PINNED - Lithium battery conversion/info

[expresso]

[
I got my COOLICE PSU fitted with an EC5 connector when I placed my order for one. Dunno if you can get the guys in the US to fit the server PSUs with a short 8AWG cable with an EC5 connector.

Steve[/quote]

I cant even find a place that sells that PSU here in the states - how much did that thing cost ? looks like a beast of a PSU i googled but comes up with the website - in the UK[/quote]

I have the 2400w one which is overkill for a PL8, but it cost me £105 including postage. The max I've seen the PL8 draw from that while charging at 40 Amps is 49.5 Amps at around 24.6v which is roughly 1217 watts.

Steve[/quote]

Where did you purchase it - in the UK - but i dont find anything online to order from - or thats about $140 to 150 US dollars - i think - not bad - if i got the smaller one would be fine and cost less also
the website talks about flying lessons - no prices or for purchase of the item

[expresso]

i think i finally get it - how i can fit the Cells in my tray - it wont be one big pack - if the little ends on the orange blocks dont get in the way - i would have to make two batteries and connect them to make 24V and then connect that to the chair -

i was trying to picture it as one big battery pack like BM does - in that fashion - i dont see how i can do it - but if the one cell with the block is not wider than 167mm - i can make it work - seeing this picture made me think about it again

dosnt matter - i will test fit it with the Cells i get in maybe by end of month -

[flagman1776]

The little standoffs on the orange building blocks are not manditory... they are there to help keep the cells from contacting a metal battery box. You can insulate the battery box with rubber or plastic sheet or tape or a non-conducting battery box or insulated nut caps.

[expresso]

The little standoffs on the orange building blocks are not manditory... they are there to help keep the cells from contacting a metal battery box. You can insulate the battery box with rubber or plastic sheet or tape or a non-conducting battery box or insulated nut caps.

If i even get that far and do it - the battery box is very fitted - adding anything to it would most likely not make the pack fit then - i am waiting on 16 Cells for a Add on - pack i will make first - i can use those cells to see if it would fit -

worse case i can shave them down some - but i would for sure try to do the same thing BM did to his - with rubber caps on each screw - but i would also use some electrical tape and over it all around to be extra sure

[steves1977uk]

expresso, here... http://www.coolice.co.uk/cfs/coolice-psu-s.html

Although I'd buy the one Scollard suggested from ebay. Ask the seller on there if he'd fit an EC5 connector, or do as BM did, cut off the EC5 and use SB50 Andersons.

Steve

[expresso]

expresso, here... http://www.coolice.co.uk/cfs/coolice-psu-s.html

Although I'd buy the one Scollard suggested from ebay. Ask the seller on there if he'd fit an EC5 connector, or do as BM did, cut off the EC5 and use SB50 Andersons.

Steve

Thanks - at the moment - i am not buying charger PSU just yet - but if and when i get there - i think the best way is the SB50 done once and leave it there - and what ever else is done in the future - keep it all the same SB50 ends -

from the charger - banana to SB50 if i have to -

i am not ready just yet to do the whole chair setup - if i commit to that project - then i will get whats needed for that - which in my case is almost everything - i like that PSU - too bad i cant seem to find any for sale - but also you know space is an concern - - not like i have room for these large items - remember NYC apt. here - not a house

reason i just purchased a untility cart - which i didnt put together yet - at least i can keep what i need all on the cart and in one place when needed -

once i put myself at ease with doing a little ADD on and see how that works etc, - and put myself at ease with my battery tray space for a full pack - i will test it - once i am over that - i can think of later on for full chair -

honestly the ADD may be all i may need in terms of riding all day with out charging outside - it may - or may not - all i am really concerned about is the summer time - but i do hate the flat feeling of Lead when i drain them down -

having power all day long with no flat dead feeling going up hills etc, - that may convince me to try it one day - mostly alot of hills here also - so riding around i run into a dozen hills at times - and some are huge - i feel it after the first one and by the third one - chair is mostly dead not the same - after 8 miles and then the hills - its best to avoid any after that if i want to make it home riding -

[expresso]

Before i order

Is this correct for what i need to use for making the cables wires SB50 connector with 8AWG wires

http://www.amazon.com/Rosin-Paste-Flux- ... _mrai_3_dp


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030AP48/ref ... 7R3M&psc=1

and i want to add this fuse in the line - how would i add it - i have to use a connector of some sort - crimped between the line and soldered also ?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003DFIW1S/ref ... 85K9TUV8MP

i want to place an order for some small items - to get started - i will use this torch -

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z2DAOQU/ref ... DST38SVFLH

http://www.amazon.com/PRC-Silicone-Wire ... B00CD9TCL4

and then buy the SB50 ends - would be all i need i think ?

