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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby brianpile1 » 25 Jan 2017, 12:10

shirley_hkg wrote: I know you guys want to offer the best of the best .

For a 45Ah add-on to double the range per charge , BMS is the easiest way for people with limited ability , knowledge and tools .

No complaint so far , since my first add-on back in 2007 .


That's Interesting Shirley. I think that I will probably go the PL8 way, I read so much negative posts from BM about dumb BMS systems that they seemed that they were all appallingly bad. Forgive me if I am wrong, but is there a decent BMS available somewhere?

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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby brianpile1 » 25 Jan 2017, 12:14

Gnomatic wrote:
brianpile1 wrote: [because the front one is a nightmare to get out, and involves removing the seat and framework/ motors].
Brian


Brian, can if you don't mind, take some pics of the base of your chair and post them here. Front, back, right side, left side. I'd like a good look seat frame and the base. I have a V6, and while the battery arrangement etc is different than the V4, they share many of the same components...

I will do this and will post later.
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby steves1977uk » 25 Jan 2017, 14:05

All BMS are equally bad. Even the one shirley supplied expresso was very slow at balancing (100mah? VS the PL8's 1000mah). So the PL8 would be the better option.

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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Burgerman » 25 Jan 2017, 23:27

And the cells it had been balancing were later connected to the PL8 and they were miles out...
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Gnomatic » 25 Jan 2017, 23:49

brianpile1 wrote:
I will do this and will post later.


Looking forward to getting a good look at your V4
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby shirley_hkg » 13 Feb 2017, 02:42

I switched to this . This is the smallest , 4 digits voltmetre . :D

It has a potentiometer to calibrate reading . Very accurate .

$1.00 each .
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Gnomatic » 14 Feb 2017, 18:14

shirley_hkg wrote: I switched to this . This is the smallest , 4 digits voltmetre . :D

It has a potentiometer to calibrate reading . Very accurate .

$1.00 each .


Do you have a link to something like this shirley?
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Burgerman » 14 Feb 2017, 20:43

I found that on ebay.
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Gnomatic » 14 Feb 2017, 23:11

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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby ex-Gooserider » 10 Mar 2017, 07:09

I'm getting ready to order the batteries and so on to do a lithium conversion on my Ranger-X project chair...

While I agree that it is highly preferable to use either the Hyperion I own, or the PL-8, either one is a fairly large and expensive item to duplicate or travel with... (especially after including the needed power supply to run off mains power...)

I noticed while poking around on the Evassemble site, that they have listings for relatively small, low power (240W) chargers that claim to be for 8S packs, and are small - about the size of a 'mobility brick' charger (looks like the same case extrusion...), and cheap enough that it would be possible to have several stashed in various places to use in case of the chair running low unexpectedly, or when travelling...

links -
http://www.evassemble.com/index.php?mai ... cts_id=167
http://www.evassemble.com/index.php?mai ... cts_id=165

The pictures are terrible, and don't make it at all clear whether they have balance connectors or not, and the info on them isn't all that great.

Are these something that should be avoided like the plague, or would they be OK for use as emergency chargers, or for use while travelling?

Also BM, your page on the main site http://www.wheelchairdriver.com/convert ... ithium.htm has a promise of more details to come - is there any update on it, and is the shopping list and directions on that page all that is needed to do the conversion - I don't really want to have to wade through the 112 pages of messages in this thread to see if there is any significant updates or changes....

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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby shirley_hkg » 10 Mar 2017, 09:37

No . It just couldn't be a balance charger .

It's merely a dump charger , and should only be working with a BMS .
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Burgerman » 10 Mar 2017, 09:43

Correct, like every lithium battery seller they sell dumb chargers and BMS setups.
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Burgerman » 10 Mar 2017, 09:48

Best setup today is PL8v2 and some high or low power supply from 12 to 30V.

