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Rechargeable
AA batteries actually tested! How do they compare?
These AA batteries are used in thousands of modern
consumer gadgets. How do they stack up against each other?
Which
ones are best for which jobs, and do they actually have the capacity stated on
the label?
Detailed Menu of Everything else HERE!
AA batteries - Larger |
AA
batteries - much larger!
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To begin with I will explain two of the big
failings of rechargeable AA batteries.
a) They "self discharge" even sat on the shelf,
rapidly! After a week or so they are often 10 to 20
percent discharged depending on manufacturer and temperatures etc. After a month
sat in your camera they may be half dead even if you never turn it on.
Some do this much more than others. But ALL normal Nickel Metal
Hydride AA batteries do it to an annoying degree. If its in a heavily used device
that is recharged often
it doesn't matter and you never really notice. There are newer versions available
that can sit on the shelf for up to a year and these are very useful for things
that you don't use often. Like a torch, or can be used in clocks, TV remotes
etc. Things that usually make batteries last a long time. These are sold as
ready to use or pre charged rechargeable batteries.
A "Normal" rechargeable cannot sensibly be used like this as
it will go dead before it should. Like a few weeks only before the TV remote
fails to work properly... Or the clock stops. These newer batteries sold as
"ready to use" don't suffer this problem. A common well known make is the "Enerloop battery". See
photo above. Or Duracell Active Charge sold as ready to use. These types
of rechargeable battery are typically 20 percent smaller in storage capacity.
But probably still have more actually left in them when you decide to use your
gadget!
b) Rechargeable
batteries seldom actually contain the "capacity"
(or size of fuel tank)
written on the side. Its all marketing. Even well
known brands lie! Or at least measure a selected cell under ideal conditions
by discharging it very slowly and
round it up to the nearest digit! This is the only way to get the "maximum"
capacity out. Our gadgets don't do this though! So I test at a rate of 1 amp
(about half C rating) as it is typical of real world usage.
A 2700mAh battery for e.g. may not really last as long as a
cheaper 2200mAh one. That's why I measure and graph them carefully during
a controlled discharge with a special "charger" and a PC designed to
accurately measure this and other data.
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This page will get longer as I acquire more cells to test. If
you are a supplier or manufacturer and have any cells to submit email me for
details and send me four cells... They must be AA's and in manufacturers
packaging and new. Any size or type and any capacity.
I intend to do the same with NON
rechargeable AA batteries on a different page.
And test their recharge capabilities at the same time.
You may be surprised! I have been testing and cycling a
number of Alkaline AA batteries with reasonably good success even though it says it will
explode and kill you and burn the house down if you try. But you do have to be
careful.
RESULTS!
Battery Tested = manufacturer and any other detail
Capacity claimed = Amp hours as written on the
battery. E.G. 2200 mAh
Capacity Measured = Amp hours (down to 0.6v at
roughly 0.5C or around 1 amp)
Note, this is a fast discharge rate that will better reflect the use of digital
cameras etc. It will show the difference between good and bad batteries much
more clearly. But means that the claimed figure will never likely be achieved.
The difference is caused by Internal resistance (next!)
Internal resistance =
average during full discharge cycle. Less (lower) is ALWAYS better here.
Especially for devices that consume lots of power fast! I take at LEAST as
much notice of this as I do capacity.
There is MUCH more to
batteries than capacity (or claimed capacity).
Battery Tested
After 3 full cycles and charged by peak
detect method and charge termination
verified
visually by graph. |
Capacity
claimed
m-Amp hours
Figure on the side of
the battery! |
Capacity Measured
m-Amp hours
Terminated at 0.6v per cell and at 1000ma discharge rate
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Internal. Resistance
(m-Ohms)
Average over complete discharge cycle |
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Uniross 2700 AA
Use for high capacity and
medium / low current draw and quick use/recharge.
|
2700 |
2258 |
172 |
Uniross 2300 AA
Use for medium / high capacity and
high or low current draw and quick use/recharge. |
2300 |
1736 |
95 |
Enerloop 2000
AA
(very low self discharge long charged shelf
life)
Graph here
(Pack of four tested in series)
Use
for medium capacity and high current draw AND long term items.
|
2000 |
1822 |
95
Good for high current devices like cameras and flash guns |
Vapextech 2200 AA
Graph
Use
for medium capacity and low current draw or short term often recharged
items. |
2200 |
1444
Not brilliant!
(several tested) |
226
High... |
Extreme 2200 AA
(very low self discharge long charged shelf
life)
(commonly found on eBay etc) Sold as ready to use and
long stand by and slow discharge. I had 2 out of 8 cells faulty however.
As long as all of yours are OK they are fine but not quite the claimed
capacity. Compare to branded batteries like Enerloop or Duracell Active.
|
2200 |
1672 |
90
Good for high current devices like cameras and flash guns
etc. |
Duracell (Active Charge) Rechargeable
(very low self discharge long charged shelf
life)
Graph
Tested as a series pack of 4 cells.
Sold as charged & ready to
use. Each cell measured 1.328v on opening the pack so very well balanced
and closer to fully charged than the rest here (so far!) which were in
some cases nearly half discharged as they were purchased. Best
battery tested so far. If only just! The Enerloop's are almost
identical!
|
2000 |
1848 |
77
Best yet, ideal for cameras, motors and things that are power hungry. |
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MUCH MORE TO FOLLOW Testing takes
about a day per battery! |
Summary so far...
Non of the batteries get close to their rated amp hour (in mAh as written on
the side). The ones that get closest are the ones that a) don't make wild
claims and more importantly b) the ones that are of low internal resistance.
Since we are discharging them at 1000ma which is in under 2 hours. Would
buy the "name brand" ready charged slow self discharge 2000mah batteries here
(Enerloop, Duracell Active) over the 2700 or bigger capacity batteries since
they perform better in high drain devices, while at the same time keeping their
charge for months to a year without naturally discharging themselves. But that
was what I expected anyway... Nice to see that in the real results though!
Below just some pics of how I do this.

Charger/Battery tester and analyser above was connected to my Computer and used
to graph the batteries on the to give the data in the table.

Bigger
This is the graph from the 4 Duracell Active rechargeable cells. In a series
pack. These were 2000mAh and long life (low self discharge) batteries. They are
very good batteries for fast discharge stuff like cameras too. Recommended along
with the very similar Enerloop batteries.

How we know they are charged! A constant
current is applied and the charger watches the voltage slowly rise over time. It
charges for 50 seconds and then stops for ten repeatedly. It cuts off the charge
when it sees the voltage is no longer rising, and actually begins to fall.
Bigger
When it stops for ten seconds the true battery
voltage is read. the difference between the on charge voltage and the off charge
voltage allows the resistance of the battery to be calculated by the charger
too..
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