[Burgerman]

I would buy at better prices on eBay, but more or less yes. Your solder might be a bit fine but will work.

You need a crimper really for Andersons, and they are cheaper to buy in packs of 20 or more. And soon go...

[flagman1776]

You can use crimp connectors & then solder it but it must be uninsulated... I have used a razor blade to cut the insulation from home Improvement Store crimp connectors. Or a punch block & a hammer & punch to drive the center connector out of the insulation. A bare one would have been easier If I'd had one.
OR you can strip the wires & twist together in opposite directions & then use heat shrink tubing to insulate them. I use forcept type grippers to hold the 2 wires overlapping while I twist one side, then the other, solder. I prefer a soldering iron but then that's what I have. Wire strippers are very handy.
Also be aware their are low force SB50s... I wish I'd known because mine are hard for me to disconnect.

I pieced a fuse like that into my charge lead... just in case...

[Irving]

PL8 + other bits ordered and shipped from Revo Singapore shop... tho fedex tracking shows picked up in Singapore, first stop as GUANGZHOU CN, then KOELN DE and now at ROISSY CHARLES DE GAULLE CEDEX FR... in under 48h. Was scheduled to arrive on 17th, could be sooner

Now at 'Stansted: International shipment release - Import' whatever that means... getting excited. also ordered a coolice 2400W psu for general charging, freeing up the digimess for other uses...

[Burgerman]

It probably means that the UK customs will waste 3 times longer than the rest of the shipping put together. And will bill you incorrectly later on... Seriously I don't know! But it could be.

[Irving]

It probably means that the UK customs will waste 3 times longer than the rest of the shipping put together. And will bill you incorrectly later on... Seriously I don't know! But it could be.

Wouldn't surprise me!

[expresso]

I would buy at better prices on eBay, but more or less yes. Your solder might be a bit fine but will work.

You need a crimper really for Andersons, and they are cheaper to buy in packs of 20 or more. And soon go...

yes the crimper i saved the one you linked last time - from Ebay - and i can look on ebay also - but i just want to make sure i am getting the correct items in general -

which solder should i get if this one is too fine - a link to it on ebay if you can -

i always use amazon most times because its easier and i get it in two days - plus 30 days to return if anything - but most of these items are not items to worry about returning -

if i find cheaper on ebay for same items - that i am not worried about returning - then yes ebay is fine -

i had many items i had to return for one reason or another - so amazon policy on that - cant be beat - if purchased and sold from amazon.com - or at least fullfilled by amazon - your safe - if its third party - forget it - usually have issues on returning takes too long and never get full refund -

[Burgerman]

Next you are going to need to understand the "presets" and what each does, inc the stored ones in the folders...

[expresso]

You can use crimp connectors & then solder it but it must be uninsulated... I have used a razor blade to cut the insulation from home Improvement Store crimp connectors. Or a punch block & a hammer & punch to drive the center connector out of the insulation. A bare one would have been easier If I'd had one.
OR you can strip the wires & twist together in opposite directions & then use heat shrink tubing to insulate them. I use forcept type grippers to hold the 2 wires overlapping while I twist one side, then the other, solder. I prefer a soldering iron but then that's what I have. Wire strippers are very handy.
Also be aware their are low force SB50s... I wish I'd known because mine are hard for me to disconnect.

