PSU - Info

[steves1977uk]

There are 1 or 2 who sell modified units @£60.00 .

Full modification for a .

I'd go for that! With the original case.

Steve

[Gnomatic]

There are 1 or 2 who sell modified units @£60.00 .

Full modification for a .

shirley if you can ship to the US, I'd like one of these as well! 60v out, with the fancy case mod.

Let know how'd you'd like me to send payment, if you can / are willing to do it.

[Gnomatic]

Of course, being in the US, I'll need to grab a 110V AC to 220V AC step up converter to run the power supply. But that's not big deal.

[Burgerman]

They do 110 to 240 and50 and 60 cycles AC as far as I know.

Most stuff we buy in the EU or china does both. Often without even needing a switch. Because nobody knows where it will end up!
In the US you normally get 100 to 130V stuff as 240 is rare? As far as I know.

[shirley_hkg]

Of course, being in the US, I'll need to grab a 110V AC to 220V AC step up converter to run the power supply. But that's not big deal.

A 3Kw step-up transformer will cost a fortune. Not worth it anymore !

However , it does say 110-240V 50/60Hz already , doesn't it ?

[shirley_hkg]

shirley if you can ship to the US, I'd like one of these as well! 60v out, with the fancy case mod.

Yes , I'll ship worldwide .

The fency outfit is developed by an enthusiast , and is being sold separately .

You have to put it up yourselves , and may need to do certain re-wiring too .

Think twice .

[shirley_hkg]

Running @117V , power will be cut by half . That is the output current will be limited to 50% of what the constant current being set .

That's said , the seller .

[Burgerman]

The rewiring isnt a problem for me.
I would like the mod done, and will swap case myself.
Whenever you want I can pay!
Thanks.

[shirley_hkg]

The rewiring isnt a problem for me.
I would like the mod done, and will swap case myself.

Thanks.

Always as expected . Roger.

[Gnomatic]

They do 110 to 240 and50 and 60 cycles AC as far as I know.

Most stuff we buy in the EU or china does both. Often without even needing a switch. Because nobody knows where it will end up!

Even better!

However , it does say 110-240V 50/60Hz already , doesn't it ?

You are correct, it does say that!

[Gnomatic]

Running @117V , power will be cut by half . That is the output current will be limited to 50% of what the constant current being set .

That's said , the seller .

I appreciate the heads up and the warnings. That said, I'd still like to buy one.

Let me know the amount and the best way to send you payment.

Thanks!

[shirley_hkg]

And that fency new case too ?

[Burgerman]

I thought that the US was 230v in some places? And gradually changing to this.

It allows higher powered stuff like 3kw heaters, 10kw shower, heaters, kettles, ovens, hobs, washing machines, 3kw dryers, etc and cheaper to install as thinner cables are needed for same appliances. Less voltage drop in the cables from a transformer etc. And if electric cars become common as they will its going to be pretty much essential. Yes it hurts more when you touch it.

On my bench for eg I have a pair of 1200w output (1500w input) power supplies, a PC, a 3kw heater plugged in (its snowing!) and a multitude of low power things like wheelchair chargers and lath, pillar drill, etc. All on a pair of wall sockets with multi adapters. Total allowed plug in load technically in this room on a single "ring" is 30A at 240V so 7.2kw.

[LROBBINS]

Most in-house wiring in the U.S. is nominal 110, 60 Hz with 14ga wire for 15 amp branches or 12 ga. wire for 20 amp branches, but the service entry is 220 single phase and 220 V is used for large-drain appliances - electric clothes dryer (dedicate 220 V, 30 A outlet), electric range & stove top (dedicated 220V, 60A outlet) electric baseboard or radiant heaters (hardwired, a lot installed in the 1950's when "all electric" homes were the rage). It has been thus for many decades. 220V three-phase is available for industrial uses, and 440 3-phase for larger industrial installations.

[Burgerman]

How do they get 110 from single phase 220V? Or is the 220 actually 2 phases? And 110v is N plus a phase? Or they would need twice as many cables into the house.

It should be simple then to run a set of cables and breakers for EU or UK style sockets at 240V for big tools, heaters, power supplies, etc. Makes you wonder why they would want 110 as well. Just gives more room for errors...

[LROBBINS]

Of course the 220 has 2 opposite phases, but not 3. The 220 consists of 3 wires: 110 - neutral - 110 and thus the 110 power lines, if equally divided among the house's circuits, are balanced around ground reducing noise. With the unbalanced ground that we have here (and I assume in England) different houses are on opposite phases. If those different residences are drawing equally from the 2 phases, all OK, but it's not always thus so there is often noticeable 50Hz on the neutral wire. Rachi sleeps on an electrically-heated water bed and at times one can even feel a 50 Hz tingling of her skin, even more so when we had a rented place outside city limits with few other dwellings nearby.

[Burgerman]

Theres 9V AC on my neutral here in my room measured a few days ago with respect to ground. And its a non sine, funny shaped waveform distorted slightly by my solar system sticking 2kw into the ring I presume...

Here, mostly a street gets a phase, and a neutral. And the next street gets another, and a third street gets the next phase. The neutral is actually connected to ground at the sub station. And various other places. On an industrial estate every building gets 3 phases. So for eg my large kilns used for firing bathroom equipment sanitaryware in bulk, used 3 phase either star, delta, or both depending on what you needed. So 415/440V between phases. And all the lights, power sockets just get a phase and a neutral. So 240V.

