Com port not working ?

[Burgerman]

Or heres the complete folder.

Zipped.

Put this folder on your desktop. Run it from there...

www.wheelchairdriver.com/software/FMA.zip

[expresso]

thanks BM will try that tomorrow on the desktop

[expresso]

Now since i did the Win 10 install etc, - my front two USB 3.0 ports are flaky -

they dont seem to work if i plug something in them when i am in windows already - it dosnt show up - but if i reboot with the usb in those ports - it shows up - but if i remove them and then plug them back in - it dosnt show up -

only show up if they are already in those ports during a boot up or restart etc, -

the same item works fine in the 2.0 ports - this is only the front 2 USB 3.0 ports that are directly connected to the MB -

so far i noticed that - and maybe one other item thats not fully working properly - its my Antec cooler Grid software - its connected on the board also - using the Prolific drivers - gives me control of my Cooler Fans etc, -

it normally starts on its own - but its been just hanging - so i close it down and leave it - still works fine cooling and i dont raise the fan speeds - its on silent but they ramp up if needed anyway

the front USB ports i would like to be working all the time - maybe it fixes itself over time -

[steves1977uk]

Try plugging the front USB ports into the USB 2.0 Headers on the motherboard. Does the front USB ports have a blue plastic bit in them? If not then they're most likely USB 2.0 ports.

Steve

[Burgerman]

the same item works fine in the 2.0 ports - this is only the front 2 USB 3.0 ports that are directly connected to the MB -

Depending on the chip it can be the manufacturers drivers, or rather their default driver SLEEP settings, or windows sleep settings. Many thing suck power from USBs and on USB 3 it can be a lot. Many drivers, bios setting choices for USB, and windows settings too can control if it does this over time, if not used, if no data transfered, if just used for charging where 5V stays on and port goes to sleep with PC or wake on data, etc etc. Many possibilities. With control comes responsibility! And fine tuning options.

And as steve says they could be USB3 ports connected to USB2 headers... Depends if the builder knew what he was doing, and if its all configured correctly.

so far i noticed that - and maybe one other item thats not fully working properly - its my Antec cooler Grid software - its connected on the board also - using the Prolific drivers - gives me control of my Cooler Fans etc, -

This just does what the bios can do more efficiently. And again its another uneeded layer of junk that isnt required. Suggest if you really think you need it, look for a new version that works with 10, or is bug fixed, and that you properly check that its not configured to conflict with windows/bios temp/throttling/fan speed control that the operating system and board already does (better).

it normally starts on its own - but its been just hanging - so i close it down and leave it - still works fine cooling and i dont raise the fan speeds - its on silent but they ramp up if needed anyway

Yes windows/bios is designed to throttle the CPU cores, multiplier, halt states, voltages and chipset voltages/speeds as well as fan rpms based on temperatures to best possible affect for performance as well as power usage and noise. Why try to mess it up with crappy fan controller software? Its trying to fight the board/windows!

the front USB ports i would like to be working all the time - maybe it fixes itself over time -

No it wont. If you are building your own PCs, and configuring and setting them up correctly then its your job! You want it to work properly they you have to figure out what is causing the problem.

Or buy a decent quality HP workstation/server or a business class Dell workstation. All done for you. Their thorougly tested components/drivers/configurations. And price!

[steves1977uk]

Antec Grid software... http://antec.com/product.php?id=706544&pid=58&lan=nz Looks like it was updated last year, so should be compatible with Windows 10, if this is the cooler you have expresso.

Steve

[Burgerman]

Note:

UNINSTALL the old version FIRST then reboot, check bios settings dont conflict with it, or your USBs ect and also in windows power saving details. And power saving in USB settings in device damager...

Then install the new. In that order! But really what does it do?