I pieced a fuse like that into my charge lead... just in case...

thanks - i will look for the low force models - honestly - i always have others connect and disconnect either way - i never done it myself - i have tried and yes they are harder for me to do if i had to -

http://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Insulated- ... connectors

this is what i would need to use - to connect the fuse in line - and i would use shrink wrap also - like this -

i would have to get a wire stripper crimper etc, - something thats easy to use - low force if i can

http://www.amazon.com/100pcs-Insulated- ... connectors

http://www.amazon.com/SummitLink-Assort ... CDDMJP43S4

do you really need a torque wrench to tighten down the screws on the Headways ?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PITTSBURGH- ... 2518.l4276

http://www.amazon.com/Stripping-Self-ad ... pping+tool

these are basic tools we all should have i know - but since i am not really able to use them myself - and never had any real projects to do which needed them - one or two things here and there - i always had it done for me instead - of investing

but i am sure once i have these tools - they will come to use more often than i think - mostly with making wires i think -

[Burgerman]

>>>do you really need a torque wrench to tighten down the screws on the Headways ?

Not if you are used to working on this kind of thing. Yes if not...

[expresso]

>>>do you really need a torque wrench to tighten down the screws on the Headways ?

Not if you are used to working on this kind of thing. Yes if not...

yes if you done it before and experienced at it -

it suggests to use one - to be safe - but do you think its really a need - even someone who never done it - - a few turns down tight and leave it ? does it have lock washers - so it wont unscrew once done - or just flat washers -

i guess i find out when i get mines - i just dont want to over tighten and break it - should i get lock washers instead or add them also if they are just flat washers - cant hurt ?

[Scollard]

it suggests to use one - to be safe - but do you think its really a need - even someone who never done it - - a few turns down tight and leave it ? does it have lock washers - so it wont unscrew once done - or just flat washers -

i guess i find out when i get mines - i just dont want to over tighten and break it - should i get lock washers instead or add them also if they are just flat washers - cant hurt ?

Headways have lock washers. I'm going to use threadlocker on my final assembly.

[Burgerman]

Use abrasive paper, and threadlock, (not the red one!), and tighten each one well. Once tightened mark with a marker pen. Or a dab of paint or something. Its quite hard to do every one and very easy to miss one or three... With a 72 cell battery there are 144 bolts! Its REALLY EASY to miss a few and it causes massive balancing and usage problems. When you think you got every one, check the lot again, several times. Every time I see a pack like this that has issues, its almost always a loose or not tight enough bolt.

[expresso]

Use abrasive paper, and threadlock, (not the red one!), and tighten each one well. Once tightened mark with a marker pen. Or a dab of paint or something. Its quite hard to do every one and very easy to miss one or three... With a 72 cell battery there are 144 bolts! Its REALLY EASY to miss a few and it causes massive balancing and usage problems. When you think you got every one, check the lot again, several times. Every time I see a pack like this that has issues, its almost always a loose or not tight enough bolt.

Sand paper on the screw end and a little locktite ? - once its tight - you mark it just to see if it comes loose ? i can see with so many to do - a few missed - why not just use a small lockwasher and not worry about it ?

if you use locktite etc, - just a little and thats it - but if you ever have to remove that screw - how hard is it to break it loose again - i know it should be hard - but will it be very very hard to break loose again or just a little extra force in the event you need to remove them etc, -

knowing me - i may have it connected wrong etc . and need to rearrange - etc - i am show i will post the pictures here to let you see the pack and tell me what is in the wrong order etc, - i wont tighten anything at that time - just loosely put to make sure i am connecting it correct -

it will be 16 Cells - to make a 24ah - so i think i have an idea but i am sure i am wrong somewhere - so i will post pictures when the time comes - for me pictures are a great help -


http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/ ... ue-242.htm

[Burgerman]

Because lockwashers don't work. And:


>>>Sand paper on the screw end and a little Loctite ? - once its tight - you mark it just to see if it comes loose ?

No the electrical contact faces. And Loctite screw threads so they don't come loose or get looser!
You mark each one directly as the bolt is tightened, so that you do not miss any. Because that's easy to do! Even when you think you didn't...
Then go around a 2nd time and add another mark in a different colour so you can see you double checked every one.