Since you understand the wiring, you could use that setup at home, but use a generic BMS and only use the charging part of it and bypass the rest for travel with a dumb charger. Just be sure to use one that is at a lower voltage than recommended, at say 3.5v per cell to stop it bouncing them off the ceiling, and be sure the pack is well balanced with a real charger beforehand..
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Vitolds » 10 Mar 2017, 14:27

2 chargings are necessary PL8v2 (48V)?
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Burgerman » 10 Mar 2017, 17:38

Yes.
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Vitolds » 10 Mar 2017, 19:11

EOS 0720I SUPER DUO3 CHARGER + 1200WATT POWER SUPPLY COMBO (110V ~240V) - EU/KR CORD
https://www.hyperion-world.com/en/p2830 ... duo3psu-eu
It will approach?
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Burgerman » 10 Mar 2017, 19:57

Several problems there.
Problem one is that its balance current is low.
And you cant select termination current etc.
And it is a dual 20A (instead of 40) 7S charger. So 14S max. But not on a single pack.

It also means that you will have to break the batteries in the middle electrically. With 2x PL8 that isn't needed provided you use 2 floating power supplies..
And those PL8s are electrically better protected, and can charge at 2680 watts. But its your money.
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Vitolds » 10 Mar 2017, 21:48

what you can advise 14S - 16S
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Burgerman » 10 Mar 2017, 22:03

2x PL8v2 and two separate isolated power supplies. They need two separate charge leads. One per 8S battery.

2600 watts, 40A charge, tons of settings and control, PC control and graphing, 8S each. Can put 120Ah @ 48V back in 3 hours.

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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Vitolds » 10 Mar 2017, 23:51

to me charging time isn't really important.
I want to assemble the battery 120 And 48B
settings aren't necessary, "included and forgot".
you can advise charging under these requests.
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Burgerman » 11 Mar 2017, 00:56

Settings and termination points,. accurate balancing etc do not matter. If you dont care if it works properly or lasts properly. So no I cant advise...

Other than anything will (might) work for a bit...
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby ex-Gooserider » 11 Mar 2017, 05:17

Agreed the PL8 is a better unit, but given that I already own a Hyperion, I might as well use it, at least until it dies... If the Evassemble chargers wouldn't be good, are there any alternatives that you can think of to do a similar job of being a travel / emergency backup charger?

I'd be looking for the following -
1. Mains powered (110V 60Hz for me, better if also able to deal w/ everyone else's power as well...)
2. Compact - comparable to a 'mobility brick' or smaller...
3. Cheap...
4. Able to balance an 8S pack


BAD NEWS - Plot complication!
I just discovered a complication.... The H-frame chairs basically have two plastic battery boxes, each nominally sized to fit a Group 24 battery. The two boxes slide into the frame, and connect to each other and the chair electrics with guided SB-50's that are part of the lids on each box. It's a decent setup, but would be very difficult to change as it would require modifying the mount for the SB-50 on the frame of the chair, and probably have a lot of other dimension / fitting issues...

I'd been assuming that I could build the Group 24 packs like you describe in the conversion page, and be all set. However I actually started taking measurements a few minutes ago, and discovered that I have a fit problem... BCI height for a Group 24 is 225mm, and MOST of the box is 243mm high inside, but there is a cutout in the center of each side for the Anderson connector that is only 224mm high - obviously they assumed that the battery terminals would be on the ends of the battery, so they'd have clearance in the middle to use for the SB-50's, fuse box and wiring...

The problem is that the Group 24 size pack is 6 cells high, and 6 x 40mm = 240mm, so there would be no room for the SB-50's :(

This leaves me looking for alternatives....

1. Obvious is to go for the Group 34 setup - lots of room, but it is only 4S7P, using the 12Ah cells I get 84Ah, which is not much better than the nominal 70Ah of a Group 24...

2. Since the problem is only in the middle, I could go to an odd-ball setup by adding two more cells on each end, so I end up with a 4S8P pack, for 96Ah

3. I also looked at the 15Ah cells - it looks like I could stand them vertically, which would give me a 4W x 6L pack that would be about 185mm tall, and be 4S x 6P, for 90Ah

Seems like the winner per the standard rule of cramming as many Ah as will fit in the box is number two.... if I compare costs, option 3 is about $60 cheaper, but that isn't much of a difference given the total cost for either choice...

