I didn't order from Evassemble, but don't have any serious reason to object to them... I went with a Chinese source 'Boka Batteries' recommended by a guy at Headway HQ as they are now wholesale only.... Saved about $200 over EV, and was happy with delivery time, took about 3 weeks.
I got the NorComp 10+3 connectors & shells, the Molex Microfit BMI connectors and the JST-PA-9 connectors for the PL8 from Digikey.
I didn't look to see if I could find the Norcomp or Molex stuff anywhere else, but Digikey was the only place I could find the JST connector in 'retail' quantities....
I got the wire, banana plugs and terminals via E-Bay, MUCH less than Digikey... I'm using some 5 strand ribbon cable for the balance wiring, and silicone wire for the main power wires. The ring terminals I am using on the balance wires are 3M branded crimp on lugs w/ glue lined heat shrink. I also got some glue lined 3-1 shrink tube in an assortment kit from E-bay
Worth noting that the 3M connectors are UL listed, and if properly crimped with a ratchet crimper, should be as good or better connections than soldering... They are also 'automotive and marine' rated, meaning that they are basically waterproof when shrunk... IMHO this is the best choice for the balance wiring. Even if not using the heat shrinkable crimps, I still look for the UL listing as that seems to guarantee more consistent sizing so that you get a solid crimp with the ratchet crimper. I've found some of the non-UL listed crimps are lighter / thinner, and don't give a reliable crimp, even when using a good crimper...
Shells are largely a matter of what you like, the two big things to worry about is the size of the shell, which is usually given based on the equivalent size standard 'D-sub' connector. (The 10+3 Norcomp connectors are 25-pin D-sub equivalent. IIRC, the 17+3 are 35-pin.) The other thing is the 'cable exit position' - what do you prefer, and on the chair end, what works best for cable routing to go from the place where you are putting the plug to the batteries... You can get several different exit angles from parallel to the connector face to right angles to it...
They will talk about shielding level, which is important if dealing with high frequency stuff, but what we are doing is basically DC, so doesn't matter... Thus other than cosmetic, there is no advantage of the 'metallized plastic' over plain plastic (which costs less).... I don't think there is any mechanical advantage to the cast pot-metal shells, so I went with plain plastic.
On the programming software, I always have to play with it a bit each time, as I don't use if often enough to have the interface memorized... However I have found that it is a good verification step to disconnect the chair, close the programming software, and then open everything back up, and re-read the controller in order to verify that it actually shows any changes you made properly...
ex-Gooserider
hotwheels_75 wrote:ex-Gooserider wrote:
Best I can suggest is draw out top and bottom of the pack and add the plates - then count, several times, and add 10-20%... Remember to count both the two-hole and four-hole plates...
Also you probably won't want them from ev-assemble, but remember all the other stuff needed like balance wires, terminals, etc...
ex-Gooserider
Thanks ex-Goose. I placed my order for batteries, plates & blocks. Have you ordered from evassemble? Take long for processing & shipping your order?
I ordered my charger & accessories. Still need a power supply & wires & terminals. Digikey isn't working for me today, can't do any searches. Looking for the Dsub connection parts.
It's a lot to keep straight!
ex-Gooserider wrote:I usually get an error when I try to download a changed file to the controller - something about it not being a supported value. I just hit the OK box and it resets to the default for that item. IIRC, the error message says that the value isn't supported...
There are several values like this where you can set them on some controllers but not others... Presumably has something to do with the exact firmware loaded (which we don't have the ability to change as far as I know)
(Annoyingly, there is a value for the controller amp rating - the software lets you change it to a higher value, but errors when you try to download it
)
ex-Gooserider
I haven't gotten any errors yet. I meant to ask anyone are you supposed to use the "controller write" option or click the "program" button? If I click the program button it updates to the new settings. If I click Controller write, it asks for the joystick serial number then loads new settings, Looked to me like both had the same end result... but I'm still a bit clueless.
pretty sure I was able to change the amp settings in mine. But I'll have to double check
my lack of hand control had me zig zagging & bucking around. Got it tamed down a bit. You mentioned to set any torque settings to max. There's a Torque % setting but it resets itself to zero every time I use it. Does that mean it's not supported by my chair or is something causing it to reset?
) just way to squirrley for me, especially when loading up in my van. And, I have others sometimes moving my chair at times, like at the dentists office. The speed pot also helps in these circumstances as well.
