PGDT Serial interface cable ...USB Alternative :D

[vinsen]

FT232RL .
I put a resistor 47k and 10k. An error no com port

[vinsen]

FT232RL .
I put a resistor 47k and 10k. An error no com port

If you make a connection - are the terminal data. When the cable is connected to the controller - The figures do not go.

[vinsen]

FT232RL .
I put a resistor 47k and 10k. An error no com port

If you make a connection - are the terminal data. When the cable is connected to the controller - The figures do not go.

[woodygb]

I get no errors.

However ...SOME cables just do not work.

Would you like me to send you one of mine?

[vinsen]

No thanks. I did try to do. Do not need to send. I have a good friend .It helps me make the circuit. I'll experiment itself.
Thank U!

[gcebiker]

Thanks to gologen and Woody and all others that have posted here on this thread.

Following Gologen's instructions on page 11 ..and being unable at this time to reinstall the Qlogic into a power base.
...because i hate it and love my Shark controller.

I now have the laptop all set up to connect up to my friends chair : save his current settings ...then start trying to dial it in for him.

It would be pointless for me to have my favorite settings imposed on him, we're not the same in our fine/grose motor skills.
Obviously i wont be able to drill and solder in connections to his joystick , just did it for mine, so it did not become disconnected while setting the laptop up.

[Burgerman]

brake lines joined???

[gcebiker]

Yep, wired them (two little black wires) together - got 'brake not connected' with out it.

Got motor not connected when i moved the joystick, not moving the joystick was the answer to that problem

[woodygb]

I'd suggest that you put a resistance to emulate the parking brake coil... something like a 24v automotive relay... between the black wires otherwise things might get toastie!

[gcebiker]

I would think that the coils are only energized while moving.

point is moot, was only connected a short time and is now back in its box in the shed.

[ex-Gooserider]

Coils may energize if the controller THINKS it should be moving, even if it isn't, so probably not a bad idea as a safety measure just in case the joystick gets bumped....

Also, I don't know if its the case here, (appears not if you didn't get an error) but I've seen devices that check for both opens and shorts as a coil can fail either way, and both should give an error....

ex-Gooserider

[LROBBINS]

Yes, it's not hard to check for both open and shorts. Suppose that the 24V (or 12V) side is permanently connected and the gnd side is what's switched (as on the Roboteq). Monitor voltage on the low side - with an intact coil it will be near 0 when energized, and at full supply voltage when not. When the controller calls for coils energized, the value should be near 0. If it's not, there's an open coil. When the controller calls for de-energized (i.e. brakes set), the value should be supply voltage. If it's near zero, there's a shorted coil. No great accuracy is needed, so a simple voltage divider with large value resistors and a digital input pin to distinguish between near 0 (LOW) and full volts (HIGH) is enough. Doing this, you don't need a low-ohms, high wattage resistor to mimic a brake - I use 2200 ohm resistors when testing without brakes connected. Someone should check P&G, Dynamic and Curtiss controllers to see if they can be fooled into thinking a brake's there with a similar high value. I no longer have a working commercial controller here, so I can't check that.
Ciao,
Lenny

[gcebiker]

...its in a box, in the shed, on the top shelf not connected up.
So its not an issue.

[gcebiker]

I do have to take it back down at some point and do the tests Woody asked for (pinout and such)

I do chiller repairs for Saltwater fish tanks and weather and work are hotting up at the moment.
..so i need to keep the controls on my chair as they are.

My plan is to put it back on the power base when things quiet down
and measure at that time, which will mean its hooked up to both the motor and brake proper.

I'll probably also at that time hook up my Arduino/Wii Nunchuck wireless unit and have it driving by RC.

Hacking the ASII bus is also on the drawing board to add the sensors.
..or i could just have the sensor module arduino read the joystick values and modify them if a sensor detects ...something...lets say a wall.

Much easier to do the latter.

[peterik]

the connection?

[woodygb]

The connection for what?

[peterik]

the connection?

remove

2 durch die RX und TX Stifte ohne gnd

[peterik]

the connection?

remove

2 durch die RX und TX Stifte ohne gnd

[peterik]

the connection?

remove

2 durch die RX und TX Stifte ohne gnd

Do i need GND?

[woodygb]

Do i need GND?

Yes.



Are you trying to talk to the Meyra controller?

[Cornishman]

I have just built a new programming lead but when I try to connect to the S Drive I get the message unable to connect to serial port. I had this lead working OK six years ago but do I have to alter the comms settings on my laptopto make it work. I cannot remember what I did last time to get it to recgnise the controller.
Can someone please advise?

[woodygb]

The Programming software only recognises Com Ports 1-8 inclusive.... So what number has Windows assigned to your lead?

What chipset does your lead use and which model of S-drive ?

Also note that YOU must inform the Software what Comms port number the lead uses.

To do this ... Click Tools ... Comms ...then pick the number ( 1 - 8 ).

[Cornishman]

Thank you for your reply.
I assume that I can find the comms port assigned in Device Manager.
I have built the lead exactly as shown at the beginning of this post, not sure what the chipset is.
My controller is either an S120A or S140A. Device is at my sons at this time.
The software has comms port 3 selected.
I assume this should match the comms port in Device Manager.

[woodygb]

Information for building a lead taken from the beginning of this post is now a bit dated.

Device manager is the place to go to find the Com Port number AND it should also tell you the chipset type.

[woodygb]

The software has comms port 3 selected.
I assume this should match the comms port in Device Manager.

Yes

[Cornishman]

I have just come across your lead in another post which looks the same as the one I built, but does it have an option of connecting through the s drive charging point?
This would save taking off the cover to connect through the molex socket.
Is the lead I built out of date now?

[woodygb]

The option of connecting thru the charging port depends on if the molex is actually connected to it by the wiring loom.

You could buy an 4-Pin ATX 12V Extension Cable (12") and extend the S-drive molex to somewhere more convenient ...
https://www.amazon.co.uk/kenable-Female ... 84&sr=8-13

This is a fairly up to date schematic.... I use a 47k resistor but others have suggested a 33k.

The attachment plugs pgdt 2.jpg is no longer available

.

I have also recently tried and had success with just two Schottky Diodes.

[salviador]

Hello ,
I am new

I have a ‘VR2 Power Module 90Amp’ with ‘PG VR2 9-key joystick’.
I would like to reprogram deceleration and other parameters.
I bought on aliexpress the ‘usb kpg-4’ cable. I wonder where I can download the software to program the vr2?

[woodygb]

Check your messages.

[salviador]

Hello, I succeeded thanks to all of you!!!


I have a question , I have noticed that although I have profile ‘5’ ‘Foward Speed %’ = 100% MAX ,
and ‘Power%’ = 100

When I do a test by connecting the oscilloscope to the motor I have a PWM of 90% in foward , in practice I want to increase the speed a little by bringing the pwm to 95% for example but despite the parameters being at maximum the motors pwm does not increase being at maximum the pwm does not increase
Why? any ideaa?

I have VR2 90Amp