S646se - Full LITHIUM Pack Project - First Attempt

[expresso]

Electronics solder almost always has a flux core, so even if you don't add a paste or liquid flux (often useful, especially for wires and connectors that have sat around oxidizing for weeks or months) there will be some flux residue left after soldering. On small joints like that, if you solder them correctly as Goose described, the flux really is pretty innocuous, but you can remove it. Some fluxes are water soluble, most are not. For those, you can use an old tooth brush and some denatured alcohol, or, for a quicker job, a spray can of a commercial flux remover (many are toxic and flammable - read the directions).
Ciao,
Lenny

P.S. on some thread here, I don't know which, there are pictures of a DB connector properly soldered. That's what yours should look like. Any roughness on the surface of the solder is a sure indication that the joint was not properly done - it should flow and wet the metal like water that has a bit of detergent in it, no bubbles, no roughness.

yes that would be BM's wire - : ) he did a great job - - after reading what exGoodman wrote - sounds great - i think i can improve if i follow his method - i didnt expect what i did to be of any real life use - i will go at today again - i have a dozen of those cheap connectors to practice on - i hope to be ready for the real thing before i run out of practicing on them - i think the small wires will be easier now - rather than the larger one - but well see -

thanks -

[Burgerman]

Only strip 3mm. Tin it. That will expose more due to heat. Tin all the connector ends. PUSH wire in lightly, heat with clean tinned iron, when it slips in, stop. Dont move the wire. 2 seconds per connection plus cooling.

Iron too hot = all burned and black. Must clean and tin the iron.

The hardest bit isnt soldering. Its getting the wires in the right places because you wouldnt want smoke to come from the charger!

[expresso]

yes makes sense now - i did have the iron on high heat - 450 - will lower it - will Tin the wires - cut them to size - add the solder in the holder for the wire - pin - and try it that way - i have touched the wires with the iron - which burned the wire etc, - i have kept it too long too hot also - i noticed all that when i did it - -

i think today will be a little better i hope - as long as i improve a little at time each time - i be happy - will post back later today when done with pictures - i did clean the tip before i use it - and after i use it - shut it off - till i am ready again -

problem i see also - is like to hold the iron with my right hand - but i feel as if i need to hold it with my left and hold the wire in place while i do it - i try that but then dont feel right with my hands holding etc, - i have the helper thing to hold the wire - but i have to figure out how to hold the connector with something so it dosnt move either - and at the right angle -

will see today what i come up with -

[expresso]

Only strip 3mm. Tin it. That will expose more due to heat. Tin all the connector ends. PUSH wire in lightly, heat with clean tinned iron, when it slips in, stop. Dont move the wire. 2 seconds per connection plus cooling.

Iron too hot = all burned and black. Must clean and tin the iron.

The hardest bit isnt soldering. Its getting the wires in the right places because you wouldnt want smoke to come from the charger!

there is way to test this cable when i done so that wont happen ? i hope so - thats the last thing i want to do

[Burgerman]

Yes. Theres 3 places to go wrong. Battery. Both connectors. After assembly plug it into the cell tester that you have and see what that says... You can test with a multi meter too.

[expresso]

Ok - When i get to that point - i ask again - cross fingers - getting it together to go another round -

[expresso]

Ok - I tired two more times - i dont think its much of an improvement - but here they are - its hard to get the right amount of the flux in the cups either too much or not enough - and makes me have to try to fix it which only makes it worse

you will see some touching etc, - only thing i did ok was tinning the wires first - and cutting them down to size to get them closer -

these pics may be the better of the rest and the first ones i did today - i used two more 25 pin connectors - i have 7 left - 2 a day for rest of week - i hope i improve by then -

[expresso]

more

[expresso]

more

[expresso]

i know its not good - any suggestions - i can try tomorrow - these are the last pics - i did two connectors - - tomorrow maybe i will do just 5 on top and 4 on the bottom the way i would have to do for real - the larger wires - i dont have connector to practice on for those - i am hoping to follow the same steps as i do the small wires -

i am tired now - need a break - its not easy - thats for sure

[Burgerman]

That's good enough. Or close to it.

You do the bigger ones exactly the same. But I suspect you are going to need a bigger iron. I use a 100W instant gun. Its just about right. I have a 150W watt one too, but its LESS good for some reason.

[rover220]

I'd apply solder to the cups first then insert pre tinned wire whilst cups are still liquid.

[expresso]

http://www.amazon.com/Swellder-Connecto ... 4PX352KRYW


wish i could use something like this - just screw it down - -- in the worst case - you could wire to charge on one cable and balance on another ? if you make a Anderson for charging only - Can you use the balance cable - two of them to plug together ?

you would have to plug both in and charge and then unplug - just to make me feel better in worst case - - i do have a backup plan with Scollard helping me along the way - i hate to put more work on someone else if i dont have to - i like to learn and get it right - at least close enough to make it work

in the end - my cable wont look as pretty on the inside as others - i am ok with that - as long as it works !!! - i wont be looking inside once its done -

[Burgerman]

Those cant take enough current. Yes you can do balance and Anderson. But thee way you are doing it is better.

[rover220]

Something like this might be better? Top quality but not cheap though.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=deuts ... Ly5SwwM%3A

[expresso]

how do i fix a mistake when i solder - if i add too much - etc, - i have flux remover - but dont know how to use it - whats the procedure for that ?

thanks

[rover220]

Warm it so it's liquid then I just wipe it off with a damp sponge.