It does look like the 15Ah option is actually a better alternative if one does need to fit in a Group 34 size box (assuming it is sized to fit the BCI spec)

One of the questions is EXACTLY what are the dimensions of the ASSEMBLED cells in blocks... The dimensions given are for single blocks, but supposedly they lock together with dovetails - sort of like the Anderson PowerPole connector shells... if a small part of each block is keyed into the adjacent block, then several blocks in a row will be shorter than the total of that many blocks measured separately... So how much of a difference is there?

On a similar line, I can't find a number for how long the 15Ah cells are in blocks - I reached the 184mm value I assumed based on the idea that the blocks add 32mm to the length of the smaller cells, and using the same addition on the 15Ah cells...

Thoughts?

ex-Gooserider

Burgerman wrote:Best setup today is PL8v2 and some high or low power supply from 12 to 30V.

Since you understand the wiring, you could use that setup at home, but use a generic BMS and only use the charging part of it and bypass the rest for travel with a dumb charger. Just be sure to use one that is at a lower voltage than recommended, at say 3.5v per cell to stop it bouncing them off the ceiling, and be sure the pack is well balanced with a real charger beforehand..
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby ex-Gooserider » 11 Mar 2017, 05:18

Agreed the PL8 is a better unit, but given that I already own a Hyperion, I might as well use it, at least until it dies... If the Evassemble chargers wouldn't be good, are there any alternatives that you can think of to do a similar job of being a travel / emergency backup charger?

I'd be looking for the following -
1. Mains powered (110V 60Hz for me, better if also able to deal w/ everyone else's power as well...)
2. Compact - comparable to a 'mobility brick' or smaller...
3. Cheap...
4. Able to balance an 8S pack


BAD NEWS - Plot complication!
I just discovered a complication.... The H-frame chairs basically have two plastic battery boxes, each nominally sized to fit a Group 24 battery. The two boxes slide into the frame, and connect to each other and the chair electrics with guided SB-50's that are part of the lids on each box. It's a decent setup, but would be very difficult to change as it would require modifying the mount for the SB-50 on the frame of the chair, and probably have a lot of other dimension / fitting issues...

I'd been assuming that I could build the Group 24 packs like you describe in the conversion page, and be all set. However I actually started taking measurements a few minutes ago, and discovered that I have a fit problem... BCI height for a Group 24 is 225mm, and MOST of the box is 243mm high inside, but there is a cutout in the center of each side for the Anderson connector that is only 224mm high - obviously they assumed that the battery terminals would be on the ends of the battery, so they'd have clearance in the middle to use for the SB-50's, fuse box and wiring...

The problem is that the Group 24 size pack is 6 cells high, and 6 x 40mm = 240mm, so there would be no room for the SB-50's :(

This leaves me looking for alternatives....

1. Obvious is to go for the Group 34 setup - lots of room, but it is only 4S7P, using the 12Ah cells I get 84Ah, which is not much better than the nominal 70Ah of a Group 24...

2. Since the problem is only in the middle, I could go to an odd-ball setup by adding two more cells on each end, so I end up with a 4S8P pack, for 96Ah

3. I also looked at the 15Ah cells - it looks like I could stand them vertically, which would give me a 4W x 6L pack that would be about 185mm tall, and be 4S x 6P, for 90Ah

Seems like the winner per the standard rule of cramming as many Ah as will fit in the box is number two.... if I compare costs, option 3 is about $60 cheaper, but that isn't much of a difference given the total cost for either choice...

It does look like the 15Ah option is actually a better alternative if one does need to fit in a Group 34 size box (assuming it is sized to fit the BCI spec)

One of the questions is EXACTLY what are the dimensions of the ASSEMBLED cells in blocks... The dimensions given are for single blocks, but supposedly they lock together with dovetails - sort of like the Anderson PowerPole connector shells... if a small part of each block is keyed into the adjacent block, then several blocks in a row will be shorter than the total of that many blocks measured separately... So how much of a difference is there?

On a similar line, I can't find a number for how long the 15Ah cells are in blocks - I reached the 184mm value I assumed based on the idea that the blocks add 32mm to the length of the smaller cells, and using the same addition on the 15Ah cells...

Thoughts?

ex-Gooserider

Burgerman wrote:Best setup today is PL8v2 and some high or low power supply from 12 to 30V.

