by ex-Gooserider » 16 May 2017, 04:16
First thing I would do is to draw out a complete wiring diagram showing what goes where - this shows what you need, and what can be eliminated...
Sometimes you can find wiring diagrams published, but often they will show all the possible options, including stuff that might not be on your chair at all, so I still think it is best to draw out your own diagram, possibly using the published one for help...
You should be able to eliminate pretty much anything that has to do with the onboard charger, except possibly needing to tie any inhibit wires to ground.
Upgrading the battery cable gage is optional, especially in a chair that has relatively weedy motors. The heavy duty users like BM and the power-chair sports guys will generally go to AWG 6 or close to it, but realistically AWG 8 will be OK... (As I've noted before, BM uses 10mm^2 wire, which is about AWG 7 equivalent per the charts) If I was replacing the battery wiring for other reasons, I'd use AWG 6, but I probably wouldn't replace existing AWG 8 wiring just to replace it....
The wiring between the motors and the controllers is trickier as it is generally lighter, but remember that it is severely current limited by the controller, and you will probably be limited in how much upsizing is possible by the connections on each end. Because of this, there isn't a lot to be gained by trying to boost the wire size, so again I would only look at doing this if replacing the wires for other reasons.
For pretty much everything else on the chair the stock wiring sizes are probably OK... The rule is that it is OK to go to bigger wires, but never smaller unless you know exactly what you are doing....
Hard to give specific advice on rewiring beyond that you need to be careful to follow basic 'good practice' rules about wiring in general, essentially being neat and bundling wires so that they are protected... Avoid sharp edges, secure the wire bundles to the frame or other solid parts, and don't go between bending bits more than needed... If you do cross between areas that bend, make sure to examine how the routing works at both ends of travel and every point in between - watch out for excessively tight bends, any possible pinching or pulling, etc...
If you have extra functions like tilt and recline, the basic options are to
1. Control through the joystick, which will require an extra module, with wiring as needed...
2. Control through a separate controller, again with it's own wiring needs.
3. Go for simple, and use a DPDT, center off, momentary type switch, with optional travel limit switches in the wiring to the actuator... On my chairs, this is the option I prefer. (I think option 1 is only a good choice if operating a separate switch isn't possible with the users ability level)
ex-Gooserider
T-5, ASIA-B
Jazzy 1100
Jazzy Select 6
Quickie Q-7
Invacare Mariner
Want to make / get a better chair, ideally one that stands.