[Scollard]

Sand paper on the screw end and a little locktite ? - once its tight - you mark it just to see if it comes loose ? i can see with so many to do - a few missed - why not just use a small lockwasher and not worry about it ?

if you use locktite etc, - just a little and thats it - but if you ever have to remove that screw - how hard is it to break it loose again - i know it should be hard - but will it be very very hard to break loose again or just a little extra force in the event you need to remove them etc, -

knowing me - i may have it connected wrong etc . and need to rearrange - etc - i am show i will post the pictures here to let you see the pack and tell me what is in the wrong order etc, - i wont tighten anything at that time - just loosely put to make sure i am connecting it correct -

it will be 16 Cells - to make a 24ah - so i think i have an idea but i am sure i am wrong somewhere - so i will post pictures when the time comes - for me pictures are a great help -

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/10/15/ ... ue-242.htm

Blue Loctite 243 not 242. No need to sand. Can be undone with standard hand tools. Red is a no-no. Usually you require heat to break red Loctite.

[Burgerman]

The abrasive was for electrical connectivity. All the surfaces that touch. Not the thread. The Loctite goes there!

[expresso]

Ok - got it - very good way to do it - sand where it comes in contact with the battery - also the ring terminals that will go under some of them - locktite on the screw to keep it there - no lockwashers -

marking to keep track of what you did - and do it again to double check - i like that - better safe and take your time the first time - -

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002U ... _pC_nS_ttl

found this also while searching -

if locktite - i should get the 243 instead of that first one 242 ?

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-1330799-B ... octite+243

[flagman1776]

Do not use RED locktite. Long ago, I used red... way too much red... I couldn't use heat to free it & destroyed the parts removing them with force & violence. I've never made the mistake again.

[Burgerman]

This, for most things. Stronger. But still removable. http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_ ... ue-242.htm

Or for things you want to regularly adjust or take apart 221. Also when fitting bearings.

When neither of these are to hand, I have used a small touchup paint with built in brush... Seems to work fine too.

[LROBBINS]

Instead of sandpaper I suggest using ScotchBrite to clean the metal surfaces. Aluminum oxide (used on wet-or-dry sandpaper) is actually an insulator so even if you don't leave any grit, you may be leaving an insulating film. Ciao, Lenny

[expresso]

i emailed Coolice for the PSU - this is the response i got

very nice they are willing to sell and ship to me - but its may not be worth all the trouble and costs i think - and what if i needed service or warranty issues if any arise - but nice to know he was willing to make it work out if i wanted it -


Hello Claudio.



Thank you for your PSU enquiry.



Sadly I do not have any dealers in the US, however I can make you up a PSU and post out, this does add some additional postage costs which I would find out the final figure for an advise you on before ordering. I would need your full address to do this.

There may be another option that would be a little less expensive if you preferred. I’m guessing you’ve seen the basic protection circuit I sell for use with the iCharger DUO’s and it is this feature that you are after ideally? If this is the case I can send out to you the plug in module, which is lighter than a combined circuit and PSU setup, so will be cheaper. You can then source yourself some PSU’s in the States keeping the postal costs lower, modify one of them and then push my protection circuit on the front of them and you’d be good to go. I can supply some heat shirnk as well and the vinyl graphics so it would look like one of my PSU builds, but you would have had involvement in it.



For comparison the 2400 watt PSU with protection circuit would be £125 gbps + additional postage.

The basic protection circuit on its own would be £39.99 + £8 gbps + the heat shrink which is £5 gbps.



The IceMeter, the protection circuit with LCD display is a little more money and I would work out a price for that if you preferred this type of unit.



Chat soon.



Ian Contessa

[Irving]

PL8 arrived 1pm.. ordered Thursday evening from Singapore. Not bad considering some things take 5 days to get here from a few miles away!

So far no evidence of VAT or import duty....


Coolice PSU IS £107 for 2400W fitted with two parallel EC5 to feed two PL8s in the future.

PL8 + other bits ordered and shipped from Revo Singapore shop... tho fedex tracking shows picked up in Singapore, first stop as GUANGZHOU CN, then KOELN DE and now at ROISSY CHARLES DE GAULLE CEDEX FR... in under 48h. Was scheduled to arrive on 17th, could be sooner

Now at 'Stansted: International shipment release - Import' whatever that means... getting excited. also ordered a coolice 2400W psu for general charging, freeing up the digimess for other uses...

[Burgerman]

If you do get a bill, it follows later by mail.