For what its worth a single phase may be 240V here. But its not really! Its 360V peak. So 720V peak to peak. Thats why it hurts.

[Gnomatic]

And that fency new case too ?

Yes, I'd like one that comes with the nice case already installed.

[Burgerman]

None do. Its seperate, you swap it later.

[ex-Gooserider]

What comes down the street from the power company depends on the neighborhood and the sort of draw that they expect - but essentially you will have high voltage wiring, typically 400-1000V, and 1-3 phases, none of which really matters to normal users since they never get near it.

Our main distribution system is based on 3-phase power, with three phases that are 60* apart. The voltage varies depending where in the distribution network you look at, with main trunk lines being very high voltages, getting stepped down to lower values as you get closer to the customers.

High power demand industrial type users will get all three phases, usually 220V or for the real heavy hitters, 440V per phase, which gets hooked up to industrial power tools like milling machines, and manufacturing equipment. Then there will also be systems to break everything down and distribute it to the usual 110V outlets and lighting, etc. that get used for everything else.

In single family neighborhoods there will be transformers every couple of houses that look like garbage-cans hanging on the poles. In apartment houses and so on, the high voltage wiring will go into the building and power a transformer and distribution wiring in a closet somewhere, but same basic deal.

The transformer takes the high voltage and chops it to 220V. It is in effect a 'center-tap' style transformer, so you have 220V across the outside terminals and 110V between either outside terminal and the center tap (which is tied to ground). So you end up with the two 110V 'hot' lines (AKA 'legs') and the center-tap neutral... The 110V lines are 180* out of phase with each other, but on a larger scale are considered to be a single phase of the main 3-phase power system.

So the standard outlet in the US is 110V, with a wide (lengthwise) flat slot hole, connected to white wire, that is 'neutral', a slightly narrower flat slot connected to ONE of the two black 110V hot wires, and a small round hole that connects to the Green 'safety ground' wiring. (colors specified by electrical code) The Neutral and safety ground wires are supposed to be tied together at the service entrance (main electrical panel) and nowhere else.

There is hopefully NEVER any current flowing on the green safety wiring, it is there only to provide a safe path to ground if something shorts. (Any exposed metal bits are supposed to be connected to the safety ground, so a hot wire connecting improperly will short to ground and blow the fuse...)

As Lenny mentioned, heavy draw appliances (that almost by definition are non-portable) will have dedicated 220V outlets that will (at a minimum) have the two 110V hots, and a safety ground, but no neutral, Some appliances may also have 110V bits as well, like the clock on the electric stove, and for those you will have a neutral wire that is only connected to the 110V bits.

The distribution of where the two 110V lines go in a house is moderately complex, and dictated by electrical code, but basically amounts to trying to keep the load on the two 'legs' as equal as possible, and also making it difficult to have electrical equipment that is connected to different legs sitting next to each other...

How do they get 110 from single phase 220V? Or is the 220 actually 2 phases? And 110v is N plus a phase? Or they would need twice as many cables into the house.

It should be simple then to run a set of cables and breakers for EU or UK style sockets at 240V for big tools, heaters, power supplies, etc. Makes you wonder why they would want 110 as well. Just gives more room for errors...

[Gnomatic]

None do. Its seperate, you swap it later.

Did I read this wrong?

There are 1 or 2 who sell modified units @£60.00 .

Full modification for a .

What am I missing here?

[Burgerman]

Theres 3 things.

Power supply. Not adjustable.
Modification kit so its adjustable. Neeeds to be fitted but can be done for you.
Fancy case. You fit...

[shirley_hkg]

Yes , you gonna receive one of these 0-60V / 0-50A psu completed .

[shirley_hkg]

And a kit set of the fency outfit .

[Burgerman]

Perfect.

[Burgerman]

For those that dont know.

The rear connections are for high Amps. The front connectors up to about 20A as they wont like more and may melt. Adding a Anderson 50 to the rear of the fancy case makes much more sense for high power. Easy enough, and 2 screws. Add 2 so you can connect more than 1 charger. Or a charger and an extra long cable so you can charge a chair at 40 or 50A directly without a charger needed.

And the power supply is floating or isolated. Meaning the output is not tied to ground/earth. Which means you can connect it to anything safely, or in series etc.

For use with PL8 I suggest setting it to never exceed 30V (possibly with a switch + resistor so we never get smoke by mistake). Or just be careful! You dont want it wound up to 60V and turn on by mistake. Or charger...

The green connector is Ground, tied to the wall plugs earth and the metal chassis. So dont use it other than for measuring tools to find voltage compared to ground or to ground a chassis on something. Especially dont use it if something is connected to USB or a computer. Or PC

May also save your bacon one day if you add a 20A fuse for front plus terminal, and a 50A fuse to the rear Anderson connector if you fit one too. And a 12.5A one on the UK version for mains power. Preferably ones that can be swapped without dissasembly. Like say 2 of these on the rear panel for the high amps outputs:



OR... Takes less space:



And one of these for the AC IN, 10, 12.5, or 15A versions:



Then connecting a battery in reverse, power surges, wrong settings, etc are less likely to destroy anything.

[Gnomatic]

None do. Its seperate, you swap it later.

Okay I see.

[Gnomatic]

Yes , you gonna receive one of these 0-60V / 0-50A psu completed .

And a kit set of the fency outfit .

That sounds good to me!

[shirley_hkg]

Anything else you guys thought of ?
It's checkout time .

[Burgerman]

Nope. All good.