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SLIGHTLY Modified
Improved Powerchair
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My VERY Modified Off Road & All terrain DO ALL
Powerchair!
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3
MISCELLANEOUS
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Manual or Electric Wheelchair?
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radio
controlled electric wheelchair medium
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radio controlled
electric wheelchair
large
The thing on the seat again. People keep asking about this. I
have three powerchairs. I help others and modify and fix reprogram theirs too on
occasion to help. And no I don't charge people. I like to help if I can. And since I have to be sat in a powerchair to do anything I need
to be able to drive other powerchairs about. So I built an interesting black box
that just plugs in to the powerchair.
Drive your powerchair by Radio Control
here...
I use this clever box of tricks on many wheelchairs. It works well. Its fail safe too so radio
interference doesn't send the powerchair racing off out of control -- it simply
stops dead if any interference or poor signal is detected. It needs to see the transmitters encoded signal before the control system
will allow movement. So its safe to use to drive a wheelchair into my van,
to a workshop etc
I sometimes
walk the dog up and down the street a few times with a spare uninhabited
powerchair if its raining. I just drive from my front room in the warmth. Some
people look at an empty powerchair walking a dog a little strangely. The thing
on the right is of course my radio control transmitter that I use to drive the
powerchairs about.. I fly model planes and helicopters.
Radio controlled
wheelchair short movies:
radio controlled
powerchair
mpg &
here mpeg (right click and choose "save as" and save to your desktop) Also
the same system used in my homebuilt 4 x 4 powerchair base here
robot.mpg &
here mpg and a non
related wheelie
mpeg and
here mpg.
(In all cases use right click, then save to your desktop.)

short powerchair medium
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short powerchair
large
Above: Assembled other than the rear lights (undecided as to if I should bother
fitting them) and the armrest bars, and the wheel disk centres. This image shows
you how short this powerchair really is. My HEAD is the thing that touches first
if I reverse to a wall. That makes it SHORTER than almost any other powerchair since
its no longer than I am sitting down. Its this that gives it the capability to
manoeuvre it tight places, public bars, loos, vans etc. And its essential.
I tried a stock F55 powerchair the other day! What a big bulky slow cumbersome
hard to control thing that was! Felt like an oil tanker. A few inches here and
there make an enormous difference. I couldn't live like that.

powerchair wheel
centre discs medium
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powerchair wheel centre
discs large
Test
fitted wheel disc centres! These are made simply with a Starret "hole saw" of
the correct size and some 3 or 4mm sheet aluminium and polished on the same
buffing wheel that I used for the bolts. At least discs two were.
I have 6. There are
2 made on a lathe at the local college and two more made by a machine shop! All look
exactly the same in the end. Polished finishes look ok for a few
weeks but once they see salt on our roads they oxidise and go dull and become etched...
They fit, so off to the powder coaters they go!

Above: The OTHER chair (I am building 2 at once here) has no suspension, its
locked up solid with this adjustable bar. These are M8 Rose joints, Rod ends, or
whatever you like to call them. This is because I like a solid "feel" when
driving my van from this chair. The other one has springs here.
suspension lock up medium
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suspension lock up
large

Above: This one chair has these adjustable lock up struts and so no rear
suspension as its better to drive my van from. And the same tiny skate board
wheels as anti tip wheels because they are just better and smaller and longer
lasting as well as allowing the wheelchair to tip back further! And they have
proper bearings unlike the easily killed soft rubber stock "big" ones!
rod end/rose joint medium
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rod end/rose joint
large

home made
wheel mounting plate medium
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home made wheel
mounting plate
large
This is how I fit those new wheels... The thing on the left is an old V Belt
Pulley. It uses a thing called a taperlock in its centre (which is tapered.) The
thing at the top is the taperlock. It has a 20mm bore (or any standard size you
specify) and it clamps onto the shaft very solidly with two Allen headed grub
screws. They are easy to fit and remove and don't suffer from the wear and
fretting that the standard wheel does on the shaft. It also uses a square "key"
just in case but its not actually needed. The Middle one is a similar
pulley and the same way up as the first one after having its diameter reduced
and its thickness reduced to make it about half the weight. Its also had 4 holes
drilled and tapped to M10 to allow me to then attach the wheel. The third image
is the same thing but the other way up and assembled ready to fit, after its
been cleaned, degreased and sprayed in black paint.

This is the other side of the pulley. Both the original one and the middle
one are turned over. They are all covered in soot/muck... After shot blasting
and spraying black they look a lot better! I have 10 of these machined pulleys
now. 6 fitted to three wheelchairs and another four fitted to my
four wheel drive robot/powerchair base that I built here

Ye Olde 14th century Myford Lathe... Is enough to do this. But sharp tools help!
Mine are not. This is how old pulleys finish up as wheel mounting hubs! If you
haven't got one, or your local college hasn't got one then your local machine
shop will be pleased to do it for you for a small sum. Takes about half an hour.
Bit heavy but its the best I can do in a bedroom. The manufacturers do worse and
they do have the gear! Below is the same thing painted and being fitted with the
wrong bolts...
Myford lathe
medium
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Myford lathe
large

Ready to paint and with some spacers and bolts. Don't use ugly bolts like
these - they are temporary.
machined
medium
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machined
large

fit wheel to adapter medium
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fit wheel to plate
large
Above Fitting the TUBELESS tyre and wheel assembly to the
commercial V belt pulley that I machined down and drilled M10 to accept the
wheel -- 4 alloy spacers are also used, and you can just about see the one
without a bolt. The centre of these modified pulleys is what I was really
interested in - It has a special taper that fits a thing called a TaperLock...

fitting wheel to
adapter plate medium
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fitting wheel to adapter
plate
large
The taperlock can be seen inserted into the centre here. Its a kind of wedge
that locks onto the motor shaft with a couple of small grub screws very solidly!

cap head bolt fitting medium
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cap headed bolt
fitting
large
The wheel is bolted to a modified pulley! It was (6 actually on 3 powerchairs) machined down to
allow it to be used as a wheel mounting adapter with M12 holes drilled to accept
the trailer wheels. The wheel sits on 4 spacers too position it correctly. The
other side of the picture 2 or 3 above!

wheel chair wheel medium
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wheel
chair wheel
large
The centre of this new wheel adapter has the much needed taper that allows a
standard industrial "Taperlock" fitting to be used to fit it to the 20mm
diameter motor output shaft. This taper fitting is the very reason I used a
standard cheap V belt pulley in the first place. Obviously I machined the part
with the V grove off, and drilled and tapped the side for the wheel. This type
of fitting clamps onto the shaft and does not rely on the very dodgy
manufacturers method of drive, a KEY! I fitted a key anyway as the design allows
for one but there can be no slippage or fretting as happens with the standard
wheel.
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