[steves1977uk]

The only software I use for fan control is Speedfan, even then I only use it to control the fan on my graphics card since it's default BIOS fan profile is way too slow and it heats up pretty quickly under load. I want to replace its fan/heatsink but haven't seen any aftermarket product for it. The card in question is an AMD FirePro W5000.

Steve

[Burgerman]

https://www.scan.co.uk/products/4gb-gigabyte-geforce-gtx-970-windforce-3-oc-pcie-30-7010mhz-gddr5-gpu-1114mhz-boost-1278mhz-cores-16

I use one of these. It doesent even get warm. Cant hear it. Dont play games but I do use a photo realistic flight sim, that allows me to build my own models and see how they fly... Have even considered removing the fans. Heat sink alone with case flow should be adequate.

[steves1977uk]

That card would be ok if I had a longer case. I tend to try and stick to a single slot type card. I do have a Radeon 7850 in a single slot form, but it doesn't work in this PC that I use daily. When my Brother plugs it in and connect its power, turn on the PC and get 5 beeps meaning graphics card not detected. But that same card works in another PC just fine. So it must be a BIOS incompatibility between the two.

Steve

[expresso]

the cooler is the antec 950 - the Grid software is for the cooler fan only - the rest of my fans are on a fan controller which is not the problem - thats working fine

its only the Grid software thats not fully loading at startup - its a fresh install -- there was no older version installed -

i can reinstall again after i uninstall

the USB ports are 3.0 ports - connected to the MB which always worked before the upgrade to Win 10 - nothing was touched or removed from the MB

they are NOT in the 2.0 ports on the MB - this just started after i went to Win 10

its not a big deal for me - i can deal with it - my card is a simple geforce 750tx - nothing special - i dont game - just much better than stock intel graphics -

[Burgerman]

the USB ports are 3.0 ports - connected to the MB which always worked before the upgrade to Win 10 - nothing was touched or removed from the MB

You reset the bios and power saving options, and USB settings like support for older devices affect this, and in windows too, the drivers have all sorts of sleep, or power save settings in device manager, and also in windows power saving. And your motherboard may need its updated chipset, USB, and hard disk controller drivers downloading from the manufacturer to replace the generic windows ones for 1, or a bios update for 10... So 101 possibilities!

[expresso]

the USB ports are 3.0 ports - connected to the MB which always worked before the upgrade to Win 10 - nothing was touched or removed from the MB

You reset the bios and power saving options, and USB settings like support for older devices affect this, and in windows too, the drivers have all sorts of sleep, or power save settings in device manager, and also in windows power saving. And your motherboard may need its updated chipset, USB, and hard disk controller drivers downloading from the manufacturer to replace the generic windows ones for 1, or a bios update for 10... So 101 possibilities!

true - i can double check bios - but i think thats fine - for usb in its default settings which i went back in to adjust for my OC the way it was before - i have tried the chipset drivers from the MB site - Gigabyte - for Win 10

i am not going to stress it - i will try it again - the drivers and double check bios - and by the way - now the Antec Grid loaded just fine - - its always hit and miss - it loads fine - and sometimes it dosnt - who knows - maybe Bill Gates does

anyway i seen a tour of his home a while back -- its amazing - i have to say - -

[Burgerman]

and by the way - now the Antec Grid loaded just fine - - its always hit and miss - it loads fine - and sometimes it dosnt - who knows

The ones and zeros dont change. Or shouldnt. So it will either load correctly, or not, every time. Unless your overclock is causing corruption... How much testing do you do? You must run something like prime95 for 24 hours, one instance for each thread so 8 of them simultaniously. To check for errors and corruption. Then go back a step to be sure.

[snaker]

I am dropping into expresso's situation too. The Device Manager shows the usb driver installed but the cable is unrecognized. This is the first time I touch the programming cable. I just plug it into the PC. Did I miss something? Do I need to config anything on PC to make the cable work?

[steves1977uk]

Is your lead a P&G one? Which drivers are you using snaker?