Since you understand the wiring, you could use that setup at home, but use a generic BMS and only use the charging part of it and bypass the rest for travel with a dumb charger. Just be sure to use one that is at a lower voltage than recommended, at say 3.5v per cell to stop it bouncing them off the ceiling, and be sure the pack is well balanced with a real charger beforehand..
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby shirley_hkg » 11 Mar 2017, 11:12

ex-Gooserider wrote:Agreed the PL8 is a better unit, but given that I already own a Hyperion, I might as well use it, at least until it dies... If the Evassemble chargers wouldn't be good, are there any alternatives that you can think of to do a similar job of being a travel / emergency backup charger?

I'd be looking for the following -
1. Mains powered (110V 60Hz for me, better if also able to deal w/ everyone else's power as well...)
2. Compact - comparable to a 'mobility brick' or smaller...
3. Cheap...
4. Able to balance an 8S pack




After swapping from BMS to PL8 , I have your same situation . That is my solution , using dump charger during travel.

The D-sub charge port has the 2 bulk charging wires and the 9 balance leads as well . Connect a BMS to the output of a 24V charger and all wires to another D-sub connector , that matches the charge port . Now , my pack can be charged with PL8 or a dump charger with protection .
;)
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby expresso » 11 Mar 2017, 17:23

shirley_hkg wrote:
ex-Gooserider wrote:Agreed the PL8 is a better unit, but given that I already own a Hyperion, I might as well use it, at least until it dies... If the Evassemble chargers wouldn't be good, are there any alternatives that you can think of to do a similar job of being a travel / emergency backup charger?

I'd be looking for the following -
1. Mains powered (110V 60Hz for me, better if also able to deal w/ everyone else's power as well...)
2. Compact - comparable to a 'mobility brick' or smaller...
3. Cheap...
4. Able to balance an 8S pack




After swapping from BMS to PL8 , I have your same situation . That is my solution , using dump charger during travel.

The D-sub charge port has the 2 bulk charging wires and the 9 balance leads as well . Connect a BMS to the output of a 24V charger and all wires to another D-sub connector , that matches the charge port . Now , my pack can be charged with PL8 or a dump charger with protection .
;)


thats not a bad idea -- instead of keeping the BMS connected to the battery in use all the time - sort of a modular BMS - you can carry with you and just connect to the charge connector on the chair and dumb charger - to use only during those times you have to carry a dumb charger or only have a dumb charger on hand - traveling etc, -

but once home - you use the PL 8 the proper way - thats interesting that it give you options -

The BMS i got from you - would be a perfect unit to try that with for someone else if they wanted ? good idea -
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby expresso » 11 Mar 2017, 17:31

ex-Gooserider wrote:Agreed the PL8 is a better unit, but given that I already own a Hyperion, I might as well use it, at least until it dies... If the Evassemble chargers wouldn't be good, are there any alternatives that you can think of to do a similar job of being a travel / emergency backup charger?

I'd be looking for the following -
1. Mains powered (110V 60Hz for me, better if also able to deal w/ everyone else's power as well...)
2. Compact - comparable to a 'mobility brick' or smaller...
3. Cheap...
4. Able to balance an 8S pack


BAD NEWS - Plot complication!
I just discovered a complication.... The H-frame chairs basically have two plastic battery boxes, each nominally sized to fit a Group 24 battery. The two boxes slide into the frame, and connect to each other and the chair electrics with guided SB-50's that are part of the lids on each box. It's a decent setup, but would be very difficult to change as it would require modifying the mount for the SB-50 on the frame of the chair, and probably have a lot of other dimension / fitting issues...

I'd been assuming that I could build the Group 24 packs like you describe in the conversion page, and be all set. However I actually started taking measurements a few minutes ago, and discovered that I have a fit problem... BCI height for a Group 24 is 225mm, and MOST of the box is 243mm high inside, but there is a cutout in the center of each side for the Anderson connector that is only 224mm high - obviously they assumed that the battery terminals would be on the ends of the battery, so they'd have clearance in the middle to use for the SB-50's, fuse box and wiring...

The problem is that the Group 24 size pack is 6 cells high, and 6 x 40mm = 240mm, so there would be no room for the SB-50's :(

This leaves me looking for alternatives....

