313

From 9.99 to about 26 pounds... I have an orange one. 12 uk pounds. Works great on all obd 2 cars.

[Burgerman]

Mines rollx, can order a new one from the US complete or in parts.

Presume that braun will be the same.

Added, not the same as in it will fit (it wont) but the same as in braun can supply a full system.

[ex-Gooserider]

Might try finding a non-chain shop that does exhaust work and have them take a look - The GF's van had a leaky muffler, and she was getting quotes for over $500 for a major replacement from her local shop, and almost as much from the chain shops. Found a local exhaust specialist, and he was able to replace JUST the muffler for a bit over $100...

I'd really be surprised to learn that the conversion companies make their own custom mufflers, but the commercial muffler companies make all sorts of different sizes / shapes, etc. The chain shops only know how to look stuff up by the application, so they would be useless on something like a conversion van that isn't in their books... However the smaller specialists know how to look up the parts by dimensions, and make "almost fits" work - usually for much less than the official parts.

ex-Gooserider

[Burgerman]

The exhaust on the rollx vans is stock other than it has welded in sections to lower it, and to miss relocated parts. And the ones from the bekker right hand drive vans also fit. Since they are actually built with rollx parts in the UK.

Braun will be the same. It should be possible to use a good high street exhaust specialist too.

[ex-Gooserider]

The exhaust on the rollx vans is stock other than it has welded in sections to lower it, and to miss relocated parts. And the ones from the bekker right hand drive vans also fit. Since they are actually built with rollx parts in the UK.

Braun will be the same. It should be possible to use a good high street exhaust specialist too.

Exactly... It just seems the "official" parts want to sell you more than you actually need - the pipes on my GF's van are stainless, and should last the life of the vehicle and then some, her only problem was some rot in one end of the muffler can. However the official Mopar book calls for replacing a bunch of the pipes as well as the muffler - apparently they sell the muffler and at least some of the pipes as a prebuilt unit... The exhaust guy that we went to said there was no point in purchasing the replacement plumbing, instead he simply cut the pipes on each end of the muffler, and welded in a new one at a fraction of the cost...

ex-Gooserider

[dannos85]

My local Garage is very reasonable.
I thought about just getting a center box and have it welded. They are certainly not standard mufflers/boxes on mine, they look like the older 1997-8-9 voyager, flater shape ones and you can get them on ebay for about £30-£40 that would do the job, but if i can find them in stainless steel they will last much longer.

Does it matter??.. about certain types of exhaust box as far as the engine performance? It seems to rev more, so wasting fuel? or maybe its just louder?

As for my central locking, the fuse labeled fuel heater is blown and in actual fact that is the central locking fuse. Replaced and blown again. No locking.
The smartsteer system must be shorting the central locking causing the fuse to blow.
A trip back to the smartsteer dealer is on the cards i think....

[Burgerman]

No boxes at all is best for power and fuel economy. But not at the same time, you have to choose with the accelerator!

There are three types of boxes... First one will likely be a catatonic diverter. So called because while trying to save the planet it diverts all the power. Best thrown away, but then you fail MOTs and they are silly expensive. Unless its a deseasel?

Next boxes can be a baffle type (restrictive and takes away much of the noise and needs to be roughly correct) or absorption type usually used last, - these take away high frequencies and are just a perforated tube wrapped in wool...

As long as you swap the correct type, for a similar ish motor type then they will likely be ok. But using only absorbsion types makes it very loud and "sporty" like a fast bike...

Any restriction in the exhaust causes back pressure which increases the motors pumping losses and decreases both fuel efficiency as well as power. I spent most of my life building race engines for drag cars and bikes, and building nitrous systems, www.nitrous.info fuel injection systems, turbo systems, and computerised dynamometers. All of the previous was to my design as a self employed speed freak. Then I landed in a wheelchair. This and model planes, helis, and other hobbies is where much of my knowledge comes from.

[ex-Gooserider]

Agreed on the pumping losses and such caused by excess back pressure, but in some cases the back pressure can be "tuned" so that it helps pack the cylinder to some extent (usually only in a certain very narrow range of RPM's) Also most engines are designed to have a certain amount of back pressure, and running w/out any can cause issues like burning valves... Absent input of a skilled wrench making other adjustments to compensate, I'd recommend trying to keep the back-pressure to something in the general neighborhood of what comes stock on the car...

ex-Gooserider

[Burgerman]

Pumping losses and back pressure are always a bad thing. The lower the better. But that means noise. Back pressure cannot be tuned, you are refering to resonant tuning. Back pressure means less effective cylinder filling due to less complete cylinder evacuation. And this means lower power and greater contamination of fresh charge with hot exhaust gasses.

By changing the length of the primary header pipes on a race style exhaust with equal length pipes, so that the resonant frequency of the standing waves actually coincides with the point where peak power rpm occurs its possible to increase max power output at a given rpm.

Or by tuning the standing waves to coincide with any unwanted dips in the power curves its possible to fill out the weak areas. Usually this results in it mucking up the peak power though. This is resonant frequency standing wave charging and not back pressure. They are two different things.

The same tricks can be done with intake runner length and air box volume too. By using a combination of the above its possible to get a smooth power curve as well as the best peak power at the same time. Its why I built computerised dynamometer equipment in the first place in the eighties. To accurately measure all this stuff. Increase back pressure always is bad for power and fuel economy.

As for burned valves this is a throwback to the days of carburettors. Re tune motor (exhaust, cam, compression, bigger valves, air box or any of the above) and the carb needs rejetting to correct fuel mixture. Free flowing low back pressure exhaust made the fuel mixture go weak, or "lean" on some bikes or cars... That caused hot exhaust valves which burned.

The entervan and all modern vehicles with a catalytic converter require a very accurately controlled mixture to protect the cat. And as such they all use an oxygen sensor in the exhaust on a closed loop system. This corrects and in fact sets and chooses the mixture at any time you are off (above) idle based on the feedback from the sensor in the exhaust. Idle mixture is different and it is controlled by a screw on the bulkhead, but idle mixture and heat doesent change detectably even with no exhaust. Since there is almost no gas in the exhaust at idle and no back pressure to worry about.

In fact the ultimate goal of any exhaust system designer is a completely silent exhaust, with no back pressure. But its impossible. Even with no boxes and 6 inch diameter pipes and shallow bends there will be some back pressure, and it will be very loud. Check out the drag strip, you see a lot of these!

Road vehicles are further constrained by cost. So 10 to 20 bhp is easily wasted with smaller pipes, small catalytic converter, etc. Even small increases in back pressure cause quite marked decreases in peak power at high revs.

[dannos85]

No boxes at all is best for power and fuel economy. But not at the same time, you have to choose with the accelerator!

There are three types of boxes... First one will likely be a catatonic diverter. So called because while trying to save the planet it diverts all the power. Best thrown away, but then you fail MOTs and they are silly expensive. Unless its a deseasel?

Its a Diesel 2.8 CRD Limited

[Burgerman]

Well much the same applies to diesels too. Other than the cat. Not sure if it has one, or if its closed loop. But it cant burn valves because all diesels run weak all of the time by design. Unless some numpty has turned up the fuel to the point where you get black smoke at max power... But thats not likely on a road car.

So here less back pressure results in lower pumping losses and more efficient turbo operation (why it feels faster probably as it will boost earlier and for longer. No it will not damage anything. In fact low back pressure is much more important for a diesel turbo, or and turbo engine. Because the turbo spins because of the pressure difference across it.