Steve

[Burgerman]

All of these serial/usb things are a massive pain in the backside. They are extremely hit and miss. And must have everything configured correctly to work at all. If they do. Its not only these cables but all kinds of things.

[steves1977uk]

the USB ports are 3.0 ports - connected to the MB which always worked before the upgrade to Win 10 - nothing was touched or removed from the MB

You reset the bios and power saving options, and USB settings like support for older devices affect this, and in windows too, the drivers have all sorts of sleep, or power save settings in device manager, and also in windows power saving. And your motherboard may need its updated chipset, USB, and hard disk controller drivers downloading from the manufacturer to replace the generic windows ones for 1, or a bios update for 10... So 101 possibilities!

true - i can double check bios - but i think thats fine - for usb in its default settings which i went back in to adjust for my OC the way it was before - i have tried the chipset drivers from the MB site - Gigabyte - for Win 10

i am not going to stress it - i will try it again - the drivers and double check bios - and by the way - now the Antec Grid loaded just fine - - its always hit and miss - it loads fine - and sometimes it dosnt - who knows - maybe Bill Gates does

anyway i seen a tour of his home a while back -- its amazing - i have to say - -

Also make sure you flash the latest BIOS for your board expresso as BM say above. I even update the IRST components, CPU microcode and several others by using this tool... http://www.win-raid.com/t154f16-Tool-Gu ... t-UBU.html

Then flash the bios using AMI Flash Updater (AFUWINGUI). This make sure all software components within the BIOS are the latest.

Steve

[snaker]

- The cable is PG lead. woodygb just sent it to me 3 weeks ago.
- My mainboard is Asus P8H77-V and I just updated its latest BIOS a month ago.
- USB driver version is 2.12.16.0.
- Programing software version is 9.8.2 (I installed both dealer and manufacturer versions). I set COM port to 3 in Tool > Comms menu.
- OS: Windows 10 64bit

I tested the cable on a PC and a laptop. The same problem occurs.

Did I miss something. I note that my PC and laptop are clean. My job is a developer, my machines must be always clean.

[Burgerman]

try different USB ports and serial 1 through 8 restarting everything each time.

[steves1977uk]

USB ports/devices at the best of times are flaky.

Steve

[expresso]

and by the way - now the Antec Grid loaded just fine - - its always hit and miss - it loads fine - and sometimes it dosnt - who knows

The ones and zeros dont change. Or shouldnt. So it will either load correctly, or not, every time. Unless your overclock is causing corruption... How much testing do you do? You must run something like prime95 for 24 hours, one instance for each thread so 8 of them simultaniously. To check for errors and corruption. Then go back a step to be sure.

it works fine today - i just booted up and its fine - like i said - this just started with the Win 10 - My MB drivers etc, are limited for Win 10 - My OC was tested when i first did it - using Prime and other programs for stress testing and was fine then -

i never did like th bios to begin with - it was always a bit flaky - i am using the latest bios that tested - not the beta ones - there are two of them - i dont see a need to try to flash it - system works fine if not better than before

just the front USB ports - which worked yesterday fine - and my Grid software was fine today - those are the only two i notice that have changed how they behave - there may be more things as i use it more - but i am not going to stress everything i run into - only if its important to me - like the Cable etc, - or PL 8 program -

the cable now works from Woodies - PL 8 program have to be careful - it will ask to update it - dont - or else you may end up using the new one that dosnt work

[expresso]

USB ports/devices at the best of times are flaky.

Steve

And they shouldnt be - they only be around for 50 years - about time they should just work dont you think

[expresso]

I am dropping into expresso's situation too. The Device Manager shows the usb driver installed but the cable is unrecognized. This is the first time I touch the programming cable. I just plug it into the PC. Did I miss something? Do I need to config anything on PC to make the cable work?