1. Obvious is to go for the Group 34 setup - lots of room, but it is only 4S7P, using the 12Ah cells I get 84Ah, which is not much better than the nominal 70Ah of a Group 24...

2. Since the problem is only in the middle, I could go to an odd-ball setup by adding two more cells on each end, so I end up with a 4S8P pack, for 96Ah

3. I also looked at the 15Ah cells - it looks like I could stand them vertically, which would give me a 4W x 6L pack that would be about 185mm tall, and be 4S x 6P, for 90Ah

Seems like the winner per the standard rule of cramming as many Ah as will fit in the box is number two.... if I compare costs, option 3 is about $60 cheaper, but that isn't much of a difference given the total cost for either choice...

It does look like the 15Ah option is actually a better alternative if one does need to fit in a Group 34 size box (assuming it is sized to fit the BCI spec)

One of the questions is EXACTLY what are the dimensions of the ASSEMBLED cells in blocks... The dimensions given are for single blocks, but supposedly they lock together with dovetails - sort of like the Anderson PowerPole connector shells... if a small part of each block is keyed into the adjacent block, then several blocks in a row will be shorter than the total of that many blocks measured separately... So how much of a difference is there?

On a similar line, I can't find a number for how long the 15Ah cells are in blocks - I reached the 184mm value I assumed based on the idea that the blocks add 32mm to the length of the smaller cells, and using the same addition on the 15Ah cells...

Thoughts?

ex-Gooserider

Burgerman wrote:Best setup today is PL8v2 and some high or low power supply from 12 to 30V.

Since you understand the wiring, you could use that setup at home, but use a generic BMS and only use the charging part of it and bypass the rest for travel with a dumb charger. Just be sure to use one that is at a lower voltage than recommended, at say 3.5v per cell to stop it bouncing them off the ceiling, and be sure the pack is well balanced with a real charger beforehand..



those 15ah cells - even if you can only get 90ah in there - its not that bad - i know how your battery box is - my friend has same setup on hers - but maybe you can not use those battery boxes at all - and just get a battery tray that would fit 2 Group 24 batteries and use that tray to make your pack in - like my chair - its not a closed battery box - fully open - just a tray to sit them in -

if you search Ebay - i found open battery trays for single batteries - maybe they have them for double - or you can somehow make one out of two - or search for battery tray for my chair quickie 646 or 626 636 - all the same frame etc, - but make sure the battery tray is for group 24 batteries - since they can have them for group 22 also - i found an extra one on ebay and used that for my chair - keeping the original tray for spare -

if 90ah is not enough for you - you can make a small ADD ON and connect that also - - but with 90ah - i can get about 30 miles out of that - with some left over to keep it at safe level - that isnt bad either - and you would have enough room on top for wiring -
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Gnomatic » 12 Mar 2017, 00:03

shirley_hkg wrote:
After swapping from BMS to PL8 , I have your same situation . That is my solution , using dump charger during travel.

The D-sub charge port has the 2 bulk charging wires and the 9 balance leads as well . Connect a BMS to the output of a 24V charger and all wires to another D-sub connector , that matches the charge port . Now , my pack can be charged with PL8 or a dump charger with protection .
;)


That's a good idea, shirley. That would be more convenient than lugging around a PSU and PL8 while traveling. If you have any pics of your setup, please share.
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby Gnomatic » 12 Mar 2017, 01:47

ex-Gooserider wrote:
One of the questions is EXACTLY what are the dimensions of the ASSEMBLED cells in blocks...


Here ya go, Goose.

Image

Image
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby shirley_hkg » 12 Mar 2017, 03:25

expresso wrote:
The BMS i got from you - would be a perfect unit to try that with for someone else if they wanted ? good idea -


Yes , it works , and it is compact too .
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Re: Step by step lithium conversion?

Postby expresso » 12 Mar 2017, 03:52

shirley_hkg wrote:
expresso wrote:
The BMS i got from you - would be a perfect unit to try that with for someone else if they wanted ? good idea -


Yes , it works , and it is compact too .



nice - i may end up making use of it then - can you post a pic of how you did yours - i can get a better idea with pictures

thanks
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