[Burgerman]

If you tin the connectors first. Tin wires second. Then add no more solder... Just heat it and stop. You will not get too much solder.

Small iron tip. Small solder size. Clamp to hold part. +3 diopter READING glasses! LIGHT!

[expresso]

Warm it so it's liquid then I just wipe it off with a damp sponge.

thanks - i will try that next time that happens - i am sure it will -

[expresso]

If you tin the connectors first. Tin wires second. Then add no more solder... Just heat it and stop. You will not get too much solder.

Small iron tip. Small solder size. Clamp to hold part. +3 diopter READING glasses! LIGHT!

Actually thats the way i did it today - the problem i had is adding the solder to the connector first - how do i tin the connector to add the solder there - i was holding the solder up with the end in the cup and using the iron tip to melt the solder down

getting it just right for enough solder and not too much is the trick - is there a better way to add the solder to the counnector first than the way i just did ?

I added the solder to the cups - then i got the wires tinned - cut to size and ready - that was ok - not a problem - and last i hold the wire close and heat the solder to melt it and slide the wire in holding it - i feel it get too much solder on the sides sometimes - and i leave too much on top when i remove the iron - it pulls it up some - if i try to fix it there - i end up making it worse

i am near sighted - so my glasses dont work - and the helper with the maginfing lenses - throws me off i think i am near and i am no where near it

will try making 5 on top and 4 on the bottom tomorrow and see how that works out - then i can practice with the rest of the empty cups anyway - why waste it -

they dont have connectors that can crimp on - even if its not that one - nothing that can hold the current ? that would be so much easier for me -

[expresso]

you know - i am using the Tip that it come with - - here is the Tip i been using - and the extra ones i have - i changed the tip to the only one i think is just a bit smaller - same shape -

out of the tips i have - which should i try ?

[expresso]

i changed it this one - ?

[rover220]

I think you'd be better with a flatter wider tip

[expresso]

in the first picture - theres 5 tips - which one you think out of those - ?

[Burgerman]

the one that's in...

[expresso]

ok will leave it and try that one - i thin i will try it the oppisite way as i did today - today - i held the solder up with the tip down in the connector and used the iron on the other side - - tomorrow - i will hold the iron tip down in the connector and use the solder on the other side to let it melt in the cup -

might work better maybe - how do you add the solder in the cup ? do you heat the cup only and then just touch the solder on it - without the iron there any more ? i am sure i am not doing it the best way it can be done -

tinning the wires and cutting them to size first - is great - that works - now its getting the solder in the cup is the harder part before adding the wire -

[expresso]

the one that's in...

you mean the one thats in there now - new one - ? not the first one i used

[Burgerman]

Thin pointy one. download/file.php?id=4592&mode=view

But I am not you. And cant tell how big. Use one that isn't too big that allows you to see what you are doing. And a big one if you try to solder the big wires. It has thermal mass.

[LROBBINS]

"Tinning" is just applying a thin coat of solder. I like to work with very thin solder, mostly because I do a lot of surface mount circuit boards and tiny, crammed through hole boards. But I use it for everything, including Andersons - it's pretty ridiculous for that, but it means I keep only 1 spool in the shop. It is harder to overdo it using thin solder.

Don't put the solder in the cup, and don't put the iron in the cup. Let your iron heat up, make sure the tip is clean, and then tin the tip and wipe any excess off (wet sponge or brass or stainless mesh - I use stainless thing meant for cleaning pots). Then, heat the cup with the iron on the side of it and just touch the solder into the hot cup. If the solder doesn't flow as soon as it touches the cup, the cup isn't hot enough yet - pull the solder away, heat a few more seconds and touch again. Don't fill the cup more than 1/2 full, but a lot less is enough too. If you use thin solder, you can always add more later if you need to.

Strip the wires as you're now doing and then tin them. Hold your hot, clean, tinned iron tip to the wire. After you think it's hot enough, just touch the solder to the hot wire, or, especially for heavier wires, to where the wire and iron are in contact so that a little liquid solder helps transmit the heat from the iron to the wire. If the solder doesn't flow instantly into the wire, the wire's not hot enough yet. Pull it away, wait a moment and try again. You want just enough solder to wet the wire, definitely not a glob. If you melt too much, you can shake the excess off while the wire's still hot. The individual strands will still be distinct in a tinned multi-strand wire. You might want a little bit more than that, but just a little bit more; just enough to fill the space between the strands.

There are many ways to remove excess solder: (1) a damp sponge, (2) a "solder sucker" - a kind of reverse syringe with a spring - push the plunger all the way in, put the tip against the hot joint and push the button to suck up the excess, (3) solder wick - a fine copper braid impregnated with flux that you touch to the place you want to clean up and then heat with your hot iron - mostly useful for very small things like circuit board pads, or removing solder bridges between the pins of a surface mount IC. I mostly use a solder sucker or wick depending on size and access, but try to not to need either except for re-work (taking off parts and changing circuitry).

Ciao,
Lenny

[expresso]

Thin pointy one. download/file.php?id=4592&mode=view

But I am not you. And cant tell how big. Use one that isn't too big that allows you to see what you are doing. And a big one if you try to solder the big wires. It has thermal mass.

OK - the big wire i will have to do when i make the real one - and hope it works out - dont have anything to practice with for the big wires - i can just practice tinning some maybe -