Good luck with that - if its the same issue i was having - mines never did work again - it had nothing to do with the computer etc, - it was the cable - my case - Got a new Cable and done - its working now - i didnt have to do anything other than plug in the new cable - start the program - pick the correct port - plug it in the chair - turn on the chair - works -

I hope it stays that way now -

[Burgerman]

You dont know that. It could still have been your configuration... Or the cable switched "off" by the driver that finds fake chips.

Seems to me that every time a member of my hobby club cant get one of these damned serial/usb adapters to work, I always can... It almost always is them.

[expresso]

You dont know that. It could still have been your configuration... Or the cable switched "off" by the driver that finds fake chips.

Seems to me that every time a member of my hobby club cant get one of these damned serial/usb adapters to work, I always can... It almost always is them.

thats some what true - but dont think it was the configuration - most likely the fake chip thing - or it just happen to crap out - i didnt reconfig anything before or after - and it works now with the new cable -

i still have the old serial adaptor - i just dont even want to play around with that now - in case it ruins my working cable setup - then it would be a config. driver issue -

i ran that program before - Mprog i think its called from the FDTI website - from the video - to change the chip ID back etc, - but i noticed before i ran - that the ID was correct - i did it anyway - - and nothing fixed it for me -

simple new cable fixed it - works - i used it 3 times now the new cable - once on the Qtronix - and twice on the pilot plus - which i tried a lower motor comp. and not sure i liked it - didnt lock the motors fast enough on the hills

if thats what motor comp does - so on a hill - i let go of joystick and chair rolled back a bit before stopping - i like it to lock up and stop sooner - also the front wheel drive section which not sure what it does or dosnt do -

i didnt like how it handled - i put it back to the way it was ever since i ever had a chair - - my speed and other settings are not affected so dont see any real reason to change that or benefit -

[Burgerman]

Motor compensation works both ways. It adds power as the motor amps increase on acceleration OR deceleration. Or on a threshold etc.

[expresso]

Motor compensation works both ways. It adds power as the motor amps increase on acceleration OR deceleration. Or on a threshold etc.

A lower number - gives me more roll back on hill etc, - the motors dont lock fast enough after you let go of the joystick - i guess the brakes etc, - but is smoother overall - other than that issue -

higher number - can be too jerkly and jumpy - not as smooth to handle in slower speeds - etc, - i left it at 40 for now - will see how i feel when riding again - hopefully gets warmer soon - this is the pilot plus chair 4 pole

i have to say my old chair with 2 pole - does feel smooth to use around in the house better than my 4 pole -

now the newer R net with 4 pole is smooth also - better than the pilot plus 4 pole motors - that came set at 30 which is now at 40 but havnt used that chair yet since i changed it - will have to pay attention to the hills and how it reacts -

both chairs now and adjust to my liking

[Burgerman]

Set it off. Or super low like 10. TEST.
Thats how you get a real feel for what it does.
Try turning. Try moving with small stick movements. Try slowing.

It has NOTHING to do with the brake. That only comes on only after you stop. Its confusing you because slowing takes too long and you roll on... Its motor LOAD compensation.

Dont try setting higher than 40... You may fall out or crash uncontrollably.

[expresso]

Set it off. Or super low like 10. TEST.
Thats how you get a real feel for what it does.
Try turning. Try moving with small stick movements. Try slowing.

It has NOTHING to do with the brake. That only comes on only after you stop. Its confusing you because slowing takes too long and you roll on... Its motor LOAD compensation.

Dont try setting higher than 40... You may fall out or crash uncontrollably.

Nah - i rode it already in the home this way - first off - the Pilot plus chair - was set from factory at 65 - 4 pole motors - no wonder it was a bunking bronco - hard to use on slow low speeds and indoors that way - only worked best at full speed -

thats the chair i put to 40 now - and its much smoother to move it around indoors now compared to be before -

The Rnet - was at 30 - now its at 40 just to see how i like it - seat belt on for sure - normally i dont use one in the house - unless i am testing it inside hall way etc, -